07 November 2011, 21:43 | #81 |
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"It is our lot in life." (c) 3PO
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23 November 2011, 20:06 | #82 |
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Got a socket braceing thingummer back from the 3D printers today. I've attached the STL file that you need to send to a printer and the original AutoCAD .dwg file. You can use netfabb studio free version to view the STL file. This is the place I used -
http://3dprint-uk.co.uk/3d_printing_materials.html The part cost £5.40 + £3 postage which was a bit more than I'd hoped but I wanted to try out the process anyway. Here are some pics of the thing and its fit, (page 2 of the album) - http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x249/doojum/Amiga/#!cpZZ2QQtppZZ20 I measured the socket at exactly 30.8mm but if I squeezed the calipers a little it moved quite easily down as far as 30.6 and a shade. So I made the brace 30.7mm and bevelled the edge to help fit it on. The fit was very neat but you may just be able to see the tiniest gap bulge out where I left relief for the screw and the material is thinner. The relief for the screw was kinda an afterthought, and I think I left out too much material, allowing it to flex at this point. If anyone wants to try this and file out a gap for the screw themselves, I'll upload a file with that piece solid. Also I got the part printed in "verowhite" resin. It was the only material the place had available at the moment but I think their advertised "durus" might be better as it is more rigid. Other printers may have a better range of materials available. Don't know if this will be any use to those having trouble but it might be worth a try. Last edited by jimbob; 23 November 2011 at 20:13. |
24 November 2011, 12:53 | #83 |
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looking good! if your worried about loosing strength on the right hand side(i think thats what your talking about)then you could just drill a hole in it instead.
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24 November 2011, 23:30 | #84 |
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Ace jimbob
If you would make a solid one of those in "duru" with/without a hole in it I'll pay 12GBP+postage to Sweden. Please? Have Paypal. |
25 November 2011, 21:05 | #85 |
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I'd be happy to, though the idea was just to provide the file and anyone could send to their 3D printer of choice, bound to be a place in Sweden? It would be cheaper that way and no double posting etc.
Hang on a day or two, I'll email the place that made this to see when/if they will have "durus" available and adjust the drawing a bit. That little bit that bulges out is really tiny but probably enough to defeat the whole purpose. |
27 November 2011, 16:09 | #86 |
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Not the whole purpose, 3 sides will be held in place (which might or might not be good enough, of course).
Actually I'll have a listen with a workmate if he has some contacts, he regularly makes conference booth type marketing material. I'll let you know tomorrow if I can make it locally. |
28 November 2011, 19:00 | #87 |
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Update, durus material is unavailable for small orders as the machine has to be flushed and re-set up for different resin.
Also I got the data sheets for the two resins and durus is probably a worse choice. I don't really understand all the materials strength terms properly but the main difference for this purpose I think is the Tg or glass transition temperature. I understand this is the temperature at which the plastic loses much of its rigidity. Durus is ~36C, (unusably low?), vero is ~53C, (probably ok?). Anyway, attached are a pair of adjusted STL files. One has smaller and hopefully accurate hole for the screw, the other is solid all round. Send the one you want to this guy - http://3dprint-uk.co.uk/contact.html I got mine back in <48 hours. The price will be slightly different, due to different volume of the part. He says he will post international. Last edited by jimbob; 28 November 2011 at 19:06. |
17 March 2012, 12:37 | #88 |
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Damn, similar things happening to me now.
http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?...d=1#post807774 Roughly 3.5 months since I put the brace thing on. Medium usage, not on most days but quite a lot of long sessions. Can't be certain it is the ACA but rereading this thread, symptoms are similar to what you all talked about. Are other people still having trouble or just having to reseat every few months? Something occured to me when I looked at that pic again. Down at the bottom right, where part of the socket has been trimmed to fit over the smt resistor on the motherboard. Those two corner pins don't have much support at there sides. Which pins are those? EDIT:I think those pins are IPL0 and IPL1, doesn't mean much to me but . . . . (BTW. Did anyone try a brace thing. Even though it seems like it might not be very effective. I'll be sending for some different parts soon and I could add a few of these to the order. If anyone wants one, let me know.) Last edited by jimbob; 17 March 2012 at 13:04. |
17 March 2012, 20:08 | #89 |
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Had this again a week ago. (Black screen, no boot.) It had just been sitting on the desk unused for a few months. (Don't worry, I've been using my other Amiga )
Verified just now, boots fine with the ACA switch in the off position. To make really sure, I turned it off and switched the ACA on again. It guru'd, but could boot on the second try. I just ran Sysinfo and that worked fine, but I'll be using it a bit tonight to check. |
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