Soldering hints

sarek2k · 14 February 2007, 00:34

another one here without any soldering skills sarek + soldering iron = destruction

anyone fancy starting a soldering skool

Magno Boots · 14 February 2007, 00:43

Yes, I would like some handy hints on soldering also.

alexh · 14 February 2007, 10:08

If anyone wants some soldering lessons I could arrange for them over the net. You'd need to have a web cam + broadband + reasonable soldering iron.

The practice parts would cost only a few pounds from your nearest Maplin electronics shop.

Two weeks, 10 mins a night and before you know it anything above the lowest surface mount pitch will be easy.

The hardest part about soldering is learning how to hold 3-4 things with two hands. The Solder, the Soldering Iron and the wire and the thing you are soldering.

The second hardest part is knowing how much solder to use and how long to leave the soldering iron in contact with the thing you are soldering. I always used too little solder and took the soldering iron away too soon as I was frightened of breaking things.

Third hardest part, good tools. Cheap crap soldering irons with tips the size of bournmouth are useless. The soldering iron tip should go to a pencil type point, ideally be temperature controlled and be the right weight.

Throw your solder suckers away and use solder braid to get rid of unwanted solder.

Keep the solder tip clean and cool, dab it in the damp sponge that is part of your soldering iron stand between solders.

Jope · 14 February 2007, 10:49

Solder suckers are good for removing through hole components, but for everything else, like solder spills or bridges, use braid like Alex said.

I might also add that the soldering iron must be powerful enough, but not too powerful. Something like 50W is quite ok and should handle most electronics soldering situations.

Try to get an iron with some kind of thermostat.

Don't attempt to solder while your iron is still heating up, if it's a slowly heating iron. Wait until it's hot enough, otherwise you will get really bad joints.

Smiley · 14 February 2007, 21:35

Put a dab of solder on the end of the iron to get the heat going

Cover wire ends in solder before soldering (tinning?)

Dab/wipe the iron on a damp sponge often

Having more solder doesnt make a better connection. Use just enough

Zetr0 · 15 February 2007, 00:31

I use a clamping station with directional lights and upto 2 magnifying glasses depending on project.

you could use a simple modelers 2/4 arm clamp there quite handy

a point to mention that i am sure is a moot point but its all well and having a good 0.4cm or lower tip you MUST have a good solder as well...

even though its more expensive for anything audio I like to use a gold-solder, its best you know what your doing with a soldering iron as gold-solder is damn expensive (as you might think) (about £5 per 8 inches (20cm) lol)

truth is though a decent quality solder with a good dirt-free connection will do.. it is in this that flux is your friend, in making a good quality weld, a smidge of flux goes a very long way!

@alexh
I would be very interested in viewing some of your techniques

it would be cool to record them an have like a little soldering-school

if you need a server for streaming.... just let me know

lopos2000 · 15 February 2007, 09:20

Here is a nice website that gives you the basic of 'How to desolder components.'
---> Linky

alexh · 15 February 2007, 09:38

That isnt a great link.

That guy is doing everything we said not to do.

He's got a VERY cheap, rubbish soldering iron. The tip is bigger than the bow of the Titanic.

He recommends cleaning the area with alcohol before introducing high temperatures. Fire alert!! Use it after you've desoldered and wait a long time for it to evaporate.

Not using solder braid, made life 2x more complicated.

Use a metal screwdriver to push the component and clean the resist off WTF? If you've desoldered properly the component just "wiggles" free! I am suprised he didnt accidentally cut through the tracks.

If you need to clean up excess flux & PCB mask resist after you have desolderd, you use an abrasive fiberglass pen! That way you cannot accidentally cut through a track!

lopos2000 · 15 February 2007, 10:59

@alexh
As I said, it gives you the basic idea. I know it's not the best way to desolder components.

Chain · 15 February 2007, 12:20

So im ordering today one good soldering iron, one hotair rework station and couple of accesories thingies.

will be ready to classes i hope .)

Chain · 15 February 2007, 13:00

my god

lopos2000 · 15 February 2007, 13:04

If someone needs a Desoldering station I have a spare one.
It's a APE EX-525 Desoldering system. Fully working. For more info PM me.

Jope · 15 February 2007, 18:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chain

my god

Hahaha! Looks like the quality work little Jope did when he was 10 years old and had his first soldering iron (cost the equivalent of 10 euro, one of those orange-handled beasts that plugs straight into a power outlet). :-D

Seriously, please don't anyone take heed to the instructions at hardwaresecrets. That is no way to treat your precious circuit boards.

