Upgrading Apollo 1240 to 1260 a definitive How To Guide - Page 4

mfilos · 22 June 2008, 22:21

@The Corfiot
My friend, I'm glad it suit your needs! I had it on my A1240 before the upgrade to 1260! It's indeed a nice fan for desktop use!
I'll send it tomorrow mate!
Να είσαι καλά a.k.a. be well

Dimlow · 24 June 2008, 01:33

@Zetr0
I received that solder sucker today, and first impressions is poor, It works and it sucks solder, so it is of some use. The tips you get with it are very poor, they don't hold solder on it very well. Because of this its hard to melt small amounts of solder. I tried sucking a few of the pins out on the Apollo but gave up in the end. The problem could also be that the solder joints have become a little dry with age. I also tried it on some fresh boards and it did work much better. Its very easy to clog up the sucker too, but that seems the way with others i had used in the past. So , my verdict is , its not the best, if you have more cash to spend on another the do that instead.
As for the Apollo card i will use hot air, just purchased this.

rkauer · 24 June 2008, 02:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dimlow

@Zetr0
I received that solder sucker today, and first impressions is poor, It works and it sucks solder, so it is of some use. The tips you get with it are very poor, they don't hold solder on it very well. Because of this its hard to melt small amounts of solder. I tried sucking a few of the pins out on the Apollo but gave up in the end. The problem could also be that the solder joints have become a little dry with age. I also tried it on some fresh boards and it did work much better. Its very easy to clog up the sucker too, but that seems the way with others i had used in the past. So , my verdict is , its not the best, if you have more cash to spend on another the do that instead.
As for the Apollo card i will use hot air, just purchased this.

Then, time for another hint: use an iron and put more solder over the old one. After the two solders melt and mix, it's easy to suck all out.

Zetr0 · 24 June 2008, 03:00

@Dimlow

that Kada 852D+ is the bigger brother to mine (852D)... its a wonderfull unit.... i wouldn't know what to do without it....

just today I chipped 1 xbox...

removed the memory from a dead xbox mobo and upgraded another xbox

and I chipped that too.

then I fixed my friends D2C-Drive (Wii) as he had broken 4 pins on a chip... it was that bad i had to use a dremel (rotary tool) to take back the plastic cover of the chip to expose some tracks (have pics

)... AND THEN on top of all that i did something else... and i forgot... bugger.... oh well its a great unit

anyway.... as a top tip.... pop down to Wilkinsons or Wicks and pickup a pot of Plumbers Flux.... dont be shy.... and when you get home, find a hobby paint brush and be liberal with the flux over the components you want to de-solder! you should find that the de-solder gun will work MUCH better.... (i sooo want one of those... if there was a green envy smiley

)

okay another thing THAT i think you will like.... its kinda on topic too.....

Overclocking an 060 and a PPC

@rkauer

my good and most excellent friend... I have some pics for you

Hewitson · 24 June 2008, 03:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by laser

btw, I do not recommend any change cpu change on that board......the 060 it's a bit faster than the 040/40mhz...you will not notice any speed difference on workbench or applications or games....

Thats absolute bullshit. Do you have any idea how much faster the 060 actually is? Especially when clocked @ 66 or 80mhz?

BTW, it is not recommended to fit a socket if you want to fit the card in a standard A1200 case.

Dimlow · 24 June 2008, 04:04

@rkauer, Yes excellent tip, been doing that for years now, i was not trying to remove the 040 on the Apollo, i was just testing out the sucker gun.

@Zetro, So i made a good choice then. What is the solder iron like on that unit, i thought i read that is was not to great, I have a digital gold one bought cheep from maplins a year or two ago, and think its great. Done tons of soldering with it. The tips are great to. Still on my first one. Bought two spare packs of tips for it when i bought the iron. Looks like i will never need them. The reason I'm asking about the iron on that unit is because workbench space is tight here, may need to dump one.

I hope your using lead free with all that soldering your doing ( that could explain some of the strange posts i see he from you!)

That Overclocking page looks interesting, i will have to have a proper read later, its too late now for my mind to work.

@Hewiton I recon its about 1.7 times faster, so worth it. yep ?

right, bed time, night all

Zetr0 · 24 June 2008, 04:16

@Dmilow

the soldering iron is ceramic and is FANTASTIC! it heats up in under a minute and retains heat perfectly! its compatible with may tip types too

@laser
the 060@50Mhz provides around 80Mips were as the 040 cannot do even half of that. arguably there wont be much difference on games, but when it comes to productivity... its VERY noticeable

Another thing to add here... when running on native (polled PIO mode 0) IDE this really cripples the Amiga no matter what CPU you have.

