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#21 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Helsinki / Finland
Age: 41
Posts: 9,100
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Quote:
The one Hewitson found for the 1084-P1 is precisely what I'd need, unfortunately the schematics themselves are unreadable. Thankfully the board is single layer, it wouldn't be awfully difficult to trace where the signal goes and just look at the part number -> component value tables to figure out what needs to be added. I think I'll give this a go once I can muster the energy to dismantle the board out of the chassis.. I took a quick look yesterday but there were so many soldered connections holding things together and I didn't have enough time at my disposal. |
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#22 | |
Precious & fragile things
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 1,946
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Quote:
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#23 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England UK
Age: 34
Posts: 103
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Alex,
I took a few pictures from when I replaced the flyback on my CM8833-MkII, probably not much help but they may be of interest if you haven't taken your monitor apart yet: https://picasaweb.google.com/daleyo/...IResurrection# The board slides out quite nicely from the lower tray, and theres a handful of connectors to take off I can confirm the CM11342 chassis number, this gets you the right schematics. Just for future reference, if you haven't already replaced the flyback, you can get a HR brand spare from CPC/Farnell at a reasonable price. It may be worth buying to keep as a spare for if/when it blows: http://cpc.farnell.com/hr-diemen/hr7...3?Ntt=TFHR7533 Best of luck with the repair, it's an excellent monitor and well worth fixing - really nice sharp picture. Cheers ![]() |
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#24 | ||
Thalion Webshrine
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Oxford
Posts: 13,003
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Quote:
Quote:
Thanks again. |
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England UK
Age: 34
Posts: 103
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You're welcome mate
![]() Very, very simple to take apart. Put the monitor glass-down on a soft surface. There's four recessed screws on the back side of the monitor; one in each corner, plus a small black screw between the Composite/Audio RCA sockets that gives them some support. Ignore the row of three screws on the bottom edge for now, they attach the PCB tray to the front half of the monitor. The entire rear half of the cabinet should then lift up and off pretty easily, there's just one cable that connects the speakers/headphone jack to the board - unplug this and your monitor's open. Obviously now would be a good idea to discharge the anode under the suction cup, and then you can ease the PCB out of the tray, disconnecting wires as you go. ![]() Feel free to use any of my pictures if they're any use and you'd like to put a guide together! ![]() Cheers! |
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#26 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Helsinki / Finland
Age: 41
Posts: 9,100
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#27 |
Precious & fragile things
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 1,946
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An old trick to use when removing connectors.
Sometimes it's not always obvious where or indeed which way a connector was connected to a board, if you take a fine tipped marker pen and draw a line between the connector plug and the connector socket, it then makes it easy to put it back in the right place and in the right orientation. @Jope: I tried ![]() |
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#28 |
Posts: n/a
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Hi Guys, I have a very similar problem on my 1084S. Everything was working fine until the flyback blew up couple months ago. I finally managed to replace the flyback last week and when I turned it on, I noticed colors problem in Linear RGB input mode. Note that it works fine in composite mode. So when I turn the monitor on, it seems like only Green makes it. Then after the screen warmed up for about a minute, the Blue kicks in. Red doesn't show up at all. Since I get one more symptom with the blue, I thought it might point to something more precise. Any Idea? Please let me know! Cheers...
![]() the following schematic looks close to what I have http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarlsen/tdsweb/1084P/ And the screen like that but 1084S instead of 1084 http://www.c64-wiki.com/images/thumb...60px-C1084.jpg Last edited by Graham Humphrey; 22 June 2011 at 08:44. Reason: Back-to-back posts merged |
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#29 | |
Precious & fragile things
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 1,946
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Quote:
You need to start checking voltages, that will quickly tell you where the problem lies. If the flyback died there's a fair chance it will have taken out some of the circuitry with it. IC502 TDA 3505 pins 12, 13, 14 are RGB in from Euro Connector /SCART, check voltages there to begin with when inputting a perfectly white screen. Then follow the voltages through to transistors TS604 - 606. |
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#30 |
I hate potatos and shirts
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Also check/replace the 3 transistors + associated resistors in the tube neck board. That's a common problem and the fail may be caused by a high tension peak when the flyback died.