You'll only end up with burnt and lifted traces.

sarek2k · 15 February 2007, 18:58

wow only just noticed this

pics guys, lots of pics or maybe movies even!

great work to all concerned tho big up guys!

i think i'll start with summat in a budget range and start with stuff like soldering speakers etc learn the basics first!

Zetr0 · 15 February 2007, 21:23

@sarek2k
I cannot stress enough my friend the importance of a good quality Iron and bit... without them..

It doesn`t have to cost much a good £25 well spent wll save sooooo much stress and hassle down the line...

heres what i would recomend....

(jope / alexh jump in here at will too

)

heres a good iron
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/20W-LEAD-FREE-...QQcmdZViewItem

"this is only a 20watt solution, bare this in mind if you start using heavier thicker solder *like the cheap ass nasty stuff* it will take an age to flow!"

heres some good quality solder too

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3M-LEAD-FREE-S...QQcmdZViewItem

I have bought from this seller quite a lot before ALWAYS good !

This is a good solution for arround £20, you can get extra-bits for the iron to giving you greater access to REALLY small welds!

lets see what others suggest...

you got £20.... I would be very interested in seeing what alexh and jope would buy

Jope · 15 February 2007, 22:37

I would buy a soldering station like this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WELLER-WTCPS-S...QQcmdZViewItem

And a nice and small new tip for it. Suitable bit temperatures are 7 or 8 for normal soldering, perhaps even 6, although it is on the low side.

The temp control is based on the curie effect: when the bit cools down enough, it attracts a magnet which in turn switches on the power. Then when it reaches the designated temperature, the magnet gets pulled back by a spring and the power is switched off.

It's also powerful enough (50W) for solder spots in larger ground planes, yet thanks to the magnastat, it will not overheat and you still have a good power reserve when you need to heat something.

One of the nicest things about it is that when you flip the switch, it reaches soldering temperature in less than a minute.

Weller is not a pro manufacturer, but the tools they make are very good for hobbyists like us.

I have had my W-TCP/S for .. er.. 13 years now and it's still going strong.. You could say I'm biased, but I have been very satisfied with mine.

Zetr0 · 15 February 2007, 23:31

good info jope!

lopos2000 · 15 February 2007, 23:47

I have a WTCPS combined with a IG101 and it's superb for soldering and desoldering.

Secret Vampire · 17 February 2007, 13:15

I use a weller whs 40 temperature controlled station, not as nice as the TCP ones, but a lot cheaper, and has a good temperature range so I can turn it way down for delicate SMT work, or all the way up for valve kit. Though I have a pencil tip for fine work, for general through-hole or point to point wiring, I prefer to use a screwdriver style flat tip, it's easier to make good contact with pads and component leads, and the larger tip area means it holds heat better than a long thin tip, of course, weller use the thinnest of thin nickel plating on the flat tips, so they don't last very long at all.

Other things, neither solder suckers or braid are great, generally I prefer a good sucker, but the ideal choice is a vacuum rework station, but they're expensive, so only really an option if you intend to do a lot of repair or component salvage. Artery forceps are invaluable for gripping wires and positioning parts in difficult locations, and since they lock, can be pushed into service as a heatsink when soldering temperature sensitive parts. Minature vices are useful for holding plugs in place while you solder wires to them, if soldering DIN, and especially mini DIN plugs, I find it helps to put them in a socket before soldering to them, the plastic they use for the bodies melts quite easily, the plug holds the pins in place during the inevitably fiddly operation of soldering the wires on.
Gas irons are a pain in the ass, and should be avoided, except possibly as a cheap source of hot air for smt rework with the appropriate hot air head, soldering guns are great, but totally unsuitable for any form of computer repair other than degaussing monitors.

dambuster · 18 February 2007, 23:38

I use this one for small projects
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...35016&doy=18m2
and a weller 75W blunderbus for soldering up batteries etc (for the R/C cars)

14 February 2007, 00:43	#2
Magno Boots Zone Friend Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hertfordshire Posts: 688	Yes, I would like some handy hints on soldering also. Last edited by Magno Boots; 14 February 2007 at 23:16.