Dimlow · 24 June 2008, 04:24

Opps

really is time for bed

Zetr0 · 24 June 2008, 04:31

Shit man.... goto bed now!

run some 28Awg in the morning.....

*bring your temperature down a bit too

*

Dimlow · 24 June 2008, 04:33

Im trying, but well, keep finding things to do.

As for plumbers flux... quote from epe...

Normal electronics grade solder is now "lead free" and typically contains Sn 97 Ag 2.5 Cu 0.5 (i.e. 97% tin, 2.5% silver and 0.5% copper). It already contains cores of "flux" which helps the molten solder to flow more easily over the joint. Flux removes oxides which arise during heating, and is seen as a brown fluid bubbling away on the joint. The use of separate acid flux paste (e.g. as used by plumbers) should NEVER be necessary in normal electronics applications because electronics-grade solder already contains the correct grade of flux! Other solders are available for specialist work, including aluminium and silver-solder. Different solder diameters are produced, too; 20-22 SWG (19-21 AWG) is 0.91-0.71mm diameter and is fine for most work. Choose 18 SWG (16 AWG) for larger joints requiring more solder.

Zetr0 · 24 June 2008, 04:39

LOL.... 16AWG is good if you have it.... if not.... 28 is FINE

insofar ... yes all solder comes with a core of flux..... but to be honest my friend.... thats just crap i threw that book out long ago!... once you have tried flux paste.... Oh my... you will NEVER go back!

I will say though... YOU MUST clean it up off the board after your done as it is corrosive!

I use lens cleaner a stiff (synthetic) brush with a paper towel and lens cloth... the fluid drys quickly and cleanly but the best bonus is that its dirt cheap from pound-land

[edit]

I use two solder pitches as well... .022 and 0.015 for micro-electronics for the bigger stuff i use .07

Dimlow · 24 June 2008, 10:58

Yea, i green wire all the time but its blue wire !, some of my designs need it bad. I also use isopropyl to clean boards after i solder them, it works well. Will look into this lens cleaner stuff. here is a tips for you don't use Nial varnish remover, ie acetate. It eats some solder resists for breakfast.

you like hardware pron ? If your interested i will post you a pic of my last project... A self contained CNC controller with stepper drivers all on one board. Designed and build from scratch by myself. It drills PCBs.

Zetr0 · 24 June 2008, 11:20

OMG YES PLEASE!!!!!

i have always wanted to build my own CNC Drilling machine!!!!!

Dimlow · 24 June 2008, 17:44

I have uploaded a small [ Show youtube player ]of the CNC drills first test to You tube.

It was tested with a broken drill and the drill motor was spinning out of centre but it worked! I don't have pics of the machine at to moment as i have put it away. I got bored with it and moved on to other things, ie the Amiga!

Just uploaded [ Show youtube player ], one of the very first tests.

Zetr0 · 24 June 2008, 20:09

Now that is AWESOME

i sooo want a CNC machine... i want a table top one for my office

that would be uber cool

Dimlow · 25 June 2008, 10:36

What evidence is there to suggest that 68060 have been faked, i can find nothing about it on Google.

Image if my 68060

rkauer · 27 June 2008, 05:26

People, I've found a seller who asks 2.40USD for the 27C128 (150ns, the very kind EPROM we need), plus US$5.20 for S&H.

He have 7 pieces. If anyone have interest, I'll contact the EPAY seller to add the chips in a "individual chip buy it now" basis.

Damn flu!

Zetr0: how you infected me over the Atlantic, m8?

Zetr0 · 27 June 2008, 13:14

@rkauer

my friend.... apologies....

but to cheer you up I sent you a parcel yesterday.... you should get it in the week

I have also removed that a500+ battery the damage was minimal... I will test her out for you today see if i can get her fired up

rkauer · 27 June 2008, 22:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zetr0

@rkauer

my friend.... apologies....

but to cheer you up I sent you a parcel yesterday.... you should get it in the week

I have also removed that a500+ battery the damage was minimal... I will test her out for you today see if I can get her fired up

Wow! That's some good news!

My flu shakes in fear!

Play a game on she for me!

BTW: that other accelerator is improving on design.

Dimlow · 29 June 2008, 02:46

Well its been a week since i designed the regulator board, so i though it was time i put it together. I like to leave thing a while after i design them. Give me a chance to correct errors.

Here is some pron. Pictures are a bit big. but I'm proud!
Edit: Changed images to clickable thumbs

Back

Fitted into the 1240

Testing the output, No load so a little high.

