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Old 19 July 2021, 20:59   #1
Alien8
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How to remove SIMM's from GVP A500-HD+?

I need to remove, so I can change the, 30-pin SIMM's in my GVP Impact Series II A500-HD+.
But they don't get loose easly and I'm afraid of damaging the sockets, so can anyone advise me on what tools to use or how to do it?
Thx.
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Old 21 July 2021, 06:43   #2
SpaceAce
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If I remember correctly (it's been 29 years since I had one), the SIMMs are locked into place by a little metal spring/clip on each side. You need to push these out of the way with your thumb and the SIMM should just "pop up" so you can remove it.
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Old 23 July 2021, 11:07   #3
Alien8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpaceAce View Post
If I remember correctly (it's been 29 years since I had one), the SIMMs are locked into place by a little metal spring/clip on each side. You need to push these out of the way with your thumb and the SIMM should just "pop up" so you can remove it.
Thx for answering, but no, that's not how the simm's are held in place in this particular hardware.
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Old 24 July 2021, 09:49   #4
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Through the holes on either side of the SIMM, you can see little black clips, which hold them in.

You probably need to release the clips by pushing something in carefully through the hole and then pulling the SIMM up carefully.
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Old 24 July 2021, 11:55   #5
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I've just looked at mine. I changed the simms a few years ago. There's no clip that I can see, certainly not in the little holes, and two of my four bays are empty so I can look right in them. I don't recommend sticking anything in the holes, it won't make any difference anyway. I seem to remember gently using pliers to pull the simms out. A gentle pull on each side until they edge free, or suddenly come out. The angle they are at makes it a bit tricky. Just little pulls, increasing the the "pull factor" gradually until they move. A heart thumping moment! I bought mine for about £250 in the '90s so I was nervous about pulling them out, but it was fine.

Last edited by Toki; 24 July 2021 at 16:24. Reason: spelling
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Old 24 July 2021, 13:17   #6
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Thx for all your answers.
I'll have to try gently and carefully and hope it goes well.
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Old 24 July 2021, 14:27   #7
lilwshu
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I used a plastic spudger to press the little clip inwards on the right side first and use the spudger to pull that side out a bit via the hole in the SIMM, then did the same to the other side.
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Old 24 July 2021, 14:34   #8
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I thought there was a little clip holding them in - it looks like the hole is for pulling/levering them out

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Old 24 July 2021, 14:45   #9
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I used to have one of these and was never comfortable changing the simms, to the point where I just left it populated with 4mb even when I had different modules to put in it.
From memory, the spudger sounds like the most likely route to success, perhaps in combination with a pair of jewelers pliers (basically small pliers). Remember that old plastic is brittle. Ease them away gently. I broke the memory socket on a graphics (ati rage pro) card - the clips simply came away.
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Old 24 July 2021, 15:21   #10
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You just pull the SIMMs out..
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Old 29 July 2021, 11:12   #11
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Thanks to all who helped with this change of simm's.

So... what I did was to slide some thin transparent plastic strips between the simm's and the plastic locks protruding through the holes so when applying force on to the simm it could slide over the plastic lock.
Then I used a small flat head screw driver on the left and right sides of each socket to hold it in place when applying upward force on the simm with a small tip round tool.
I alternated from side to side, holding the socket under the hole with the screw driver and pushing up and slightly rocking back and forward the simm.
I've found out that the tip of the screw driver fit, without touching, between the contacts and the guides of the socket and that was a very good spot to hold the socket down.
Slowly and carefully, taking my time, I managed to pull all the simms out.
After checking the jumpers configuration for 8M and setting them, J12 -> pins 2 and 3 closed, J5 and J9 closed, J6 to J8 open, I checked the memory with AmigaTestKit and it seems it worked as it should.
After letting the memory test run for over 30 cycles I am confident that the memory is in good condition...

Success! ;-)
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Old 29 July 2021, 13:30   #12
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The picture confirms it, they're only held in place by friction. The little plastic clips that go into the holes on the SIMMs slide back when you pull the SIMM out. The sticks will get stuck in there when sat for many years, so it feels like they're quite solid. :-)
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Old 29 July 2021, 13:57   #13
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Well done with that. It looks as though you have the same setup as mine inside - SD card reader instead of SCSI Harddisk. I seem to remember having fun and games configuring workbench so that the harddisk is recognised. So let me know if you run into any problems if you don't already have it working.
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Old 30 July 2021, 11:11   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jope View Post
The picture confirms it, they're only held in place by friction. The little plastic clips that go into the holes on the SIMMs slide back when you pull the SIMM out.

The picture confirms no such thing.


Look closely at picture 3 (with the name 04.8M_jumpers_config.jpg).


There is a defined step at the lower edge of the clips that go through the holes which snaps the SIMMs into place and you need to push the plastic pins through before pulling up the SIMM.


If you don't push the pins through and keep them out of the way, as Alien8 has done with the thin clear plastic pieces, you would either damage this step, preventing the lock from working or, at worst, actually break the clip off completely.
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Old 30 July 2021, 12:00   #15
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My greatest apologies for suggesting such a thing.
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Old 30 July 2021, 12:49   #16
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There is no need to be condescending towards me.

Please can you point me to the section in the forum rules that say I'm not allowed to suggest that your statement may be incorrect?
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Old 30 July 2021, 13:26   #17
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That was the most polite way I could respond and admit I was wrong after getting furious at your tone of voice.

It is not that well known, but I am easy to trigger, 0-100 in 2 seconds, but I try so hard to reel myself in every day. Today was a bad day it seems.

I don't believe there is any mention in the rules about that. Keep on being you with what ever tone of voice you use, I'll keep on being me, the guy who is easy to trigger but tries his best not to show it most days. The global moderators will sort us out if we step out of line.

Have a nice day, any further discussion is not on topic in this thread, feel free to pm me if there is something else to say though.

If you feel you were treated unfairly, contact a global mod and get some justice delivered to me.
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Old 30 July 2021, 13:51   #18
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Quote:
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That was the most polite way I could respond and admit I was wrong after getting furious at your tone of voice.
You could actually hear his voice?

Could not find anything, but a very neutral correction. He was just stating facts, wasn't he?
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Old 30 July 2021, 14:14   #19
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"Tone of voice" is a term that can also be used to describe writing. https://www.nngroup.com/articles/ton...ce-dimensions/.

He was replying to me, I was in an easy to trigger mood and got pissed off when reading it. Gorf, why are you commenting, you are not involved. I even mentioned that we are not on topic.

I was already calmed down (quick to furious, quick to calm), but now I'm getting annoyed again. It's all a matter of perception. You as a bystander cannot feel what the people involved in a conversation feel. And we really are off topic. Further discussion about the series II angled simm sockets, PLEASE. If you have anything to comment about those off topic posts, PM, please.

Last edited by Jope; 30 July 2021 at 14:24.
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Old 31 July 2021, 00:32   #20
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but now I'm getting annoyed again.
Don't

Quote:
And we really are off topic. Further discussion about the series II angled simm sockets, PLEASE.
ok.
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