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Old 09 September 2010, 16:58   #1
chrispy
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I'm In Love

Appologies if this beauty has been posted already but with all the time I have on my hands i'm going to give something like this a shot.

From a1k.org









Machine Specs

Blizzard 1260 mit 64MB Ram
40GB Seagate Festplatte
Internes Slim CD-Rom
IDEFixExpress Rev. II
Indivision AGA
AGA Chip Set
SubwayUSB
Cocolino

That is without a doubt the smartest 1200 i've ever seen.
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Old 09 September 2010, 17:05   #2
fitzsteve
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Wow thats actually been very tastefully done IMHO.

I wouldn't mind that on my desk

If you want to drool over some amazing upgraded A1200's check out these threads:

http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=54168

http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=51540

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Old 09 September 2010, 17:07   #3
killergorilla
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I don't like it

Colours aren't my cup of tea, and the dimpled strips on the front look poo
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Old 09 September 2010, 17:10   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killergorilla View Post
I don't like it

Colours aren't my cup of tea, and the dimpled strips on the front look poo
Thats Carbon Fibre effect
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Old 09 September 2010, 17:12   #5
seuden
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It's not bad, I prefer http://www.a1k.org/forum/attachment....6&d=1247966641

As KG said, the strips look pants. Great effort tho.
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Old 09 September 2010, 17:13   #6
Djay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killergorilla View Post
I don't like it

Colours aren't my cup of tea, and the dimpled strips on the front look poo
Agreed... Remove the strips it would look awesome
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Old 09 September 2010, 17:14   #7
Jimbo
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Wow looks really nice. But I agree with KG about the carbon fibre if that wasnt there this would be amazing in my books.
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Old 09 September 2010, 17:15   #8
killergorilla
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It's not bad, I prefer http://www.a1k.org/forum/attachment....6&d=1247966641

As KG said, the strips look pants. Great effort tho.
Agreed, that looks much better.
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Old 09 September 2010, 17:16   #9
T_hairy_bootson
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I dont like the black stickers and the commodore font but besides that it looks cool.

Also I an thinking of forming a society for prevention of cruelty to CDTV keyboards.
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Old 09 September 2010, 17:16   #10
Djay
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I would get rid of the playstations too, makes it all look cheap...
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Old 09 September 2010, 17:17   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_hairy_bootson View Post

Also I an thinking of forming a society for prevention of cruelty to CDTV keyboards.
Lets hope Amigakit start to stock replacement Black Keyboards at some stage

They'd sell, thats for sure!
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Old 09 September 2010, 17:30   #12
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Aaaaaaaaaah duct tape

Rest looks sweet though
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Old 09 September 2010, 20:29   #13
Fabie
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Originally Posted by fitzsteve View Post
Lets hope Amigakit start to stock replacement Black Keyboards at some stage

They'd sell, thats for sure!
yes...also a I want a replacement of A1200 black cases

however the A1200 white is nice...the problem is that the plastic tends to come yellow with the time and there are no solution
I bleached my A1200 using H2O2 but it worked for a few months....now the case and keys are yellowed again

The cases and keys made by Commodore were done with the worst plastics and tend to yellow more than the cases and keys made by Escom which are made from better quality
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Old 09 September 2010, 21:20   #14
Zetr0
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@Fabie

you souldn't use bleach - have a look here on the retro-bright wiki

theres a specific section on why using (chlorinated) bleach will do more damage to your Amiga


@thread

The carbon fiber effect would be much better had the modder used a closer-matched black - at the moment it looks a little unfinished - but it has lots of potential

especially if the modder plans to cut out a portion for the mouse as well - that would be cool.

alas its a case of asthetics - for me the carbon fiber effect would look the shiz-niz on the bottom part of the chassis- with a gun-metal finish for the top part of the plastic (giving a subtle two tone effect) - the keys being black would off-set the top - perhaps changing the LED's for reds and blues would finsh off the look...

black (and dark colours) are the hardest not only paint but also to photograph - it never translate well as a picture.
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Old 09 September 2010, 21:55   #15
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Don't like the two-tone matt black. It would have looked much better 100% CDTV black. The carbon fibre stickers are just a joke.

