Removing the Gary socket? Or any socket for that matter.

[gizmo1990]

I thought I'd make a specific post about this since I don't seem to be getting anywhere with the issue and the soldering thread might be too broad.





I'm trying to remove the Gary socket and it just won't budge. I feel like I've removed all the solder, yet the socket feels clamped to the board. I've used a heat gun to remove the solder from the 2 bent pins, which I've then straightened, and the ground pin. I've noticed that the solder seems very reluctant to melt even at close to 400. Any further and I'm worried that I'll lift a trace.

There appears to be quite a build up of oxidisation (?) around the socket? Perhaps that causing the socket to be glued to the board? I've used vinegar and isopropyl to clean around there but it hasn't seemed to help.

Does anyone know of any specific advice for dealing with socket removal? I've tried looking online and was hoping to see someone actually doing a socket removal but I've not found anything.

Any advice much appreciated.

[Jope]

It just has solder left around the pins.

The socket is ruined anyway, you could take a pair of thin diagonal cutters and chop up the socket, carefully avoiding the circuit board. Then you can heat and remove the individual legs more easily and then clean out the vias of remaining solder.

This is a difficult task to do on a plated via circuit board, it is sometimes quite difficult to get all the solder out of the vias.

Whatever you do, don't force the pins. Heat first to loosen them, then when they move, pull them out. If you use force, you will damage the vias.

[pandy71]

Use some form of preheating - probably thermal mass of your soldering iron is insufficient to deliver heat in areas with large ground area - as such you can't properly melt soldering alloy... alternatively you may use low melting point alloys to increase you heat transfer capabilities - something like chip quik

[ Show youtube player ]

You may also invest some low money in budget hot air reworking station but i recommend to practicing on some broken old PC mainboard so you will feel more comfortable with Amiga PCB repair.

[wiz12]

A safe but expensive option would be to use some ChipQuik desoldering alloy, applying this to the remaining solder will lower the temperature needed and make it much easier to remove the socket.

Another option is use a tweezers to grab onto one of the pins from the top and heat the opposite end of the pin on the bottom of the board, when enough heat is applied the pin should come away easily enough.

[gizmo1990]

Thanks a lot for all the replies everyone. I went with @jope suggestion and set to it with some cutters. What a mess that makes! Bits flying off everywhere, definitely safety glasses time.




Got it off and cleaned up the area with white vinegar and then isopropyl. I'll go around the holes with the heat gun and see if I can pick the remaining legs out. Then use some solder wick? Hopefully I haven't lifted any vias.

[pandy71]

Based on your pictures it seem some via's may be heavily deteriorated, be prepared to repair via's with very thin, fine solderable copper wire.

Use plenty of flux and perhaps consider to apply some tin blob to restore proper pads surface (now it looks like heavily oxidized/corroded). if possible do not use RoHS/WEEE materials, be careful with soldering temperature.

[gizmo1990]

Originally Posted by pandy71

Based on your pictures it seem some via's may be heavily deteriorated, be prepared to repair via's with very thin, fine solderable copper wire.

Use plenty of flux and perhaps consider to apply some tin blob to restore proper pads surface (now it looks like heavily oxidized/corroded). if possible do not use RoHS/WEEE materials, be careful with soldering temperature.

Thanks for that. Yes they do look a bit/lot corroded don't they. I was considering delicately brushing over them with a carbon fibre pen to remove some of the acid corrosion. Do you think that's advisable?

[Vypr]

What I normally do for the holes plugged with solder is to apply the soldering iron to the edge of the hole then apply some hot air till the solder melts. remove the heat but keep the soldering iron applied, this should keep the solder molten and you can use a solder sucker to clear out the hole.

[Jope]

I dab a little solder on the iron to conduct heat, apply it on one side and press the pump on the other when the solder is melted. Then the pump has a chance to clear the via.

[pandy71]

Originally Posted by gizmo1990

Thanks for that. Yes they do look a bit/lot corroded don't they. I was considering delicately brushing over them with a carbon fibre pen to remove some of the acid corrosion. Do you think that's advisable?

Usually glass fiber brush or pen is used to clean PCB's.

[gizmo1990]

Thanks again everyone. I'll give all those technique a try to remove the legs and solder blocking the holes.

Originally Posted by pandy71

Usually glass fiber brush or pen is used to clean PCB's.

Sorry yes that's what I mean't. Should I use that to remove the corrosion? Otherwise it will still be there an eating away at the metal.

[pandy71]

Originally Posted by gizmo1990

Thanks again everyone. I'll give all those technique a try to remove the legs and solder blocking the holes.

i know how this sound but sometimes blow works better than suck - you can give a chance to compressed air.

Originally Posted by gizmo1990

Sorry yes that's what I mean't. Should I use that to remove the corrosion? Otherwise it will still be there an eating away at the metal.

if you washed carefully PCB then corrosion should be already stopped - but restoring proper surface (mild abrasive remove corrosion product) is recommended.

[rjd324]

Originally Posted by pandy71

i know how this sound but sometimes blow works better than suck - you can give a chance to compressed air.

Yeah...... I think I am going to have to report you here. Vulgar.

[pandy71]

Originally Posted by rjd324

Yeah...... I think I am going to have to report you here. Vulgar.

Vulgar only in heads of particular people ( ), from semantic perspective it is neutral and from technical perspective valid approach - sometimes when via is partially corrupted (part of copper via is delaminated and partially blocking via hole) standard suction is insufficient to remove all solder - compressed air may work better in such cases - there is a risk of course that air blow may create unwanted solder splat so you need to work in safe way and perform thorough inspection with magnifying glass if there is no unwanted solder remains somewhere - nevertheless worth to try in case of stubborn via's.