14 February 2007, 10:08	#3
alexh Thalion Webshrine Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Oxford Posts: 14,334	If anyone wants some soldering lessons I could arrange for them over the net. You'd need to have a web cam + broadband + reasonable soldering iron. The practice parts would cost only a few pounds from your nearest Maplin electronics shop. Two weeks, 10 mins a night and before you know it anything above the lowest surface mount pitch will be easy. The hardest part about soldering is learning how to hold 3-4 things with two hands. The Solder, the Soldering Iron and the wire and the thing you are soldering. The second hardest part is knowing how much solder to use and how long to leave the soldering iron in contact with the thing you are soldering. I always used too little solder and took the soldering iron away too soon as I was frightened of breaking things. Third hardest part, good tools. Cheap crap soldering irons with tips the size of bournmouth are useless. The soldering iron tip should go to a pencil type point, ideally be temperature controlled and be the right weight. Throw your solder suckers away and use solder braid to get rid of unwanted solder. Keep the solder tip clean and cool, dab it in the damp sponge that is part of your soldering iron stand between solders. Last edited by alexh; 14 February 2007 at 10:20.

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14 February 2007, 00:34	#1
sarek2k E.A.B Addict and Proud Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: England Age: 56 Posts: 543	another one here without any soldering skills sarek + soldering iron = destruction anyone fancy starting a soldering skool

14 February 2007, 10:49	#4
Jope - Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Helsinki / Finland Age: 43 Posts: 9,861	Solder suckers are good for removing through hole components, but for everything else, like solder spills or bridges, use braid like Alex said. I might also add that the soldering iron must be powerful enough, but not too powerful. Something like 50W is quite ok and should handle most electronics soldering situations. Try to get an iron with some kind of thermostat. Don't attempt to solder while your iron is still heating up, if it's a slowly heating iron. Wait until it's hot enough, otherwise you will get really bad joints.

14 February 2007, 21:35	#5
Smiley Amiga-less! Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: UK Posts: 1,350	Put a dab of solder on the end of the iron to get the heat going Cover wire ends in solder before soldering (tinning?) Dab/wipe the iron on a damp sponge often Having more solder doesnt make a better connection. Use just enough

15 February 2007, 00:31	#6
Zetr0 Ya' like it Retr0? Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: United Kingdom Age: 49 Posts: 9,768	I use a clamping station with directional lights and upto 2 magnifying glasses depending on project. you could use a simple modelers 2/4 arm clamp there quite handy a point to mention that i am sure is a moot point but its all well and having a good 0.4cm or lower tip you MUST have a good solder as well... even though its more expensive for anything audio I like to use a gold-solder, its best you know what your doing with a soldering iron as gold-solder is damn expensive (as you might think) (about £5 per 8 inches (20cm) lol) truth is though a decent quality solder with a good dirt-free connection will do.. it is in this that flux is your friend, in making a good quality weld, a smidge of flux goes a very long way! @alexh I would be very interested in viewing some of your techniques it would be cool to record them an have like a little soldering-school if you need a server for streaming.... just let me know

15 February 2007, 09:20	#7
lopos2000 Zone Friend Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Cider is best In The West Posts: 1,238	Here is a nice website that gives you the basic of 'How to desolder components.' ---> Linky

15 February 2007, 09:38	#8
alexh Thalion Webshrine Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Oxford Posts: 14,334	That isnt a great link. That guy is doing everything we said not to do. He's got a VERY cheap, rubbish soldering iron. The tip is bigger than the bow of the Titanic. He recommends cleaning the area with alcohol before introducing high temperatures. Fire alert!! Use it after you've desoldered and wait a long time for it to evaporate. Not using solder braid, made life 2x more complicated. Use a metal screwdriver to push the component and clean the resist off WTF? If you've desoldered properly the component just "wiggles" free! I am suprised he didnt accidentally cut through the tracks. If you need to clean up excess flux & PCB mask resist after you have desolderd, you use an abrasive fiberglass pen! That way you cannot accidentally cut through a track!

15 February 2007, 10:59	#9
lopos2000 Zone Friend Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Cider is best In The West Posts: 1,238	@alexh As I said, it gives you the basic idea. I know it's not the best way to desolder components.

15 February 2007, 12:20	#10
Chain A-Collector, repairments Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Czech Rep. Age: 50 Posts: 1,536	So im ordering today one good soldering iron, one hotair rework station and couple of accesories thingies. will be ready to classes i hope .)

15 February 2007, 13:00	#11
Chain A-Collector, repairments Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Czech Rep. Age: 50 Posts: 1,536	my god

15 February 2007, 13:04	#12
lopos2000 Zone Friend Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Cider is best In The West Posts: 1,238	If someone needs a Desoldering station I have a spare one. It's a APE EX-525 Desoldering system. Fully working. For more info PM me.

