19 May 2012, 22:23 | #761 |
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Wrote this in another thread.
I found 12% here in Sweden if anyone is interested. 170SKR (19€) for 1 liter which is a bit more then you would want to pay, but it already comes in a thick mixture, ready to be put on the plastics (found that out when I got the bottle. Happy surprise) =) http://www.baressoshop.se/products/V...etCurrencyId=1 Yes, they ship with DHL or pick it up from the stores in Stockholm etc. Order 3 bottles and shipping is free Edit: Seems that product is gone. Use this one http://www.baressoshop.se/products/K...xid-12%25.html Or just search for magicolor at www.baressoshop.se if it disappears again Last edited by Turran; 27 January 2013 at 15:02. |
20 May 2012, 00:17 | #762 |
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If my memory is right, then your still able to buy 17.5% stuff at "any" painter supplies shop. the old stuff, 30-35%, isn't as available anymore, but for our purpose, it doesn't really matter.
B! |
20 May 2012, 01:09 | #763 |
French in Australia
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@Turran: we have the same sort of 12% gel here in Australia and I just did yesterday a couple of A600, some Overdrive HDD enclosures, an old LCD monitor which was more yellow than white and an Amiga tank mouse and the result was simply perfect. Amazing!
I've not even used 1 Liter and just added a tea spoon of Oxy activator (dilluted it a bit of warm water otherwise you can't mix it with the peroxyde gel). 5 hours on the winter Australia sun did the job. |
20 May 2012, 06:11 | #764 | |
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20 May 2012, 06:40 | #765 |
French in Australia
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Correction: everything now looks fantastic except the keyboard which still shows traces of yellow... hard to ensure UV all around keys, I guess...
Kipper2k: is there a "risk" to use the oxy ? Last edited by seb132; 20 May 2012 at 07:50. |
20 May 2012, 07:14 | #766 |
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20 May 2012, 11:51 | #767 |
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seb132: Interesting. I was just out trying it on. I did not dilute the oxy powder first so I had to really mix it for 5 minutes. Its foaming up nicely so I guess that did the trick.
Note that before I started, I ran it all in the washingmachine at the lowest temperature to get rid of any fat and dirt. Just remember to unscrew the backplate and remove the green membrane from the keyboard first =) Edit: You do not need the oxy, no. but as far as I know, it speeds up the process even more. In my case it turned out to be great since the mixture foamed up, making sure that every inch of the keyboard got hit with the mixture, even more so since I used plastic wrap which might otherwise have "protected" certain surfaces, like the edges. I did not have any good tray to put it in so I used household plastic to prevent it from drying out (used up the whole roll. Someone will be mad tonight =) ). Thanks for the "UV light all around" tip. I'll make sure to spin them around during the day. The images does not give the yellowing the honor it deserves when out in the sun. The top A1200 keyboard is actually the most yellow keyboard I've gotten my hands on so far. I'll post more when finished. Edit: 2-3 hours in.. Foaming nicely. Had to prick a hole in it so it does not explode =) Complete! 6 or so hours in the sun, turning the whole table a little bit every hour so the sun would hit every side equally much, its a striking success! The A1200 keyboard COULD use another treatment to get it as white as the A600 turned out, but that was pretty much expected as it was very yellow. I could probably have left it for another hour or so, but almost all the bubbles were gone and the plastic had fallen back on the keyboard again so I guessed the liquid was out of juice (no pun intended) anyway. Comparison shots with the untreated bottom which was in the exact same color before. Best part is that I still have 8 DL (0.8 litres) left of the H202, but more amigas need love so.. Edit: The Magicolor is a bit hard to rinse off. Washed the keyboards 3 times now and still some pop out. Next batch will probably go in the dishwasher after I'm done... Last edited by Turran; 20 January 2023 at 16:16. |
26 May 2012, 18:44 | #768 |
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Ive been using just plain old bblonde peroxide cream, nice sunny day, ive done the keyboard, top housing and the trapdoor of my A1200, the keyboard and top are still outside, but Ive brought the trapdoor in after an hour and a half to see if its working, the amiga seemed quite white when I started, but there is a differance.
Top housing and keyboard are outside drying after washing everything off about 1/2 hour ago.. spent nearly 2 hours in the sun. Last edited by sneeker; 26 May 2012 at 19:39. |
27 May 2012, 00:04 | #769 | |
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27 May 2012, 00:15 | #770 |
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We've had clear blue skies here in Manchester for about a week now!
I dont know what to do with myself, I think it's the apocolypse! |
27 May 2012, 01:12 | #771 |
French in Australia
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UV will go through clouds anyway guys...
Turran: nice job with your keyboards. I have prefered to remove all keys from mine, hence why it was hard to turn all keys all day one by one... If I were you I wouldn't use the diswasher except if you have specific rince program. Hot water could damage (melt?) the Amigas perhaps, no? My peroxyde gel was very easy to wash as it is very compatible with water and will dissolve immediately: you can feel the plastic gets "dry from peroxyde" when you rince it - I don't know how to explain but your skin will feel it. See below pictures of my retr0bright session (one more retr0bright party to come today as the weather is perfect!) |
27 May 2012, 10:55 | #772 |
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When I removed all the keys from my Amiga to Retr0Bright them, I somehow broke the keyboard and had to buy a new one. Not a massive issue to me really because I bought a brand new, non-yellowed one, but I really do not know how I managed to break the keyboard.
I was extremely careful when removing the ribbon cable from the Amiga and also when individually removing the keys. On the other hand, I wouldn't want to apply that gel to the whole keyboard and do it that way because surely the stuff would get inside the keys and get to the springs which would maybe eventually rust as a result? |
27 May 2012, 13:37 | #773 |
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the key springs start rusting near anough straight away if you get h202 on them because it an oxidiser.
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27 May 2012, 14:10 | #774 |
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Haven't had any problems with rust from my last session. When I read this, I plopped one of the keys off to check and the spring is fine. From what I see from the other ones, they look fine too. Guess it will start to rust soon =)
Oh, my dishwasher has a "rinse" mode with 35-40c water. I use that before and after nowadays. One thing I have not found yet is a good wax or similar to spray them with afterwards. I was thinking about armourall or turtlewax for cars, but turtlewax was too thick and you'd have to do each key individually (urk). If I remember correctly though, armorall is a spray so have to try and get me a bottle. |
28 May 2012, 00:14 | #775 |
French in Australia
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I'm not very confident with the look and feel coming wax or lacquer and I've simply decided not to use any to prevent from re-yellowing.
As yellowing is a reversible process thanks to retr0bright, I will treat my Amigas each time I consider they became too yellow... I prefer this rather than being disapointed by a painting process which far less reversible. |
28 May 2012, 02:09 | #776 |
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had to buy 5 jars of 30 percent on a near medical store disassemble all low moderate pre heat if too high keys melt or worse get white burned
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17 June 2012, 21:12 | #777 |
Posts: n/a
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Is it possible to use CMC as gelling agent with retr0bright?
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21 June 2012, 01:52 | #778 |
I hate potatos and shirts
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Naive question: what's CMC?
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21 June 2012, 08:30 | #779 |
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CMC-FH9 sodium carboxymethyl cellulose
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21 June 2012, 09:25 | #780 |
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Yeah, it should work as a thickener; most starchy or cellulosic polymers will work. Wallpaper paste is probably the most readily available to Joe Public.
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