17 July 2021, 06:35 | #1 |
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Gotek LCD went dark
Not sure what happened but my LCD on the Gotek went dark. It was working until yesterday, and today just didn't want to turn on.
Same for the red LED on the Gotek; the green works just fine and flash when reading a file. Everything seems to work fine, except that red LED and the LCD. I made a mod to use one of the larger OLED screen; and it has been working for more than a year without problems. I thought I burned the LCD, so I tried another one and it does not work either (verified it on my arduino and it works fine); so I guess the Gotek is at fault here? Did anyone experience anything similar? |
18 July 2021, 23:33 | #2 |
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I think I found the issue; the power LED legs are shortening something; when I move the LED the LCD screen goes blank or show garbage graphics. I am probably going to insulate the legs of the LED and see if that matter, or maybe something else on the actual Gotek board is wrong; can't say.
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18 July 2021, 23:48 | #3 |
Ruler of the Universe
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Sorry to be a bit offtopic, buy seeing the latest programs available for the miggy that can open an adf file just like a real floppy (you can see how amazing it can be for example installing OS3.2), just like the Gotek does, I'm wondering why to install a Gotek now.
Well, in fact I installed time ago a CD drive in my A1200 and now it's completely unnecessary with the software available to mount an iso image. I recently saw another program to mount a hdf file or an iso one.... Amazing what you can do with software instead of hardware. |
19 July 2021, 06:22 | #4 | |
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Yes, your point is legit, but let me bring up few counters on that approach: - 3.2 does support ADF and ISO; you need to shed 60 dollars plus the roms to get that. While most amiga users throw hundreds to upgrade their machine, that is yet another cost on top of everything else. - You can mount ADF and ISO even in 3.1; there are ways to do that from Aminet, but it require an upgraded Amiga; you can't do that with a vanilla one, since there is not enough memory to operate smoothly. - You cannot boot ADF without a gotek; so any game that is not on WHDLoad won't run - Having a physical device with no moving part is the best of both worlds, and yet people still use floppy and CD drives for sentimental reasons or to keep the machine "true to the original". Same goes for CD and ADF; it depends from what each person wants. Technically you can emulate the whole amiga on a RPI for 40 bucks or on your PC and save literally thousands dollars; and yet many users like to get the real hardware; so as for the previous point, it all depends from what each user wants. Personally I like original hardware, I have both the original floppy (and a spare one brand new), and a gotek, and I like to switch between the 2 depending from my mood. My favorite games and apps are on physical floppy; the rest is on ADF (cover disks, shareware and so on); and for the cover CD or fred fish CDs I mount them via OS; so that's the beauty of having options |
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20 July 2021, 19:59 | #5 | |
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20 July 2021, 21:07 | #6 | |
0ld0r Git
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Look at the back of the PCB where the LED is Soldered to. Could it be shorting out on the back of it's PCB to a metal frame? I don't have one, still love my Amiga-Click from Floppy-ville! |
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21 July 2021, 07:30 | #7 | |
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That was actually the first thing I looked at But the pcb is encased in a small printed holder, so it is not in contact with anything. It may well be the solder points being defective, but it did it with 2 screens (2 different manufacturers screen, not from the same vendor) so that's why I moved my attention toward the power LED area. I love the clicky sound too it is engraved in my memory and my gotek has the little speaker mod LOL Last edited by guybrush; 21 July 2021 at 18:23. |
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22 July 2021, 04:11 | #8 | |
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22 July 2021, 04:39 | #9 |
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Oh, I took the gotek out of its shell when I bought it; I retrofitted it inside my tower, so I didn't need the case itself. Just for sake of safety I placed electric tape all over the bottom connection points, so the bottom should be completely insulated. But the issue seem to be on the top part, where the red LED is soldered (at least from what I can tell) |
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