15 February 2007, 18:58	#14
sarek2k E.A.B Addict and Proud Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: England Age: 56 Posts: 543	wow only just noticed this pics guys, lots of pics or maybe movies even! great work to all concerned tho big up guys! i think i'll start with summat in a budget range and start with stuff like soldering speakers etc learn the basics first!

15 February 2007, 21:23	#15
Zetr0 Ya' like it Retr0? Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: United Kingdom Age: 49 Posts: 9,768	@sarek2k I cannot stress enough my friend the importance of a good quality Iron and bit... without them.. It doesn`t have to cost much a good £25 well spent wll save sooooo much stress and hassle down the line... heres what i would recomend.... (jope / alexh jump in here at will too ) heres a good iron http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/20W-LEAD-FREE-...QQcmdZViewItem "this is only a 20watt solution, bare this in mind if you start using heavier thicker solder like the cheap ass nasty stuff it will take an age to flow!" heres some good quality solder too http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3M-LEAD-FREE-S...QQcmdZViewItem I have bought from this seller quite a lot before ALWAYS good ! This is a good solution for arround £20, you can get extra-bits for the iron to giving you greater access to REALLY small welds! lets see what others suggest... you got £20.... I would be very interested in seeing what alexh and jope would buy

15 February 2007, 22:37	#16
Jope - Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Helsinki / Finland Age: 43 Posts: 9,861	I would buy a soldering station like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WELLER-WTCPS-S...QQcmdZViewItem And a nice and small new tip for it. Suitable bit temperatures are 7 or 8 for normal soldering, perhaps even 6, although it is on the low side. The temp control is based on the curie effect: when the bit cools down enough, it attracts a magnet which in turn switches on the power. Then when it reaches the designated temperature, the magnet gets pulled back by a spring and the power is switched off. It's also powerful enough (50W) for solder spots in larger ground planes, yet thanks to the magnastat, it will not overheat and you still have a good power reserve when you need to heat something. One of the nicest things about it is that when you flip the switch, it reaches soldering temperature in less than a minute. Weller is not a pro manufacturer, but the tools they make are very good for hobbyists like us. I have had my W-TCP/S for .. er.. 13 years now and it's still going strong.. You could say I'm biased, but I have been very satisfied with mine.

15 February 2007, 23:31	#17
Zetr0 Ya' like it Retr0? Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: United Kingdom Age: 49 Posts: 9,768	good info jope!

15 February 2007, 23:47	#18
lopos2000 Zone Friend Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Cider is best In The West Posts: 1,238	I have a WTCPS combined with a IG101 and it's superb for soldering and desoldering.

17 February 2007, 13:15	#19
Secret Vampire Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Birmingham UK Age: 42 Posts: 214	I use a weller whs 40 temperature controlled station, not as nice as the TCP ones, but a lot cheaper, and has a good temperature range so I can turn it way down for delicate SMT work, or all the way up for valve kit. Though I have a pencil tip for fine work, for general through-hole or point to point wiring, I prefer to use a screwdriver style flat tip, it's easier to make good contact with pads and component leads, and the larger tip area means it holds heat better than a long thin tip, of course, weller use the thinnest of thin nickel plating on the flat tips, so they don't last very long at all. Other things, neither solder suckers or braid are great, generally I prefer a good sucker, but the ideal choice is a vacuum rework station, but they're expensive, so only really an option if you intend to do a lot of repair or component salvage. Artery forceps are invaluable for gripping wires and positioning parts in difficult locations, and since they lock, can be pushed into service as a heatsink when soldering temperature sensitive parts. Minature vices are useful for holding plugs in place while you solder wires to them, if soldering DIN, and especially mini DIN plugs, I find it helps to put them in a socket before soldering to them, the plastic they use for the bodies melts quite easily, the plug holds the pins in place during the inevitably fiddly operation of soldering the wires on. Gas irons are a pain in the ass, and should be avoided, except possibly as a cheap source of hot air for smt rework with the appropriate hot air head, soldering guns are great, but totally unsuitable for any form of computer repair other than degaussing monitors.

18 February 2007, 23:38	#20
dambuster Zone Friend Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Dundee / Scotland Posts: 151	I use this one for small projects http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...35016&doy=18m2 and a weller 75W blunderbus for soldering up batteries etc (for the R/C cars)

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