10 August 2020, 16:14 | #21 | |
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It did work when I pulled it out from one of my PCs but that was a couple of years ago now. I just remembered of these floppy drives now, one was easy, this one a little harder.
Quote:
Both Pin 10 and pin 12 are 4.7v. When I do a signal test Pin 10 goes to 0.7v and pin 12 remains at 4.7v. I have checked all the pins and traces where I have cut and there is no link between them. Only think strange I found is pin 14 (/DRVSA), I cannot trace this to IC1 chip. For pins 10 and 12 I have also checked if maybe they are short with ground but can confirm no. Last edited by Sim085; 10 August 2020 at 16:55. |
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10 August 2020, 18:25 | #22 |
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That sounds like it is pulling DS0 pin down near enough to ground. Check that it is doing the same at the IC1 chip.
Also check the /TRK0 pin 26 too - does this get pulled down to 0V when the the read/write head should be at track 0? |
10 August 2020, 19:08 | #23 |
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I cannot notice a voltage drop when the drive should be at track 0 (i.e. - when doing a Signal Test). However I can trace this back to the IC1 chip.
... I do not know if this makes any difference... but when ATK, in Signal Test screen, when I press F5 it starts the motor, but if I press F5 again it does not stop (like it does on other drives) it simply continues. F6 also seems to do nothing. |
10 August 2020, 19:57 | #24 |
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F6 should alternately step in and out of track 0. However, if the drive select is not working then this won't work either.
Unless you can prove that it works as a PC drive, then we can't rule it out as a faulty drive with a faulty controller chip. |
10 August 2020, 20:44 | #25 |
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I agree. To be honest everything looks connected and therefore I can only conclude that either the drive was faulty, or I must have done something to make it unhappy.
Well I did manage to convert another drive (not same type, was easier) so still happy. Thank you to all for the help and advice. I still learnt a lot |
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