24 June 2008, 04:24	#68
Dimlow Likes to be thought of as Join Date: May 2008 Location: Kent,UK Age: 55 Posts: 529	Opps really is time for bed Last edited by Dimlow; 05 July 2008 at 06:42.

24 June 2008, 17:44	#74
Dimlow Likes to be thought of as Join Date: May 2008 Location: Kent,UK Age: 55 Posts: 529	I have uploaded a small [ Show youtube player ]of the CNC drills first test to You tube. It was tested with a broken drill and the drill motor was spinning out of centre but it worked! I don't have pics of the machine at to moment as i have put it away. I got bored with it and moved on to other things, ie the Amiga! Just uploaded [ Show youtube player ], one of the very first tests. Last edited by Dimlow; 24 June 2008 at 17:52.

29 June 2008, 02:46	#80
Dimlow Likes to be thought of as Join Date: May 2008 Location: Kent,UK Age: 55 Posts: 529	Well its been a week since i designed the regulator board, so i though it was time i put it together. I like to leave thing a while after i design them. Give me a chance to correct errors. Here is some pron. Pictures are a bit big. but I'm proud! Edit: Changed images to clickable thumbs Back Fitted into the 1240 Testing the output, No load so a little high. Last edited by Dimlow; 05 July 2008 at 06:43.

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22 June 2008, 22:21	#61
mfilos Paranoid Amigoid Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Athens/Greece Age: 45 Posts: 1,978	@The Corfiot My friend, I'm glad it suit your needs! I had it on my A1240 before the upgrade to 1260! It's indeed a nice fan for desktop use! I'll send it tomorrow mate! Να είσαι καλά a.k.a. be well

24 June 2008, 01:33	#62
Dimlow Likes to be thought of as Join Date: May 2008 Location: Kent,UK Age: 55 Posts: 529	@Zetr0 I received that solder sucker today, and first impressions is poor, It works and it sucks solder, so it is of some use. The tips you get with it are very poor, they don't hold solder on it very well. Because of this its hard to melt small amounts of solder. I tried sucking a few of the pins out on the Apollo but gave up in the end. The problem could also be that the solder joints have become a little dry with age. I also tried it on some fresh boards and it did work much better. Its very easy to clog up the sucker too, but that seems the way with others i had used in the past. So , my verdict is , its not the best, if you have more cash to spend on another the do that instead. As for the Apollo card i will use hot air, just purchased this.

24 June 2008, 03:00	#64
Zetr0 Ya' like it Retr0? Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: United Kingdom Age: 49 Posts: 9,768	@Dimlow that Kada 852D+ is the bigger brother to mine (852D)... its a wonderfull unit.... i wouldn't know what to do without it.... just today I chipped 1 xbox... removed the memory from a dead xbox mobo and upgraded another xbox and I chipped that too. then I fixed my friends D2C-Drive (Wii) as he had broken 4 pins on a chip... it was that bad i had to use a dremel (rotary tool) to take back the plastic cover of the chip to expose some tracks (have pics )... AND THEN on top of all that i did something else... and i forgot... bugger.... oh well its a great unit anyway.... as a top tip.... pop down to Wilkinsons or Wicks and pickup a pot of Plumbers Flux.... dont be shy.... and when you get home, find a hobby paint brush and be liberal with the flux over the components you want to de-solder! you should find that the de-solder gun will work MUCH better.... (i sooo want one of those... if there was a green envy smiley ) okay another thing THAT i think you will like.... its kinda on topic too..... Overclocking an 060 and a PPC @rkauer my good and most excellent friend... I have some pics for you

24 June 2008, 04:04	#66
Dimlow Likes to be thought of as Join Date: May 2008 Location: Kent,UK Age: 55 Posts: 529	@rkauer, Yes excellent tip, been doing that for years now, i was not trying to remove the 040 on the Apollo, i was just testing out the sucker gun. @Zetro, So i made a good choice then. What is the solder iron like on that unit, i thought i read that is was not to great, I have a digital gold one bought cheep from maplins a year or two ago, and think its great. Done tons of soldering with it. The tips are great to. Still on my first one. Bought two spare packs of tips for it when i bought the iron. Looks like i will never need them. The reason I'm asking about the iron on that unit is because workbench space is tight here, may need to dump one. I hope your using lead free with all that soldering your doing ( that could explain some of the strange posts i see he from you!) That Overclocking page looks interesting, i will have to have a proper read later, its too late now for my mind to work. @Hewiton I recon its about 1.7 times faster, so worth it. yep ? right, bed time, night all

24 June 2008, 04:16	#67
Zetr0 Ya' like it Retr0? Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: United Kingdom Age: 49 Posts: 9,768	@Dmilow the soldering iron is ceramic and is FANTASTIC! it heats up in under a minute and retains heat perfectly! its compatible with may tip types too @laser the 060@50Mhz provides around 80Mips were as the 040 cannot do even half of that. arguably there wont be much difference on games, but when it comes to productivity... its VERY noticeable Another thing to add here... when running on native (polled PIO mode 0) IDE this really cripples the Amiga no matter what CPU you have.

