best way to Paint 1084s Monitor

[jagLally]

Hi,

I'm considering re-painting 1084s D1 monitor rather than retrobrite. It's got some fine line cracks. After much searching on what to do, I intend to fill with plastic cement. The kind recommended for PVC pipes. I don't fancy making my own slurry with Acetone; too much time and effort.

I've come across two techniques in my searching:

1) Clean, Sand, Prime and then automotive/plastic paint.
2) Clean, Sand and Vinyl Dye.

I came across this old thread too: http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=31987

What is the best way and achieve a natural original look so that it looks as if it came out of the factory that way? Ideally same original beige look but anything close enough will do.

Has anyone painted their monitor/amiga using either of the approaches?

I'm leaning towards Vinyl as some of the testimonials say "like it came this colour from the factory" but not sure if it will hide the fine crack fills.

Any recommendations on paint/technique/colour?

[AmigaEd]

Originally Posted by jagLally

Hi,
I intend to fill with plastic cement. The kind recommended for PVC pipes. I don't fancy making my own slurry with Acetone; too much time and effort.

Personally I would avoid the cement that is used for PVC pipes unless there is really a serious structural problem. Even then, there might be some epoxies that are better suited to that type of repair as opposed the the PVC pipe cement.

Also if you are really set on the idea of painting the 1084s housing, you might want to consider using some sandable automotive primer. This does a good job of filling small cracks and imperfections and gives a good surface to put finish primer on to.

I will say that I haven't tried painting a Commodore enclosure but I did do a couple of old PC cases. They came out pretty nice but the one thing I've found with most "rattle can" spay paints is they just do not produce a durable finish. The paint always has a bit of a "soft" quality to it that is easily scratched. I did a couple of PC cases using the Krylon "Fusion" paint and while the end results looked nice, the finish was still "soft" and easily scratch off.

[jagLally]

Originally Posted by AmigaEd

Personally I would avoid the cement that is used for PVC pipes unless there is really a serious structural problem. Even then, there might be some epoxies that are better suited to that type of repair as opposed the the PVC pipe cement.

Also if you are really set on the idea of painting the 1084s housing, you might want to consider using some sandable automotive primer. This does a good job of filling small cracks and imperfections and gives a good surface to put finish primer on to.

I will say that I haven't tried painting a Commodore enclosure but I did do a couple of old PC cases. They came out pretty nice but the one thing I've found with most "rattle can" spay paints is they just do not produce a durable finish. The paint always has a bit of a "soft" quality to it that is easily scratched. I did a couple of PC cases using the Krylon "Fusion" paint and while the end results looked nice, the finish was still "soft" and easily scratch off.

I’m m no expert obviously and never tried this before. From what I’ve read, the pipe cement is just like using Acetone. Both melt/fuse the plastic together rather than glue in the normal sense. Pipe Cement is just branding by most common use but it joins ABS and similar plastics. They are hairline cracks, so I’m hoping either approach should work equally well.

I need to paint the monitor and also want to repaint Amiga 500. I haven’t had brilliant results using retrobrite. Not many sunny days in UK and peroxide cream is causing some blooming and generally uneven results needing repeated applications.

I came across this guy using plastic specific paint called Kolorbond which looks pretty good on photos at least. https://www.binarydevotion.com/?p=241

Going to try this with a power supply first, and then if all goes well, with the Amiga.

[nexus]

slurry is simple as hell and it doesnt take long to make i always have some made

you should use the abs slurry at all cost thats the best easiest way

last time i used it i had to make the plastic sliders inside of slider analog sticks like on nintendo 3ds etc i used silly putty to make the molds lol and it made a 1:1 perfect replacement

i been thinking of ways to use the slurry to fix chips scratches etc in cases the issues is getting that texture to blend in

[jagLally]

Originally Posted by nexus

slurry is simple as hell and it doesnt take long to make i always have some made

you should use the abs slurry at all cost thats the best easiest way

last time i used it i had to make the plastic sliders inside of slider analog sticks like on nintendo 3ds etc i used silly putty to make the molds lol and it made a 1:1 perfect replacement

i been thinking of ways to use the slurry to fix chips scratches etc in cases the issues is getting that texture to blend in

I picked up the monitor very cheap and unseen. It has bad fly back transformer, bad on/off switch, missing front flap and the little grommets on the monitor side are also missing. The only thing going for it was the original box and manual it came with.

I’m trying to restore it. So far I’ve learnt to solder and replaced the on/off switch. Fly back transformer is on order.

You’ve convinced me to try slurry with acetone. I’m going to try your technique to make the 5mm grommets for flap hinges as well as the cracks. I looked into making vulcanised silicone rubber mould and plastic resin but the cost was very high relatively.

Any other tips than use tiny bits of ABS plastic and keep adding Acetone until it’s right consistency?

Special purchase of Acetone or wife/girlfriend nail varnish?