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Old 06 June 2012, 11:28   #1
Turran
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Broke IDE port on motherboard. Suitable replacement?

Heya.

I was replacing my HD in an A1200 and saw that 2 pins from the IDE port was missing (New disk was not detected at all).

Of course, the pins was in the other IDE cable, loose =)



Would this be a suitable replacement?

https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~eu_en/elfa...3-127-45&toc=0
(Note that the picture shows the wrong number of pins. Its actually 44 pins.

Also, anything special to think about when replacing it? I've soldered wires and things before, but nothing this tiny and precise. I was thinking of buying new equipment for soldering since I love doing it and need new stuff for this tiny soldering =) The one I have today would melt the entire card I think.

Last edited by Turran; 07 June 2012 at 17:31.
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Old 06 June 2012, 11:36   #2
roy bates
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yes thats it.


ive had a bit of luck replacing individuel pins on these by heating up the solder side and pushing the broken pin out with a needle then removing the solder from the hole with a solder sucker and pushing in a new pin and soldering it to finish.
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Old 06 June 2012, 13:12   #3
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Hmm good idea. Thanks.
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Old 06 June 2012, 15:31   #4
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well i think this is more look like

http://www.ebay.com/itm/44-Pin-Male-...item4159dfb5cd
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Old 06 June 2012, 22:58   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rampartsagain View Post
well i think this is more look like

http://www.ebay.com/itm/44-Pin-Male-...item4159dfb5cd
That's a gender-changer. Pads are required on the back, not pins!
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Old 06 June 2012, 23:11   #6
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I had a A600 with missing pins I just jumped the wire to kippers
Angled CF adapter..

http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=16712


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Old 06 June 2012, 23:22   #7
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Originally Posted by prowler View Post
That's a gender-changer. Pads are required on the back, not pins!



the ide on a 1200 pcb is through hole prowler,so its pins mate.if it wasent you wouldent be able to solder them on from underneath.
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Old 06 June 2012, 23:31   #8
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Thanks Roy,

But I thought that when the pins are pushed out from above they are found to have heads underneath, rather like round-headed nails - hence my reference to pads. Is that not so, then?
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Old 06 June 2012, 23:33   #9
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Thanks Roy,

But I thought that when the pins are pushed out from above they are found to have heads, rather like round-headed nails - hence my reference to pads. Is that not so, then?

no mate its a straight pin pushed into plastic,ive got a few here.

although you are right the one above is a straight connector but thats no big deal you can just trim them flush after soldering them.


basicly there the same,but the one end on the other side of the plastic is shorter thats all on the 1200 and 600.

Last edited by roy bates; 06 June 2012 at 23:40.
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Old 06 June 2012, 23:38   #10
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So they can actually be pulled out from above, once the solder joint is suitably molten? That would certainly make the job easier.

All my A1200 motherboards look like the pins have heads underneath. They look so secure. That's why I've always wondered why so many users have trouble with them working loose.

Quote:
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...you can just trim them flush after soldering them.
That's bad practise. You should always crop wires or pins first, and then solder them. That way there are no dissimilar metals exposed to encourage corrosion.
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Old 06 June 2012, 23:44   #11
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So they can actually be pulled out from above, once the solder joint is suitably molten? That would certainly make the job easier.

All my A1200 motherboards look like the pins have heads underneath. They look so secure. That's why I've always wondered why so many users have trouble with them working loose.



That's bad practise. You should always crop wires or pins first, and then solder them. That way there are no dissimilar metals exposed to encourage corrosion.



yep thats right mate,thats why i mentioned pushing it through with a pin if they have broken off flush with the plastic.


true, it is best to either get the right part or trim it first,thanks prowler.

Last edited by roy bates; 06 June 2012 at 23:51.
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Old 07 June 2012, 01:23   #12
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I had this problem myself on an A600 and found that leaking caps had rotted away most of the IDE pins.

Only one pin was missing at first, but upon putting a little pressure on the header the rest just crumbled away.

May I suggest that you test the integrity of the remaining pins prior to attempting a repair on the missing ones.

Capacitor C239 shows evidence of leakage, which prompted me to reply.