Still it's better than anything I ever did.
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Old 09 September 2010, 22:05   #16
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you are right..H2O2 bleach doesn't works well
it works for a few time but the plastic tend to yellow quick after the bleach process

I calculate that is the common light that warms the plastic again.....
if you bleach for example a mouse and you store it in a closed box...in a dark place where the normal light can't penetrate....the bleach will work for ever
but if you expose it to the normal light: yellowed mouse in a few time

That's why some plastics are more yellowed than others....because of the light exposition

I think that a new bleach process needs to be created...

or the white plastic needs to be protected with a transparent lack or something after the bleached
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Old 09 September 2010, 22:11   #17
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Prefer the original look tbh....
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Old 10 September 2010, 01:03   #18
Zetr0
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@Fabie

The yellowing is all about bromine's protination with oxygen - this happens without light - however UV light will accelerate the process.

The reason for this is that UV light is the same resonance frequencey as Bromine (the flame retardent thats in the ABS placstic)


The retro-bright process essentially breaks the covailent (weak) bond of the bromine/oxygen and replaces it with hydrogen as it was in the original plastic - essnetially its restored to its factory specification.

however, the method to achieve this can - if not managed properly - damage the plastic.

The method works by

1. Creating an Oxygen hungry, Hydrogen saturated environment (Hydrogen peroxide)
2. this environment is then bathed in UV light -

This UV energy resonates (vibrates) the bromine atoms free of the covalient bond with the oxygen which is then scuppered up in the external environment (through a coordinate bond with a free hydrogen) the original covailent bond is replaced with a free hydrogen.

Of course this process can take a few hours to a good half a day or more, theres plenty of readup on the wiki that will help.


the problem with using "bleach" (Chlorine) is that the Chlorine atom is smaller than the bromine (infact just over half the size/mass) - as it sits higher up in the perodic table it suplants the original bromine - when this happens you have damaged the plastic - although slightly less suseptible to UV energy wave lengths the Chlorine atom will still build a covailent bond with any oxygen it can - when this happens you are back to another yellow.

So take some time and a coffee Fabie and have a read on the wiki, theres lots of people taking part in the process and theres lots of good science with consistent results comming from the project
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Old 10 September 2010, 01:36   #19
Fabie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zetr0 View Post
@Fabie

The yellowing is all about bromine's protination with oxygen - this happens without light - however UV light will accelerate the process.

The reason for this is that UV light is the same resonance frequencey as Bromine (the flame retardent thats in the ABS placstic)


The retro-bright process essentially breaks the covailent (weak) bond of the bromine/oxygen and replaces it with hydrogen as it was in the original plastic - essnetially its restored to its factory specification.

however, the method to achieve this can - if not managed properly - damage the plastic.

The method works by

1. Creating an Oxygen hungry, Hydrogen saturated environment (Hydrogen peroxide)
2. this environment is then bathed in UV light -

This UV energy resonates (vibrates) the bromine atoms free of the covalient bond with the oxygen which is then scuppered up in the external environment (through a coordinate bond with a free hydrogen) the original covailent bond is replaced with a free hydrogen.

Of course this process can take a few hours to a good half a day or more, theres plenty of readup on the wiki that will help.


the problem with using "bleach" (Chlorine) is that the Chlorine atom is smaller than the bromine (infact just over half the size/mass) - as it sits higher up in the perodic table it suplants the original bromine - when this happens you have damaged the plastic - although slightly less suseptible to UV energy wave lengths the Chlorine atom will still build a covailent bond with any oxygen it can - when this happens you are back to another yellow.

So take some time and a coffee Fabie and have a read on the wiki, theres lots of people taking part in the process and theres lots of good science with consistent results comming from the project
thanks !!! Zetro for the long explanation
but I don't understand very well...I bleached my A1200 using hydrogen peroxide

so...I damaged my A1200 plastic bromine?

and now it is more suceptible to oxygen than light?

is that correct?
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Old 10 September 2010, 02:02   #20
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Rest easy, Fabie.

You have not damaged the plastic because, in fact, you've used Hydrogen Peroxide, which is one of the ingredients of RetroBrite.

Because you used the term "bleaching" in your explanation, Zetr0 has assumed you were using a Chlorine-based bleach.

RetroBrite can achieve much the same result that you got using Hydrogen Peroxide only, but the effect will be longer lasting because the other ingredients intensify the bleaching action of the Hydrogen Peroxide.
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