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#31 | |
Retro Freak
![]() Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Slovenia
Age: 49
Posts: 1,258
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#32 | |
Precious & fragile things
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 1,946
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Quote:
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#33 |
Thalion Webshrine
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Oxford
Posts: 13,003
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Done, but if you'd googled for CM11342 you'd have found it.
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#34 |
Retro Freak
![]() Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Slovenia
Age: 49
Posts: 1,258
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#35 |
Posts: n/a
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this monitor
here is the correct schematics etc
hope its not too big i fixed the one i got by using freezer spray had a rolling frame after a few seconds power was the vertical frame generation ic {not the frame driver!!!} one thing i noticed is you must power on the amiga before the montior or face no rgb and a white screen maybe this is part of the fault i am still looking at this monitor however here is the details feking 10 euros anywhere else!! ![]() http://www.megaupload.com/?d=RY7GJ782 if it disapears and you need it email me @ vsmlibs@talktalk.net this schematic and manual are for the cm 8833 MK2 or the CM11342/05G philips models covered = service information ----------------------- CM11342/00G/05G/10G/20G/75T CM11362/00T/05T/10T diagram service manual --------------------------- CM11342/00G/05G/10G/20G/75G CM11362/00T/05T/10T or several others with different inputs ok i notice power on issues perhaps is the rgb logic another ic to blame so.. what ill do tomorrow is use 1khz signal on each rgb input to flash to the colour i tried r g and b input and notice only the G and B work no red so its further on than the socket off to bed will be one of the tda ic's or more over ill replace ever electrolytic capcaitor first as usual then test again more tomorrow Last edited by SIMBO; 24 July 2011 at 02:05. |
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#36 |
Thalion Webshrine
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Oxford
Posts: 13,003
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#37 |
Amigaholic
![]() Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 3,847
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Time to revive an old thread!!
Had a slight issue with my 8833 MKII, namely mono sound! Took the cover off and noticed the Composite/Audio L/R inputs have come adrift of the PCB and some of the tracks have broke as a result ![]() Also, on the PCB there is a wire loose that looks to be from J21 near an IC, used one of the photos from d0pefish: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m...7/CIMG0171.JPG Look at the bottom, to the left of the big blue capacitor, and you'll see J21 near R3324, that's the wire that has come loose. Now, I think this wire has always been loose as I've never taken the monitor apart until today, so could anyone say what it's for and should it be soldered back? Until the sound issue I've had no other problem with the monitor! Have now put it back together and sound is working fine in stereo on all the games I just tested, so should I leave it at that and be thankful it still works? Also, that was the first time EVER I'd taken any type of CRT monitor/TV apart and was having the willys in case I touched something and blew myself or the monitor up, is there any 'procedure' to follow *IF* I ever open it up again, apart from unplug the cooking thing from the mains ![]() |
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#38 |
Zone Friend
![]() Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
Age: 49
Posts: 1,259
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could someone reup the manual? I haven't switched on my CM8833mk2 for years but I do remember there was some issue that the front channel switch had to be pushed slightly to display the channel, so had to use tape to slightly push onto the button to make it work.
In general, the mono sound issue could be also because the headphones input on the left side was somewhat forcefully bent on the inside. I believe I had this too one but fixed since. But seems in your case the RCA ones took a battering... |
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#39 |
Amigaholic
![]() Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 3,847
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A slight battering yes, that and the age of the thing. Don't know how long I've had this but it's been solid for years and finally hiccuped a few days ago!!
Zoned the service manual for you, think its the right one and I completely forgot I'd got this. |
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#40 |
Zone Friend
![]() Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
Age: 49
Posts: 1,259
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Thanks Barry!
will be an interesting read, and I just powered on my CM8833mk2 this eve (connected to a VCR) and it seems to work just file, phew ![]() |
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