Best of luck
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Old 07 June 2012, 13:26   #13
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Good plan. A few pins on that side looks discolored now that I think about it. I'll give em a nudge to see how they hold up.

"plick plick". wops. I just grabbed some with a plyer and they popped right out. I think I'll try replacing the whole slot actually. Just got some new soldering iron and stuff today. Waiting for the ide port from Elfa.

C239 is not leaking though. What you see is dirt. I'll give it a good cleaning when the slot is gone.

Thanks for the advice everyone =)

The RF modulator looks a bit .. crappy. Any reason not to remove it?

Last edited by Turran; 07 June 2012 at 17:22.
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Old 07 June 2012, 20:54   #14
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The RF modulator looks a bit .. crappy. Any reason not to remove it?
Unless you need an RF output, there's absolutely no reason not to remove the modulator if you feel up to it.

Both the Composite and RGB video outputs are of a far superior quality.
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Old 07 June 2012, 22:43   #15
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well if your getting a new iron you might want to get some flux paste as well.and some ipa(isopropyl alcohol)you can use a paint brush to apply the paste and an old toothbrush for the ipa,comes up really well,.


i use a temprature controlled iron.but if you havent got one of these try to use one thats not too high in wattage so as not to burn traces etc.
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Old 07 June 2012, 22:49   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turran View Post
C239 is not leaking though. What you see is dirt. I'll give it a good cleaning when the slot is gone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turran View Post
A few pins on that side looks discolored now that I think about it.
If the pins come off so easily, it must be for a cause. I would change that cheapy cap too. @Cosmos can supply it.

Last edited by Retrofan; 08 June 2012 at 04:47.
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Old 08 June 2012, 03:20   #17
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Happy to be of help

(replace those caps!)
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Old 08 June 2012, 10:18   #18
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I did get a new soldering iron with temperature control. It goes up to 480c or something and I found that around ~300 was good enough to quickly remove the solder from the existing port and removing it.

Only hard part was sucking the liquid solder up. I got one of those pumps that goes "PLUNK" (hehe) and it did not get all the solder off it really. I had to hold it at an angle as not to touch the soldering iron and if I removed the soldering iron and quickly placed the pump over it, the solder was already hard again.. Need more practice I guess, or, since this was such a tight spot, one of those suction bands instead of a pump.

Anyway, the ide port is all gone now and it looks clean and nice. If anyone else is planning the same thing, I can say that the IDE port on the motherboard was actually not one big 44port plate but 2x22 ports, so you can replace only half of it if you like =) Still waiting on the new one.

If this works, I'll probably ruin the motherboard, but if it works, I'll replace the caps as well. Couldn't you buy a whole set of those from somewhere? Thought I saw that somewhere but can not remember from where.

Edit: Found this one:
http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=27413

If I look at the first cap needed, would this one work? Its got a higher voltage but that should be OK, no? Been a while since i was in school.
https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_sv/elfa...7-077-07&toc=0

Last edited by Turran; 08 June 2012 at 10:38.
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Old 08 June 2012, 12:21   #19
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Ok, going over that link again:
Quote:
2 pieces 1000μF x 10V
2 pieces 470μF x 16V
4 pieces 100μF x 6.3V
5 pieces 22μF x 25V
4 pieces 10μF x 35V
2 pieces 47μF x 16V

2 pieces 1000μF x 10V - Unsure about this one: https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~en_us/elfa...7-077-07&toc=0

2 pieces 470μF x 16V : https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~eu_en/elfa...tem=67-043-65&

4 pieces 100μF x 6.3V : https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~en_us/elfa...9-71&toc=19044

5 pieces 22μF x 25V : https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~en_us/elfa...2-66&toc=19044

4 pieces 10μF x 35V : https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~en_us/elfa...9-81&toc=19044

2 pieces 47μF x 16V : https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~en_us/elfa...9-76&toc=19044

Looks good?

Last edited by Turran; 08 June 2012 at 23:06.
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Old 08 June 2012, 12:25   #20
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looks good to me,after all you only have to do it once.


what does everyone else think?



actaully i cant remember which ones where for the sound,i surggest replacing those with polarised ones.

if anyone see's this can they say which ones they are on the motherboard please.
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