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#1 |
Registered User
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Good timing for bad news...
As some of you might glean from my location info, I run a BBS system 24/7 off of my Amiga 1200. Said Amiga 1200 has bad caps galore and is generally very flaky. The computer is an actual Commodore A1200 and has been running for a year, non stop, on top of whatever use it saw before I bought it.
So am I am making a retro gaming room (pics to follow in the proper thread) and I decided to order a PAL A1200 from Amigakit. It arrived yesterday, I threw my spare MTEC Viper in it, a CF card with ClassicWB and hooked it up via RGB SCART to a multisytem TV I purchased just for the occasion and it works great! The problem is that I only have one power supply. So I took the BBS down for about 8 hours while I transferred files from the CF card to the CF hard disk to create ClassicWB. So I guess in this time the BBS 1200 cooled off enough to totally break itself. When it boots now the system either thinks the right mouse button is constantly being pressed, or it just doesn't see the right mouse button as being pressed. The sound is also shot but it has been like that for a while now... So it is pretty much dead in the water. It does manage to boot into the ClassicWB right mouse button version of workbench though. So here is my question... I just took apart my brand new, perfectly working Amiga Technologies A1200 I bought from Amigakit, and transferred all of my hardware from the original BBS 1200 into it. The BBS is back up and working. If I continue to run the BBS 24/7 on it, am I likely to burn this one out like I did the other one? I imagine the answer is YES... Also, do you think just getting the capacitors in the Original 1200 replaced would be enough to fix the mouse button issues or is something like that deeper? I guess it can't hurt to try... Thanks for reading my story... ![]() |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,719
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Wow...
My other A1200 had a similar issue... Once upon a time when I was playing with her (grr..), I accidentally gave her a static electricity shock! I turned her off and cried. When I turned her on, nothing more than a black screen appeared ![]() After lots of playing around, I figured that she is booting ONLY if I hold down the right mouse button o.O Whenever I release the button, the machine freeze... Also, the sound is all fucked up... I figured out it has something to do with one of the CIA chips! I guess that's your issue too... Sorry to hear this :/ I guess she is in Amiga Heaven now, save her before it's too late! What to do? Well, recap the whole mobo, and if it doesn't work, replace the CIA chips! Get a hot air workstation ![]() |
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#3 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Thunder Bay, Canada
Posts: 4,323
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Quote:
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#4 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,719
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Quote:
![]() You see, the static electricity went through the mouse cord and into MOUSE 1, which leads to U3 and stuff :/ Maybe, MAYBE the issue still is in U7... I'd love to get some help on this!! Maybe the wrong thread, but still ![]() Last edited by 8bitbubsy; 22 September 2009 at 23:13. |
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#5 |
Registered User
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I hate to see any Original Amiga hardware, let alone COMMODORE Amiga hardware go down without a fight. I will try and get it repaired at the Ami-West show in October assuming they have the solder jockey's on hand. I can see at least 3 CAPS that are discolored at the base, 2 audio and one other one.
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#6 |
Global Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sidcup, England
Posts: 10,300
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Hi illy,
Your problem could also be heat-related. Check the motherboard for signs of dry joints too. |
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#7 |
Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Eksjö / Sweden
Posts: 5,660
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If you can get at the legs of the tall electrolytic caps, I recommend nipping them off the board and out of the Amiga. So they don't damage the board between now and the day they get replaced.
If not, try to wedge something under them that will protect the PCB. |
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#8 |
I hate potatos and shirts
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To protect the motherboard, just store it upside down.
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#9 |
Registered User
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Well here is the final word on this system. Had 5 of the same types of Caps replaced at the classic clinic at Amiwest (the audio type 22/25) and still having the problem so it is likely one of the custom chips...
I ended up selling it to another attendee who can either fix it or put it to some good future use so it found a good home. |
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#10 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: US
Posts: 319
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For future reference - replace all caps, could be any number of them causing the problem. Doing only a few is a waste of time as they are all prone to leakage and failure. (Just my opinion after replacing caps on several A600 and A1200 boards.)
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#11 |
Ya' like it Retr0?
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Age: 49
Posts: 9,768
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Your problem is synominous with a failing PAULA I am afraid to say.
with a little patience, practice and a heat gun, you can easly remove Paula and replace the chip with another. You could try Amigakit for a replacement, but bare in mind the cost of a total board when you ask. I would however first start by replacing ALL the capacitors on the motherboard, from there I would then move on to replacing Paula. |
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#12 |
PSPUAE DEV
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after seeing this first hand i can safely say its an odd one. Its almost like its missing a ground or something of that nature.
But without all the correct tools i couldnt say for sure. Last edited by FOL; 18 October 2009 at 08:04. |
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#13 |
Registered User
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Thanks everyone,
It went to a good home (intertial computing bought it to fix or to part out for their various and amazing projects!) and it was fun trying to get it fixed. It was cool meeting you FOL! Enjoy the last day of the show! |
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