CD32 Capacitor list

kipper2k · 23 January 2014, 15:48

Hmmm, double post, can someone remove the double please

Hi All,

Here is a list of capacitors required for a Cap change on a Rev 3 CD32

4 x 4.7uf 35v
4 x 10uf 35v
6 x 22uf 35v
5 x 47uf 16v
9 x 100uf 6.3v

big cans...

1 x 470uf 10v
2 x 1000uf 10v

Recommend buying the Panasonic brand. Don't cheap out and buy the no name

here are 2 pictures of the CD32 motherboard, first showing the caps on and the next caps off, i'll just link them as they are Hires

http://www.kipper2k.com/cd32/cd32_to...caps_hires.jpg

and without...

http://www.kipper2k.com/cd32/cd32_top_without_caps_hires.jpg

you can see that the 2 1000uf 10v cans are starting to bulge

jimbob · 23 January 2014, 16:51

I just did a CD32 for the first time, my list matches yours but there a couple of things to look out for.

The 2 big 1000uF caps are bulging because apparently most, (all?) CD32s have an error in the silkscreen and these parts have subsequently been installed backwards. Check carefully.

No idea what happens to electros when installed and operated backwards for years but the ones I took out measure about 500uF both ways round

Also according to the schematic C821, the 470uF through hole is the main filter cap on the +12V line. I replaced the 10V part with a 16V. These are a perfect fit -

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/pro...03&sku=1800634

kipper2k · 23 January 2014, 16:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbob

I just did a CD32 for the first time, my list matches yours but there a couple of things to look out for.

The 2 big 1000uF caps are bulging because apparently most, (all?) CD32s have an error in the silkscreen and these parts have subsequently been installed backwards. Check carefully.

No idea what happens to electros when installed and operated backwards for years but the ones I took out measure about 500uF both ways round

Also according to the schematic C821, the 470uF through hole is the main filter cap on the +12V line. I replaced the 10V part with a 16V. These are a perfect fit -

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/pro...03&sku=1800634

depending on the circuit you'll pop an electrolytic cap if put on backward. My thoughts on the "Commodore put the caps on backward" theory is the machines have worked for 20 odd years so i am not going to change the direction, that goes for the audio on the a1200's too.

You can probably use caps with a max 16v rating, but same thing, i like to replace with identical rated parts if available

jimbob · 23 January 2014, 17:04

I know it's hard to fathom them working all these years but just check with a continuity meter. The pads marked + on C811 and C408 go straight to ground.

kipper2k · 23 January 2014, 17:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbob

I know it's hard to fathom them working all these years but just check with a continuity meter. The pads marked + on C811 and C408 go straight to ground.

I checked c811 and it is definitely curious. +ve goes to ground and -ve has 1300 ohms resistance. I checked the cd32 schematic on amigawiki and their diagram shows +ve going to vcc and -ve going to ground (0 ohms)

jimbob · 23 January 2014, 17:26

I found the the pads marked - have continuity to +5V.

1300R to ground must just be the parallel resistance of the whole board between Vcc and ground.

If you ask me, schematic is right, board is wrong. Amazing! I guess only being reversed polarity by half the rated voltage is not enough to pop them but the ones I took out were bulged at least as bad as in your pic. Better give the one I have a thorough burn in test just to be sure

kipper2k · 23 January 2014, 17:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbob

I found the the pads marked - have continuity to +5V.

1300R to ground must just be the parallel resistance of the whole board between Vcc and ground.

If you ask me, schematic is right, board is wrong. Amazing! I guess only being reversed polarity by half the rated voltage is not enough to pop them but the ones I took out were bulged at least as bad as in your pic. Better give the one I have a thorough burn in test just to be sure

I plan on doing the caps on this board this weekend so i will swap the polarity and see what happens

Amiga_CDTV · 23 January 2014, 19:37

Thanks for the list and especially thanks for the photos - really good reference to go by.

When I got my CD32 couple of years back, I replaced the big caps (visibly bulged and installed backwards) and some of the small SMD caps; the ones that were looking bad (signs leakage or corrosion on component legs). I am not too keen on SMD caps (broke one or two pads during soldering, not fun) so I did it a bit lazy way.

