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Old 28 November 2016, 21:50   #1
jimbob
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Weird fault on A1200, how to find it?

I have an A1200 here which seemed to be working properly after a recap except the keyboard wasn't working. No keys worked and the caps lock light would flash three times every so often. I then discovered that the board read "almost" a dead short between 0v and 5V.

A normal board reads several hundred ohms DCR between 0v and 5v and the continuity /diode test reads no continuity and ~200(mv?) in one polarity and ~400 in the other. This board reads about 30ohms DCR and diode test is ~25 in both polarities.

I disconnected everything and suddenly the board would not boot at all. Reset was being held low so I thought the keyboard controller was dead and probably also the source of the almost short. After replacing the keyboard controller I briefly powered the board on and it boots to kickstart screen. This was a very brief test as the apparent short is still present and I don't want to connect anything else to the board or perform any more tests powered up in case something else breaks. I just wanted to see if the reset was fixed, which it is, for now.

Next I suspected the odd CIA U7 because the KBdata and KBclock pins measured quite different from a good board. Maybe the keyboard controller and CIA had murdered each other. I removed the chip without replacing it yet and the fault remains.

The fact it can boot at all in this condition makes me hopeful it isn't a custom chip or CPU. I also tested as much as I could the discrete diodes and transistors in circuit but couldn't find anything obviously wrong.

Having hopefully eliminated the keyboard controller and odd CIA, I began removing and testing decoupling caps, (ceramics and electros), starting at the power input but going through the whole board this way is a bit of a task so any thoughts on a better way to find the culprit?
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Old 29 November 2016, 12:54   #2
hooverphonique
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It's not in any way fool proof, but a method is to look for the smallest resistance, because the further you get away from the short, the larger the resistance will be.
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Old 29 November 2016, 13:10   #3
voxel
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question : has the old capacitors having heavily leaked on the board, and did you closely looked at where it had before replacing it all ?

because I've found shorts from under ttls and aops on amiga mobos (especially audio aops ...
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Old 30 November 2016, 00:49   #4
jimbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hooverphonique View Post
It's not in any way fool proof, but a method is to look for the smallest resistance, because the further you get away from the short, the larger the resistance will be.
Good idea, hoped I would be able to at least isolate an area of the board but I didn't manage to find any clues. I have an LCR meter which is a bit more accurate than my cheapo multimeter but I didn't measure anything out by more than 0.05R, just a difference in probe contact I think. DCR actually seems to be ~18.5 ohms.

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxel View Post
question : has the old capacitors having heavily leaked on the board, and did you closely looked at where it had before replacing it all ?

because I've found shorts from under ttls and aops on amiga mobos (especially audio aops ...
This board seemed in good shape physically when I recapped it, no severe leaks, which means I probably didn't inspect under the caps as thoroughly as I should have. I will take a closer look at all the standard ICs. That funny continuity reading seems more like a failed diode or transistor junction in a chip or discrete to me than a dodgy cap anyway.

This is annoying, hopefully I will find the bastard!
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Old 04 December 2016, 22:59   #5
jimbob
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Had a good hunt for this and still no luck. Before I start lifting components one by one I might try this -

1. Something on the board is broken and gives ~20 ohms between 5v and ground.

2. 5V across 20ohms = 1.25W. Anything apart from maybe the biggest chips will get pretty hot dissipating 1.25W

3. Get some freezer spray, power up the board and look for the part which melts the freeze really fast.

Not delighted about powering up the board like this but I think it is a reasonable plan?
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Old 07 December 2016, 02:35   #6
jimbob
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Got the bastard! Turned out to be a ceramic decoupling cap at the video DAC. Freeze spray worked a treat, it was very obvious which component was cooking itself when it got a dose.

Everything seems to be working properly now including the new keyboard controller and the original CIA which is now socketed.

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Old 08 December 2016, 13:04   #7
hooverphonique
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Old 09 December 2016, 10:55   #8
JonSick
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What a fantastic idea... freeze spray.

I'm nicking that one!
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