[Absolute last resort] Solution to A600 (maybe 1200?) keyboard cable problem

[prowler]

Originally Posted by orange

how exactly was it an insult? are you saying this solution isn't obvious? I'd say its at least as obvious as the friggin lock.
oh, and I meant *at least* 'half-brained'.
why don't you check his posts?

First, I don't recall using the word 'insult'.

I have checked his posts, along with every other users' posts in all the forums. Once thing I have noticed is that your posting stops just short of trolling on occasions and maybe others have noticed it too. The incident above might just be an inevitable consequence of that.

[roy bates]

the lock for the ribbon is obvios to anyone.if you look at the lock carefully you can see its in two halfs.

it is also on the 500 keyboards but its on the controller board,and yes,its the same lock.
it also has to be released in the exact same way as for the 600 and 1200 otherwise you risk damage to the ribbon.

sorry to everyone,but if you dont know how to unplug the ribbon you shouldnt be doing it in the first place.

akiras post was to show a last resort fix for the cable,and it works.as long as you dont cut off too much.
its not to show people how to unplug the damn thing.

locked




unlocked




as you can see its the same lock,and works exactly the same way.

[Amiga1992]

And it isn't an obvious solution. I really don't understand your purpose in this thread, orange, besides being condescending. But this is the last I'll say to you as I don't want to further throw fuel to this.

[DH]

*cough* This was posted on 24th July 2013 by our good friend Jope, post #25, check what is written in RED BOLD

Originally Posted by Jope

Please only use this approach as a last effort fix on a keyboard you are prepared to write off anyway.

If you are not careful, you can end up scraping too much and you end up with the same problem you were trying to fix in the first place.

As the first thing to try, you can cut off 1mm at the end of the flexi connector to make the contacts on the motherboard connector touch higher up in the black stripes.

And always ALWAYS unlatch the motherboard connector's sleeve before you plug in or remove the flexi cable. The sleeve slides up around the connector a few millimeters. Pull it up and only after that should you remove the flexi cable.

I decided to man up and do what I feel is right and edited this post into something more constructive + changed the thread title to reflect that this is not something you should try first.

Seems like all of this was unnecessary if someone had just taken the time to read the previous posts. But I guess this is now ended.

Nice last resort solution Akira mate

[Amiga1992]

I'll add Jope's remarks to my original post so nobody comes witch hunting me, although I did put a disclaimer :P

[Amiga1992]

So I tried this on a BLUE membrane and it doesn't seem to work at all. I think I basically ruined it now. The construction is different and the metal doesn't expose itself through the plastic bits!

I'm looking at how to fix this or if this is possible at all, the membrane is fucked anyway.


[edit] seems like the fix did work! It's just that the membrane got fucked by being pinched by the hard drive cradle. It seems a bit harder to attain the result with the blue ribbon though, you have to peel the plastic then very, very gently scrape the surface with the side of the blade.

[FOL]

Originally Posted by Akira

So I tried this on a BLUE membrane and it doesn't seem to work at all. I think I basically ruined it now. The construction is different and the metal doesn't expose itself through the plastic bits!

I'm looking at how to fix this or if this is possible at all, the membrane is fucked anyway.


[edit] seems like the fix did work! It's just that the membrane got fucked by being pinched by the hard drive cradle. It seems a bit harder to attain the result with the blue ribbon though, you have to peel the plastic then very, very gently scrape the surface with the side of the blade.

I agree, Blue does seem different. Screwed my one completely trying to get metal exposed.

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by FOL

I agree, Blue does seem different. Screwed my one completely trying to get metal exposed.

i believe it is a graphite/carbon based trace, and it is very easy to scrape off a little too much, i have about a 50/50 failure rate with them things

[Amiga1992]

Is there any way to know which trace to scrape if a certain column of keys isn't working?

[jimbob]

Originally Posted by Akira

Is there any way to know which trace to scrape if a certain column of keys isn't working?

There is a schematic which includes a keymap to pins diagram. I think it's one of the A600 ones here -

http://www.amigawiki.org/doku.php?id...ice:schematics

Or there is a document on aminet which has the map for an A1200 which is mostly the same.

Or you can drive yourself nuts tracing it out manually

Note that if you are checking the connection with a multimeter you have to measure for resistance not continuity. Resistance of carbon contact plus trace is usually too high to read as short circuit (>50ohms). Don't poke too hard on the pads with the meter probes.

EDIT: Rwap on amibay has produced new A600 membranes, blue and green. They are pricey due to low volume production. About £25 I think

[Amiga1992]

No way I'm paying 25 for a membrane! I mean, I understand why they are expensive, but I rather pass.

[Xtal]

I´d suggest an somewhat easier way. You know car window heating stripes and aerial antennas? Use a conductive paint. You can get crap paint at about 4€ but silver paint cost about 12€ and be aware that there's always crapsellers everywhere. I use Elfa/Distrelec here in sweden, they are professional suppliers since the 60's. You probably hav an equal supplier in your country.

[Mrs Beanbag]

Originally Posted by jimbob

There is a schematic which includes a keymap to pins diagram. I think it's one of the A600 ones here -

http://www.amigawiki.org/doku.php?id...ice:schematics

Or there is a document on aminet which has the map for an A1200 which is mostly the same.

Both of the A600 docs have the keyboard circuit schematic. Neither A1200 one has it, unfortunately, and i could really use that.

If anyone knows where i can get it i would be very grateful.

[jimbob]

Try one of these -

http://aminet.net/package/docs/hard/a1200INFO2
http://aminet.net/package/docs/hard/A1200KbdMtx
http://aminet.net/package/docs/hard/A1k2-KEYB

[Aughie]

£25 for a ribbon a new a1200 keyboard costs £27
http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/...roducts_id=336

[Aughie]

Whatis the best way to cut 1mm off the end of the cable.
Sissors or stanley knife given it must be done straight. Plus does it need scraped

[supaduper]

Originally Posted by Aughie

Whatis the best way to cut 1mm off the end of the cable.
Sissors or stanley knife given it must be done straight. Plus does it need scraped

Scissors, a good sharp pair are best used for this , and no there is no scraping to do

[spannernick]

WHY did Commodore make the Keyboard like this anyway I hate it,It was allright the way the A500 was..trying to save money on components..

[spannernick]

Just done this with my A600,the only keys that don't work now is the row with numbers 1 to 0 and the up key,anyone know what row it would be on the connector..?

[spannernick]

Looking at the schematic it's line 2 that's the problem not connecting.Must of scraped it to hard..

With the A1200 cable you don't need to scrap it, you can peal back the plastic off the contact but be careful not to pull to hard cos it can remove the traces with it.

I take no responsibility if it messes up.