Before I did the re-cap I remember that the unit used to smell a bit fishy (as leaky electrolytics are often described) when it get warm. Now it just "smells warm" and not fishy anymore.

kipper2k · 03 February 2014, 02:05

I did recap this CD32 and happy to say it looks good not only on the TV but pyhysically

It was really rusty and nasty so i used some "Tremclad" antirust paint on it

Lord Aga · 01 September 2014, 22:54

So what is the correct orientation for those two caps ?
Grey stripes towards the power switch or away from it ?
My caps are also bulging, and it's time to replace them. But which way

?

FOL · 01 September 2014, 23:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lord Aga

So what is the correct orientation for those two caps ?
Grey stripes towards the power switch or away from it ?
My caps are also bulging, and it's time to replace them. But which way

?

The reverse of what they are now. You could always use a multi-metre to confirm.

Lord Aga · 02 September 2014, 18:22

So, the opposite of this

?

23 January 2014, 15:48	#1
kipper2k Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Thunder Bay, Canada Posts: 4,323	CD32 Capacitor list Hmmm, double post, can someone remove the double please Hi All, Here is a list of capacitors required for a Cap change on a Rev 3 CD32 4 x 4.7uf 35v 4 x 10uf 35v 6 x 22uf 35v 5 x 47uf 16v 9 x 100uf 6.3v big cans... 1 x 470uf 10v 2 x 1000uf 10v Recommend buying the Panasonic brand. Don't cheap out and buy the no name here are 2 pictures of the CD32 motherboard, first showing the caps on and the next caps off, i'll just link them as they are Hires http://www.kipper2k.com/cd32/cd32_to...caps_hires.jpg and without... http://www.kipper2k.com/cd32/cd32_top_without_caps_hires.jpg you can see that the 2 1000uf 10v cans are starting to bulge Last edited by kipper2k; 08 July 2014 at 15:21.

02 September 2014, 18:22	#12
Lord Aga MI clan prevails Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Belgrade, Serbia Posts: 1,443	So, the opposite of this ? Last edited by Lord Aga; 02 September 2014 at 18:29.

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23 January 2014, 16:51	#2
jimbob Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kilmacolm Age: 46 Posts: 632	I just did a CD32 for the first time, my list matches yours but there a couple of things to look out for. The 2 big 1000uF caps are bulging because apparently most, (all?) CD32s have an error in the silkscreen and these parts have subsequently been installed backwards. Check carefully. No idea what happens to electros when installed and operated backwards for years but the ones I took out measure about 500uF both ways round Also according to the schematic C821, the 470uF through hole is the main filter cap on the +12V line. I replaced the 10V part with a 16V. These are a perfect fit - http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/pro...03&sku=1800634

23 January 2014, 17:04	#4
jimbob Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kilmacolm Age: 46 Posts: 632	I know it's hard to fathom them working all these years but just check with a continuity meter. The pads marked + on C811 and C408 go straight to ground.

23 January 2014, 17:26	#6
jimbob Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kilmacolm Age: 46 Posts: 632	I found the the pads marked - have continuity to +5V. 1300R to ground must just be the parallel resistance of the whole board between Vcc and ground. If you ask me, schematic is right, board is wrong. Amazing! I guess only being reversed polarity by half the rated voltage is not enough to pop them but the ones I took out were bulged at least as bad as in your pic. Better give the one I have a thorough burn in test just to be sure

23 January 2014, 19:37	#8
Amiga_CDTV Mind Walker Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Helsinki, Finland Posts: 165	Thanks for the list and especially thanks for the photos - really good reference to go by. When I got my CD32 couple of years back, I replaced the big caps (visibly bulged and installed backwards) and some of the small SMD caps; the ones that were looking bad (signs leakage or corrosion on component legs). I am not too keen on SMD caps (broke one or two pads during soldering, not fun) so I did it a bit lazy way. Before I did the re-cap I remember that the unit used to smell a bit fishy (as leaky electrolytics are often described) when it get warm. Now it just "smells warm" and not fishy anymore.

03 February 2014, 02:05	#9
kipper2k Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Thunder Bay, Canada Posts: 4,323	I did recap this CD32 and happy to say it looks good not only on the TV but pyhysically It was really rusty and nasty so i used some "Tremclad" antirust paint on it

01 September 2014, 22:54	#10
Lord Aga MI clan prevails Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Belgrade, Serbia Posts: 1,443	So what is the correct orientation for those two caps ? Grey stripes towards the power switch or away from it ? My caps are also bulging, and it's time to replace them. But which way ?

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