A1200 Apollo accelerator /PSU / Paintjob

[EmuChicken]

Hej y'all!

Got my ass up and running and threw a ton of paint onto my yellowing A1200... Then stuck in a Gotek drive.

After a overhaul (check pic), sticking it back together- I'm getting issues with the apollo 030 III turbo accellerator crashing my system (not starting at all). With it out, it works fine. Could this be because the PSU isn't giving enough power any more?

As I'm in Japan, I'll be moving onto throwing a meanwell 65w psu to switch for the original power block. (so I can get AC/DC switch without seperator transformer), do you think doing this will solve the problem? And are there any guides to help with this specific PSU? @ MEAN WELL [PowerNex] NEW RPT-60B 5V/4A 12V/2A -12V0.5A 50W Triple Output

Thanks for any help and everything
Much love!

[EmuChicken]

So basically,

1. I'm wanting to re-wire up the PSU... Here are photos, can anyone poing to me at which goes where?
- edit; what's going on with the cable from the outlet? 3 wires in, 5 out- two going to the PSU switch!?

2. Is it possible that the Apollo accelerator isn't getting enough juice, so won't boot the Amiga?

[ajk]

On the input side, the three wires are live (brown), neutral (blue) and protective earth (green/yellow). The live wire is routed through the switch, so that when the PSU is switched off, that line is physically not making connection to the PCB. Note that the brown/blue/yellow colour coding is the European one, which the Amiga PSU seems to have, but you'll have to look up how it is in Japan if using locally sourced parts!

I think this is the correct datasheet for the PSU (please double check the model number): http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/RPT-60-SPEC-806448.pdf

There you will find that neutral goes to pin 1 and live goes - via the switch - to pin 3 of the input connector. The protective earth is connected to the screw terminal M1. It would be best to source a suitable plug (listed as "JST B3P-VH" in the datasheet) to make the connection.

On the output side you will need to connect the Amiga cable, again preferably by using a suitable plug (this time "JST B6P-VH"). It should be wired as in Stedy's guide here (and as per the Meanwell datasheet regarding the output): http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/am....html#rewiring

Please double and triple check and measure all the connections before turning on power, you don't want to fry either yourself, the PSU or the Amiga!

[EmuChicken]

Thanks ajk! I found that info earlier, just need to make sense out of it all really.

Btw : Is there a more sane version than just hard soldering all the cables in?

[ajk]

Well ideally you'd get the appropriate crimp pins and connector housings. I think they are these, but you should double check before ordering:

https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...33-1-ND/527367
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...1184-ND/608625
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...1187-ND/608628

Is there anything that is particularly unclear about the wiring that should be clarified? It's pretty much like with the old PSU board - mains electricity goes in from one end (three wires), different DC voltages come out the other. Just need to look carefully at the datasheet.

[EmuChicken]

ajk, is there a piece I can get to attach to the end of the wire, as to be able to plug in one pin at a time rather than the whole set?

edit: cut grab the wire, solder / heatshrink to the current PSU cables then plug em up? - see pic... Would this have any underlying problems or should be OK?

[ajk]

A complete connector will snap firmly in place, but individual wires probably won't. Without a connector, personally, I would desolder the pin headers from the new PSU board and solder the wires directly in place. Similar to how the old PSU board has them.

[Jope]

Don't forget strain relief if you decide to solder directly onto the psu. Leave enough slack and tie the cable to a post with a cable tie at the very least. Else the wires will break next to the solder joints due to vibration/motion.

[EmuChicken]

Thanks for the help guys- Currently confused as to which "CH" is which "v" ... There are three "V" values as there are "CH" ... Are they the same or would I blow something up?

re; http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/RPT-60-SPEC-806448.pdf

[Jope]

I hope you bought the RPT-60B, as the others are not suitable for amiga use.

You can map the different channels to the voltages from that datasheet you linked to. CH1 +5 CH2 +12 CH3 -12

But naturally you will measure at the end of the connector before plugging it in, because otherwise the amiga will fry if you have the wrong voltage on the wrong pin. :-)

[EmuChicken]

Yes, the CH1, CH2 and CH3 is stated, but not the V1 V2 V3, which correspond with the pins.

Is it safe to stick a multi-meter on the pins whilst it's powered up? ;o

[Jope]

Yes. Use the DC ground (pins 3,4) for the black probe.

[EmuChicken]

+respect-all-over-the-shop-as-always, Jope!

Thanks!

[EmuChicken]

Probed using the multimeter, did it for volts, was easiest way as amps didn't pick up for some reason.
Pins 1&2 were 5v, 3&4 were ground, 5 was 12v, 6 was -12.

Done! Working! Thanks guys!

Although it's a potential fire hazard... Whatever. .. Tie-wraps are the best! Happy Chappy!

[Jope]

Definitely only do it in voltage mode! Never hook up your multimeter in amp meter mode directly between a voltage + ground, you're basically short circuiting the PSU!

Amp meters are supposed to replace a conductor, so to speak. Think of it as part of an existing electronic circuit.

[demolition]

You probably burnt a fuse inside the multimeter when you connected it in current (amp) measuring mode. That means that it won't be able to measure current until you replace the fuse.

[EmuChicken]

it'll be fiiiiine ^-^