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Old 13 July 2013, 21:09   #1
zgba
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ACA1232 + mb 1d4 = #80000002

Hello everyone. I got my ACA1232 like two days ago and since then I'm getting more and more frustrated. I thought that it'll be rather straightforward to install it in my miggy, but well, not really. Everything I'm getting is the awful error message:

DH0
Program failed (error #80000002).
Wait for disk activity to finish.

And that's all she wrote. I started googling this one and found a thread about timing fixes. So I dug up my soldering iron and started tinkering around. Before I started this was my initial setup:

E121R: 27R
E122R: 27R
E121C: nothing
E122C: nothing
E123C: nothing
E123R: nothing
E125C: nothing
E125R: nothing

I did following modifications:

E121R: FB*
E122R: FB*
E121C: 22pF
E122C: 22pF
E123C: nothing
E123R: 27R
E125C: 22pF
E125R: 27R

*no idea about its characteristics; just desoldered it from a junk pcb.

But unfortunately still the same. I managed to boot ACA just once using Hombre (Workbench 2.1 gave me the same error message) and I saw the glorious 132+ MB of RAM, but that's all... And then my FDD controller refused to work

My current config:
A1200 rev 1D4
ROM 3.1 v40.68
HDD: fujitsu mkh2060at, 2 sfs partitions
OS3.9
FDD: no floppy drive at the moment, because of the faulty CIA (I think?)

Do you guys have any ideas?
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Old 13 July 2013, 22:38   #2
desiv
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80000002 is I think a "unrecoverable CPU error" message.

If it is a hardware issue, I'd look for a bad connection with the card (try cleaning the contacts on the card slot; remove and re-insert the card, etc).
Another thing I'd check for with a hardware issue would be the power supply.

I'm more of a software guy, so I thing about ruling those things out...
You managed you got the ACA to boot once using Hombre.
You mean just once using that disk, but not again using that disk, or it will boot fine every time with that disk?

Can you go into the early boot menu and boot with no startup sequence?
Is it fine in the initial CLI running basic commands (cd, list, etc)??

Good luck..

desiv
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Old 14 July 2013, 02:42   #3
demolition
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgba View Post
And that's all she wrote. I started googling this one and found a thread about timing fixes. So I dug up my soldering iron and started tinkering around. Before I started this was my initial setup:

E121R: 27R
E122R: 27R
E121C: nothing
E122C: nothing
E123C: nothing
E123R: nothing
E125C: nothing
E125R: nothing

I did following modifications:

E121R: FB*
E122R: FB*
E121C: 22pF
E122C: 22pF
E123C: nothing
E123R: 27R
E125C: 22pF
E125R: 27R
I also have a 1D4 with ACA1232, and I did the same changes. I had 123/125 all populated originally though, but removed E123C, ending up with exactly your current config. Btw, E123R doesn't matter when E123C isn't installed.
Mine is perfectly stable now, but if you don't know the value of the FB, that could be a reason. I used a 100 ohm@100MHz and that seemed to work. Also, not all Amigas are the same and may need different levels of fixes to work, but if the floppy drive stopped working, it seems to me there must be something else wrong as well.
I've attached some images of how my 1200 MB looks after the fix for reference.
Attached Thumbnails
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Name:	E121R_E122R_after.jpg
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Size:	100.8 KB
ID:	36037   Click image for larger version

Name:	E123_E125_after.jpg
Views:	276
Size:	110.0 KB
ID:	36038  
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Old 14 July 2013, 13:14   #4
zgba
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Hi guys, first of all many thanks for your replys.

@desiv - The contacts have been thoroughly cleaned with a pencil eraser, but I will do some continuity tests and check if there's everything ok later. I measured some voltages before posting this one and they seem to be ok - I'm getting about 4,95V on a 5V rail (with ACA and HDD connected) and about +/-11,85V on both 12V rails.
Hombre seemed to work fine like twice a row; I'm using the past tense because I'm unable to boot a floppy anymore; I think that one of the CIAs just died. I'm going to order two of them from Vesalia, but first I need a hot air rework station because I'm not going to desolder PLCCs using regular iron. I'm also thinking about using IC sockets, just in case
I can't boot the OS without startup sequence, it gives me the same error message.

@demolition - I'm not a very big fan of analog electronics, that's why I thought that a FB is a FB and I'll give it a try Do you maybe know which parameter is critical? Inductance, impedance, ... ? I know that it's kinda lame, but I can't find any suitable FB around and I don't want to end up using Farnell because of the ridiculously high shipping costs of this two little ones...
Regarding the FDD - I thought that the stepper motor was jammed, because when I turned the shaft it started working, so I decided to give it a good clean and after that my Miggy doesn't want to play with any floppy anymore. The drive itself is OK as I tested it on A600. Now if I insert a disk, it behaves as it would like to boot and then it instantly comes back to the initial screen, starts booting again etc. Kinda lame, huh?
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Old 14 July 2013, 13:47   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgba View Post
@demolition - I'm not a very big fan of analog electronics, that's why I thought that a FB is a FB and I'll give it a try Do you maybe know which parameter is critical? Inductance, impedance, ... ?
I know that it's kinda lame, but I can't find any suitable FB around and I don't want to end up using Farnell because of the ridiculously high shipping costs of this two little ones...
The parameter you normally use for FBs is the resistance at 100 MHz, although you can get some with a different Qs, where a high Q will allow you to attenuate some specific frequency instead of attenuating all high frequencies.
Instead of Farnell, maybe ebay could be useful? Here's a 60 ohm@100MHz FB with free shipping:
ebay link

