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Old 03 February 2015, 23:27   #21
klx300r
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WoW

I want one for my Amiga 1000!!! congrats on your amazing project, just awesome stuff
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Old 05 February 2015, 03:46   #22
Zippy Zapp
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All I can say is wow. Nice job. You know, the dedicated, amazing people that exist in the Commodore & Amiga community is just incredible.

I think of all the people making hardware and software and All I can says is you people are amazing! So glad I did not let my favorite computers go away.

Is this device using the default firmware that is installed on the VDIP1 which if I read right is the VDAP? Or is it a custom?

Last edited by Zippy Zapp; 05 February 2015 at 04:28.
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Old 05 February 2015, 10:55   #23
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Originally Posted by Zippy Zapp View Post
Is this device using the default firmware that is installed on the VDIP1 which if I read right is the VDAP? Or is it a custom?
Yes, It's the VDAP 3.69 firmware, but It should run on all firmwares.
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Old 05 February 2015, 18:17   #24
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Yes, It's the VDAP 3.69 firmware, but It should run on all firmwares.
Good to know, thanks and awesome job! Can't wait to see the designs and try it out.
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Old 05 February 2015, 19:24   #25
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I have the soldering skills of a jellyfish. Can I pay you to make one for me?

Thanks.
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Old 05 February 2015, 22:58   #26
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Sorry, I'm not going to build it for anybody (I have no time).
But don't worry, I'm going to post all details to make it, and for sure someone would be willing to build it for you.
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Old 05 February 2015, 23:40   #27
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This is really nice. Congrats, and I hope that you will continue to work on this project.
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Old 06 February 2015, 04:55   #28
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@watsonfmly
Sorry, I'm not going to build it for anybody (I have no time).
But don't worry, I'm going to post all details to make it, and for sure someone would be willing to build it for you.
Did you have the circuit board "printed" via a service or was this made by hand? Will end users be able to have it manufactured at one of the places that create boards for hobbyists?

I love how it is through-hole technology, which for me makes it easier to assemble as I have not soldered any surface mount things before.

I am still a novice at electronics and circuit boards but I am learning.
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Old 06 February 2015, 09:30   #29
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Hello Ferix!
Very nice job: merry compliments.
The needed components are very few beside the USB board with FTDI chip.
It seems you already did a clean design of the PCB, but, just in case, I would suggest a different layout.
Placing the USB module on top, parallel to the "parallel port" :-) and the rest of components just below, to make the interface more compact.
In this way you have the USB socket facing on the right if you plug the stuff directly into the parallel port of an A500.
Is external power supply really needed? 5V or 3.3V?
Thanks for your work!
 
Old 06 February 2015, 10:30   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zippy Zapp View Post
Did you have the circuit board "printed" via a service or was this made by hand? Will end users be able to have it manufactured at one of the places that create boards for hobbyists?

I love how it is through-hole technology, which for me makes it easier to assemble as I have not soldered any surface mount things before.

I am still a novice at electronics and circuit boards but I am learning.
A bit off topic, I stumbled on this yesterday and am thinking of ordering it. Looks good for experiments and SMD solcer practice .

Trough hole is easier, but you have to drill the holes if you're doing it by hand. With SMD components you just need to "stick" them to the board and you're done .

OP's board looks handmade, machined ones are usually green, red or black.

Anyways, can't wait, it's been a while since I built something .
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Old 06 February 2015, 10:44   #31
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Is external power supply really needed? 5V or 3.3V?
Thanks for your work!
Auto-answer: no, parallel port can supply on +5V with 10mA, so external PSU is needed sadly...
 
Old 06 February 2015, 12:43   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zippy Zapp View Post
I love how it is through-hole technology, which for me makes it easier to assemble as I have not soldered any surface mount things before.
Surface mounted components are not hard to solder, at least if you have the right tools. Actually I think it is nicer to work with than through-hole, particularly for rework.

SMD can be soldered using a normal electronics soldering iron and solder, but a fine tip and fine solder makes it a little easier to make it look nice.

The most important thing IMHO for SMD work is some proper tweezers like this one:


This allows you to hold on to and move the component around accurately before soldering.
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Old 06 February 2015, 17:02   #33
Zippy Zapp
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Originally Posted by Solo761 View Post
A bit off topic, I stumbled on this yesterday and am thinking of ordering it. Looks good for experiments and SMD solcer practice .

Trough hole is easier, but you have to drill the holes if you're doing it by hand. With SMD components you just need to "stick" them to the board and you're done .

OP's board looks handmade, machined ones are usually green, red or black.

Anyways, can't wait, it's been a while since I built something .
Thanks for the info. I was more thinking of the companies that will do the board for you from the design, even in little quantity and I have been told that some will even do a single quantity. In those cases they do all the drilling and you get back a masked board ready for soldering components.


Quote:
Originally Posted by demolition View Post
Surface mounted components are not hard to solder, at least if you have the right tools. Actually I think it is nicer to work with than through-hole, particularly for rework.

SMD can be soldered using a normal electronics soldering iron and solder, but a fine tip and fine solder makes it a little easier to make it look nice.

The most important thing IMHO for SMD work is some proper tweezers like this one:


This allows you to hold on to and move the component around accurately before soldering.
My thoughts on through-hole is mainly because it is all I have ever soldered. And I am not the best at that either, but getting better with each project I do.

I have replaced through-hole caps and found it to be fairly easy, desolder/pump, clean and re-solder. If and when I have to do that on an A1200 it is a whole lot more complicated as things are smaller and tighter. My understanding is if you don't do it just right you are going to wreck the board and or desolder neighboring tiny resisters or other components. Compare that to replacing a cap in an A2000 and it sure seems easier to me, but I am still a rookie...

I did watch a video on using solder paste and a heat gun to install some SMDs and that looks pretty easy. But the pros, especially on this forum, always make it look easy! So I try not to go by what it looks like only what I can do or have done. Perhaps I need to get a little SMD project board and try out some techniques that I have seen. I'll get those tweezers too, thanks for the pic!

At any rate this project looks great and can't wait to give it a go.
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Old 10 February 2015, 17:58   #34
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And you're watching it develop almost real time.
 
Old 10 February 2015, 19:49   #35
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Hey!!!, welcome to EAB Oscar!!!

@All
I'm now trying to overcome a flu that tied me to my bed for the last four days, so the development was somewhat stopped, but I managed to record a brief video showing the interface working.
[ Show youtube player ]

Last edited by ferix; 10 February 2015 at 23:04.
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Old 16 February 2015, 17:38   #36
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Added the instructions and the binary driver to the first post of this topic.
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Old 16 February 2015, 19:11   #37
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Fantastic. Thank You! Do you know if anyone that is going to make a run of these PCBs?

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Old 16 February 2015, 19:43   #38
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If you have a bit of a chemist in you you can try making one yourself .

Thanks, ferix
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Old 16 February 2015, 20:31   #39
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Thanks ferix, looking forward to testing it out!
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Old 16 February 2015, 21:32   #40
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Added the instructions and the binary driver to the first post of this topic.
hope your over your flu by now!
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