31 October 2023, 11:43 | #21 |
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Thanks so much, BSzilli, I just bought a couple of them. I also went to Ebay and bought a DB25 breakout connector so I can screw the connections rather than solder, hopefully.
I imagine you had to cut away the PSX connector cable - and then photograph it to have a record of which cable went to which pin on the DB25? Scary stuff. :-) Update Ah, this looks handy: [ Show youtube player ] Last edited by Angus; 31 October 2023 at 14:04. |
31 October 2023, 18:07 | #22 |
old chunk of coal
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I didn't even have to cut the cable, as I could pry the connector open and desolder the wires. That way I could preserve that plastic thingy at the end and glue it into the bottom half of the DB25 shell. The extension cable uses cheaper connectors than 1st party PSX controllers, but you'll see when you get one.
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31 October 2023, 22:20 | #23 |
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I had another look at your diagrams and I'm getting nervous. :-)
Once I've desoldered the wires from the psx socket do I need to create junctions/add capacitors etc or can I just insert them to the appropriate db25 screw connectors? Is there some documentation on this for the complete novice? |
01 November 2023, 11:23 | #24 |
old chunk of coal
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You can screw the legs of the diodes into the breakout connector, then connect them all together at the other end. Just make sure to test with a multimeter that pins 5-9 are not shorted together.
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01 November 2023, 22:49 | #25 |
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Okay thanks, BSzili. I think I'm going to need to find some detailed instructions.
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16 November 2023, 12:54 | #26 | |
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Quote:
I ordered one, but recently got an email saying I may get it in January or I may not, and the order would automatically close in 80 days or so. :-( I managed to find another on Ebay though. The breakout DB25 I got was probably a bad idea as the connections for the various cables are arranged like tiers and I think it might be simpler just soldering into a standard DB25 connector .....maybe. Looking at the diagram again, and sorry for a daft question, but connection 4 from the playstation isn't optional and needs to go to both 18 and 19 on the DB25? Thanks. |
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16 November 2023, 18:56 | #27 |
old chunk of coal
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Pins 18-22 are all ground on the Amiga parallel port, so you can use any of them. It's not really necessary to connect them together. If you don't mind doing some soldering, then using a regular DB25 connector will probably be simpler
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19 November 2023, 22:32 | #28 |
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Okay - I went for the regular connector, and as far as I can tell I haven't blown up my Amiga. Unfortunately though, I'm not get anything from the analogue sticks. Nothing shown in the test program although all the buttons showed up. I tried it anyway in Freespace, having first selected PSXPort on the setup screen, but it acted as if it didn't know the controller was there. Bother.
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20 November 2023, 07:55 | #29 |
old chunk of coal
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If your CIA isn't smoking that's a good sign Did you try to switch the controller into DualShock mode with the Analog button? This has to be done after a compatible game initializes the controller, as it'll be powered down between sessions, and by default it starts up in Digital only mode.
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20 November 2023, 16:59 | #30 |
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Some progress.....
I have 2 controllers a PS1 analogue (grey) and a very similar PS2 analogue (black - with dualshock written on it!). In the PSXport Test all the buttons work, but I noticed today, if I hold down the analogue button, I get the joystick gui bits to flash up for a spit second. In Freespace, all the buttons now work, but not the sticks. If I hold down the analogue button on the PS1 controller it flashed red but will not stay on. As all the buttons appear to work, does this mean my soldering may be okay, but the 4 metres (extension lead plus controller lead) of cable is too much for my Amiga to manage. And if so would a better psu maybe help? It's a pain because Freespace looks brilliant, but I just find that the control seems to be entirely unsuited to anything other than analogue. :-/ |
20 November 2023, 17:12 | #31 |
old chunk of coal
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It might not be the cause of the problem, but you want to keep the cable as short as possible. The PSU doesn't really matter in this case, because there's only so much power the CIA can put out via its data bits. Reducing the port speed can also help, see the documentation for more details.
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07 January 2024, 00:35 | #32 |
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What version of the controller are you using?
SCPH-110 analog button lights when I press it, but it doesn't stay on like with a Kipper adapter. In the test program when I press it what looks like two analog windows pop up but disappear. Digital direction and all buttons working, but flash rapidly like they are in turbo mode. SCPH-10010 analog button lights when I press it, but doesn't stay on like with a Kipper adapter. In the test program when I press it what looks like two analog windows pop up but disappear. Digital direction and all buttons working. Not sure if I used the wrong diodes or something. |
07 January 2024, 10:09 | #33 |
old chunk of coal
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I use a 3rd party PS2 controller (Madrics Tri-Mode), but I also tried a genuine DualShock 2. I suggest the same, you can try to reduce the port speed and shortening the cable.
Last edited by BSzili; 07 January 2024 at 10:40. |
07 January 2024, 14:28 | #34 |
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Latest on my effort, I'm waiting for a more competent friend to check my soldering and shorten the cable. The pads I used were both Sony analogues
PS2: .....3326 PS1: SCPH 1180 |
07 January 2024, 16:56 | #35 |
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I'm wondering do the analog sticks work for all of you?
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07 January 2024, 19:09 | #36 |
old chunk of coal
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For me they work fine.
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08 January 2024, 05:01 | #37 |
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I'm pretty sure I used the wrong diodes. I tried another controller and I can turn on the analog button which the LED indicator lights up, somewhat dimly and fades when I push the digital buttons in the test program. It does show the analog stick position windows which sometimes responds to the analog sticks.
So, don't do that. |
08 January 2024, 18:15 | #38 |
old chunk of coal
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To me this sounds like the controller is not getting enough juice. Did you measure the voltage at DB25 connector with the controller plugged in? It should be around 3.3V, but it depends on the voltage drop from the diodes, plus the controller can draw more current in different modes, more buttons pressed, etc.
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