Edit: Here's an example of how the impedance curve can look for a FB, with both having 600 ohm@100MHz:
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Old 14 July 2013, 20:16   #6
zgba
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Many thanks for the lesson I checked ebay but there's no free shipping to where I live. I'm going to ask some local electronics vendors about those parts and in the worst case I'll pay those 10 euros anyway. Tell me, how critical the resistance is? If I'm getting this right, everything between 50-100 ohms should do the trick, right? Or should I stick to the factory's 60 ohms?
This week I'll try to get those parts and I'll come back to you guys later. Keep the fingers crossed.
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Old 14 July 2013, 20:55   #7
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I used 100 ohm which worked out fine, but as that figure showed, the rated impedance isn't everything. Just try what you can get your hands on. If it works, the specs aren't too important.
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Old 15 July 2013, 00:15   #8
amiga1
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For the record, I have the same mobo rev and it's ntsc with the same error. I did the timing fix and I still have the same the error. I was thinking it was the fastata or the cf card, but nothing ever did fix the error. ATM, I've given up on it/ If you find a solution please post it.

Cheers
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Old 15 July 2013, 01:33   #9
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Have you asked for support from your dealer?
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Old 15 July 2013, 06:39   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duga View Post
Have you asked for support from your dealer?
That's why the timing fixes were done.
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Old 15 July 2013, 11:51   #11
zgba
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All rightey, I made some phone calls today and found a local vendor. They will get for me a lot of 25 FBs for like 2$. Then we'll see how critical they are. Keep the fingers crossed.

BTW, does anyone know how to measure those timings? What equipment do I need? 2 channel scope to see both original and shifted value or an analyzer to see more things at once? I know that I can get to the point where buying a new mobo would be the best choice, but you know, I love it when a plan comes together
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Old 16 July 2013, 15:49   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgba View Post
Hi guys, first of all many thanks for your replys.

@desiv - The contacts have been thoroughly cleaned with a pencil eraser, but I will do some continuity tests and check if there's everything ok later. I measured some voltages before posting this one and they seem to be ok - I'm getting about 4,95V on a 5V rail (with ACA and HDD connected) and about +/-11,85V on both 12V rails.
Hombre seemed to work fine like twice a row; I'm using the past tense because I'm unable to boot a floppy anymore; I think that one of the CIAs just died. I'm going to order two of them from Vesalia, but first I need a hot air rework station because I'm not going to desolder PLCCs using regular iron. I'm also thinking about using IC sockets, just in case
I can't boot the OS without startup sequence, it gives me the same error message.

@demolition - I'm not a very big fan of analog electronics, that's why I thought that a FB is a FB and I'll give it a try Do you maybe know which parameter is critical? Inductance, impedance, ... ? I know that it's kinda lame, but I can't find any suitable FB around and I don't want to end up using Farnell because of the ridiculously high shipping costs of this two little ones...
Regarding the FDD - I thought that the stepper motor was jammed, because when I turned the shaft it started working, so I decided to give it a good clean and after that my Miggy doesn't want to play with any floppy anymore. The drive itself is OK as I tested it on A600. Now if I insert a disk, it behaves as it would like to boot and then it instantly comes back to the initial screen, starts booting again etc. Kinda lame, huh?
To remove those PLCC without hot air rework buy some of that quikchip solder stuff, its solder with very low melting point - you just melt over all pins, move iron all around for 20 secs and all pins will be loose for 10 secs or so. Them you wont damage PCB or the existing chips
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Old 16 July 2013, 15:51   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GadgetUK View Post
To remove those PLCC without hot air rework buy some of that quikchip solder stuff, its solder with very low melting point - you just melt over all pins, move iron all around for 20 secs and all pins will be loose for 10 secs or so. Them you wont damage PCB or the existing chips
Also get some flux as you'll need to use that with QuikChip. Some desoldering braid will also be handy in cleaning up the place after the chip has been removed.
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Old 16 July 2013, 16:02   #14
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Also get some flux as you'll need to use that with QuikChip. Some desoldering braid will also be handy in cleaning up the place after the chip has been removed.
Yes ^ good advice!
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Old 16 July 2013, 22:10   #15
zgba
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Hi Guys,

the good news are, I finally got some 50 ohm ferrite beads. Bad news are, they didn't really help. I'm still getting the same error message I'm going to test some combinations later on an I'll try to go through some documentation to get the general feeling how does it work. But I really could use some advice. Any ideas?

@GadgetUK & demolition - I've heard about QuikChip but I didn't have a chance to use it. Normally I used to desolder SMD chips using some braid, needle or transformer wire and lots of patience. I'm out of the last one and I have a few electronics projects where a rework station could come in handy, besides my WAF (wife acceptance factor ) is on the safe level right now, so it is a good opportunity to buy one.
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Old 31 August 2013, 13:11   #16
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Hey @zgba, did you manage to solve your boards' issues? I'm having the same problems in here...

Thanks.
 
Old 01 September 2013, 09:30   #17
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Moving the accelerator slightly backwards from the connector can also help. It worked for an ACA1230/56 here .
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Old 02 September 2013, 15:25   #18
zgba
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@MadHatt3r - No, not really. I don't think that my ACA is going to work with this board revision. I'm hunting for another one right now.
@Bamiga2002 - And what happened before you realised that this is the issue? Yeah, it won't hurt, I'll try it later, thanks.
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Old 02 September 2013, 15:29   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demolition View Post
Btw, E123R doesn't matter when E123C isn't installed.
Please explain as this will confuse people.
E123R Does matter as its still connected to the circuit.
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Old 02 September 2013, 16:11   #20
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Please explain as this will confuse people.
E123R Does matter as its still connected to the circuit.
If E123C is removed, E123R is not part of the circuit.

See schematic. E123R and E123C is connected in series between the 7MHz clock line and Gnd. If any one of them is removed, the remaining component will have no function (no current).

Same goes for E125C/R.
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