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Old 01 February 2019, 17:05   #1
solarmon
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Amiga 1200 - dealing with rust

Hi,

What is the common/general consensus of what to do with rusted shielding?

Should it just be scrapped? Does the Amiga really need it?

Or should I try to restore it? If so, what is the best method?

Cheers!
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Last edited by solarmon; 02 February 2019 at 01:14.
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Old 01 February 2019, 20:05   #2
deladrevoc
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This may give you some ideas, from 6 mins 20:

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Old 02 February 2019, 01:03   #3
pandy71
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You can use this method - i strongly disagree with their approach to PCB tin plating but this method will work nicely for rusty Amiga shield - remove rust mechanically to clean metal (sanding paper? steel wool?), apply tin paste with firm brush (should be stiff so you can apply very thin layer of tin flux). Then use hot air gun to melt tin - you should be able to restore original look and function (as shield is made from tin plated steel).

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Old 02 February 2019, 01:22   #4
solarmon
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Thanks for the tips.

The plumbers paste method is an interesting one, but I think it won't be practical for the whole of the shielding?

I might just try the sanding down, then use the primer and silver spray paint method.

I wish somebody would do a whole bottom shield replacement - like this blanking plate:

https://centuriontech.eu/product/a12...shield-blank/:

Cheers!
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Old 02 February 2019, 13:02   #5
deladrevoc
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Don't forget the insulation layer when you reassemble …

https://amigakit.amiga.store/product...roducts_id=611
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Old 02 February 2019, 23:43   #6
Predseda
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Amiga needs the lower shielding, because all the rear ports are attached to it. Thats all.
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Old 03 February 2019, 00:46   #7
solarmon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deladrevoc View Post
Don't forget the insulation layer when you reassemble …

https://amigakit.amiga.store/product...roducts_id=611
Yeah, I thought the one in my Amiga 1200 was a gonna with all that rust mark on it. However, after a bit of elbow grease, all the rust marks came off nicely and it was OK to use.

That saved me £3.60!
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Old 09 February 2019, 14:48   #8
solarmon
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I got some sandpaper (No. 120) and removed as much as I could by hand.

See before and after shots. The most amazing thing is that I only managed to get 1 cut from the process!

I'm happy with the result so far, but might use a rotary tool to get at the tight corners and edges.

I got some DECOCOLOR RUST BLOCKER 4in1 ANTICORROSIVE METAL ANTIRUST HOME GARDEN SPRAY PAINT from eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DECOCOLOR...72.m2749.l2649

I'm still considering whether to use this or not. I'll test it out on the small bit of shielding that covers the memory (?) chip and see how that turns out.
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Last edited by solarmon; 09 February 2019 at 19:14.
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Old 09 February 2019, 18:28   #9
zipper
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Something like this, based on phosphoric acid
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Old 09 February 2019, 19:01   #10
Mick
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I was going to recommend the centuriontech.eu backplates, they're quality. I doubt EMF interference is as big an issue these days so all the shielding really does is give support to the motherboard connectors and in the case of older motherboard revisions hold the mouse port - the centuriontech backplates do both perfectly. In fact if they're reading they should make some for A500 motherboards since new cases are released soon.
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Old 29 March 2019, 17:29   #11
solarmon
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Hi,

Just an update. I had a day off work and since it was nice and sunny here in the UK, I decided to finally spray paint the metal shielding.

Sorry, I didn't take before and after photos, but the before photos can be seen in my previous posts.

I only gave it a single coating. You can still see slightly the cloudy pattern of the rust removal process, but I'm happy with it and I think it came out pretty good, especially considering the state of it when I first got it!

See the full gallery at https://imgur.com/a/oEq6PND but below are some highlights:








(https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DECOCOLOR...T/322220711641)

Last edited by solarmon; 29 March 2019 at 17:34.
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Old 30 March 2019, 00:40   #12
aeberbach
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Spray paint designed to stick to bare metal is a good choice. I used “etch primer” followed by matte black. (In a clear a1200.net case, black tin shows off the signatures in the plastic well)
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