24 June 2008, 04:31	#69
Zetr0 Ya' like it Retr0? Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: United Kingdom Age: 49 Posts: 9,768	Shit man.... goto bed now! run some 28Awg in the morning..... bring your temperature down a bit too

24 June 2008, 04:33	#70
Dimlow Likes to be thought of as Join Date: May 2008 Location: Kent,UK Age: 55 Posts: 529	Im trying, but well, keep finding things to do. As for plumbers flux... quote from epe... Normal electronics grade solder is now "lead free" and typically contains Sn 97 Ag 2.5 Cu 0.5 (i.e. 97% tin, 2.5% silver and 0.5% copper). It already contains cores of "flux" which helps the molten solder to flow more easily over the joint. Flux removes oxides which arise during heating, and is seen as a brown fluid bubbling away on the joint. The use of separate acid flux paste (e.g. as used by plumbers) should NEVER be necessary in normal electronics applications because electronics-grade solder already contains the correct grade of flux! Other solders are available for specialist work, including aluminium and silver-solder. Different solder diameters are produced, too; 20-22 SWG (19-21 AWG) is 0.91-0.71mm diameter and is fine for most work. Choose 18 SWG (16 AWG) for larger joints requiring more solder.

24 June 2008, 04:39	#71
Zetr0 Ya' like it Retr0? Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: United Kingdom Age: 49 Posts: 9,768	LOL.... 16AWG is good if you have it.... if not.... 28 is FINE insofar ... yes all solder comes with a core of flux..... but to be honest my friend.... thats just crap i threw that book out long ago!... once you have tried flux paste.... Oh my... you will NEVER go back! I will say though... YOU MUST clean it up off the board after your done as it is corrosive! I use lens cleaner a stiff (synthetic) brush with a paper towel and lens cloth... the fluid drys quickly and cleanly but the best bonus is that its dirt cheap from pound-land [edit] I use two solder pitches as well... .022 and 0.015 for micro-electronics for the bigger stuff i use .07

24 June 2008, 10:58	#72
Dimlow Likes to be thought of as Join Date: May 2008 Location: Kent,UK Age: 55 Posts: 529	Yea, i green wire all the time but its blue wire !, some of my designs need it bad. I also use isopropyl to clean boards after i solder them, it works well. Will look into this lens cleaner stuff. here is a tips for you don't use Nial varnish remover, ie acetate. It eats some solder resists for breakfast. you like hardware pron ? If your interested i will post you a pic of my last project... A self contained CNC controller with stepper drivers all on one board. Designed and build from scratch by myself. It drills PCBs.

24 June 2008, 11:20	#73
Zetr0 Ya' like it Retr0? Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: United Kingdom Age: 49 Posts: 9,768	OMG YES PLEASE!!!!! i have always wanted to build my own CNC Drilling machine!!!!!

24 June 2008, 20:09	#75
Zetr0 Ya' like it Retr0? Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: United Kingdom Age: 49 Posts: 9,768	Now that is AWESOME i sooo want a CNC machine... i want a table top one for my office that would be uber cool

25 June 2008, 10:36	#76
Dimlow Likes to be thought of as Join Date: May 2008 Location: Kent,UK Age: 55 Posts: 529	What evidence is there to suggest that 68060 have been faked, i can find nothing about it on Google. Image if my 68060

27 June 2008, 05:26	#77
rkauer I hate potatos and shirts Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sao Leopoldo / Brazil Age: 58 Posts: 3,482	People, I've found a seller who asks 2.40USD for the 27C128 (150ns, the very kind EPROM we need), plus US$5.20 for S&H. He have 7 pieces. If anyone have interest, I'll contact the EPAY seller to add the chips in a "individual chip buy it now" basis. Damn flu! Zetr0: how you infected me over the Atlantic, m8?

27 June 2008, 13:14	#78
Zetr0 Ya' like it Retr0? Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: United Kingdom Age: 49 Posts: 9,768	@rkauer my friend.... apologies.... but to cheer you up I sent you a parcel yesterday.... you should get it in the week I have also removed that a500+ battery the damage was minimal... I will test her out for you today see if i can get her fired up

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