24 December 2009, 22:00 | #161 |
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Right. Typically you will heat up the surface mount component with hot air, remove it when the solder melts, let the board cool down, use a normal iron + braid to remove the old solder, clean the board, lay down new paste, align/press the new part down, use the hot air to melt the solder.
When the new component is soldered, you gently press on the pins laterally with a pick or some other probe and see if the pins move. If they do, you need to touch up the joint with more solder. Finally, you will visually check for shorts, and clean them up (using braid if there's an excess of solder, otherwise you would irrigate the area with flux, and repeatedly heat up the pin and clean your tip). You want good (8x) magnification, and don't forget to check up inside the area behind the pins for shorts - if you get a short there and you can't clean it up with the iron and flux, your only option is to load it up with a lot of solder, then use braid to draw the excess out. Last, but certainly not least, CLEAN THE FLUX OFF THE BOARD. |
01 February 2010, 01:29 | #162 |
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hi
i am looking into getting some soldering practice.i was talking to alexh and he recommened looking on maplin website and see wot they had. here is wot i found: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=98133 http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=218050 http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=4103 http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=10271 here is the search list: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?...lder&source=15 am i on the right track here guys? have i found anything good or is there anything else anyone here recommends? thanks for your time. regards |
02 February 2010, 09:11 | #163 |
Likes to be thought of as
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I have the first one in the list, it works well, was cheap when i got it a few years ago, it has nice tips.
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10 February 2010, 11:38 | #164 |
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Hi All
Been out of touch with this pastime for a while and need some advice. I am going to buy the Iron suggested in this thread from Maplin & pack of different tips. Just one quick question, which gauge solders would be best for any soldering job within an Amiga. I used to use two years ago but have no idea what they where. Thanks for reading.... Last edited by Washac; 11 February 2010 at 10:01. |
24 February 2010, 12:14 | #165 |
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right guys. now got myself most of the equipment. does anyone know where i can get thin lead solder thats suitable for fine soldering? maplin only sells lead free!
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24 February 2010, 14:13 | #166 |
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for those looking for a good solder -
1.5oz 0.022 Silver Bearing Solder from Radio Shack £2.50 + £1.79 pnp I use a combination of the above (for through hole) and the same stuff (but different pitch) 0.015 for SMD work |
25 February 2010, 00:40 | #167 | |
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Quote:
Thanks for the pointer |
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07 March 2010, 22:14 | #168 |
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See this image... well, on the left hand side for example where it states "connect this together"... there are two soldered points yes... what do you do to connect them... do you just put a blob of solder on one point and then using your hot iron drag the molten solder either up or down so as it meets the other point and connects the two, leaving a line of solder between the two points when it gets cold?
Not a very technical description I know but is what I am stating essentially correct? See picture... |
07 March 2010, 23:27 | #169 |
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put a small piece of cable + flux (between the 2 points), to make a 'bridge'
Chris |
12 May 2010, 09:03 | #170 |
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Wtf for? Simply bridge it with solder.
Peter: Melt both solder points simultaneously and stick a bit of solder in between them. Remember the solder goes on the component you are soldering, NOT the iron. Last edited by Hewitson; 12 May 2010 at 09:11. |
20 May 2010, 22:28 | #171 |
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Erm, soldering ultranoob questions:
1. Is it possible to solder surface mount chips and caps with "iron + solder" rather than "hot air + solder paste"? 2. What exactly is flux and when do you use it? |
20 May 2010, 23:08 | #172 |
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@ Eamoe
Look up "drag soldering" on Youtube and you will see someone soldering surface mount chips with a normal iron. Flux is a compound that cleans the component to be soldered and it makes the solder 'take' to the component and wet out much better. You normally have to clean this off afterwards, although there are 'no-clean' fluxes available. |
21 May 2010, 01:17 | #173 |
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@Merlin
WOW... boy am I noob! Incredible vids I've seen here. Now I do understand how soldering such small parts can be made possible. If I get this right, the flux is essential: it makes the solder "stick" to other metal parts, like pads and chip legs, correct? |
21 May 2010, 01:41 | #174 | |
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Hiyas Eamoe
Quote:
Flux is a liquid that is use to spread the heat of the iron / gun and clean the contacts from oxides that build up from contact with the air thus making it hard for solder to bond with the contacts. Flux is slightly corrosive and some are damn right corrosive, however some are NON-Clean - meaning they clean themselfs and add a protective barrier once the solder has cooled. Flux comes in liquids and Pastes, some types of flux contain micro-solder beads, meaning once applied and heated it does it all in one go, this is called Solder Paste and has several compositions for different applications. for now I would suggest the following 1. When to use Flux? Always 2. What Flux do I use? well this really is dependent on the project, but a quick guide would be at what temperature will you be soldering at? If its above 280c then most liquid Flux's will vaporise before doing their job, so above 280c then a Paste Base Flux is recommended. To give you an idea. When soldering SMD (surface mount) I usually run about 220 - 260c and use a liquid flux (Laco Liquid Flux). However when I am reworking heavy gauge components like Power Supplies I use a Flux Paste - infact I am a little naughty as I use Copperlux Flux Paste. CopperLux Flux Paste is intended by design for brazing copper pipes and not for electronics. This is because its highly corrosive and if left even for a day it will eat copper tracks right off the PCB. to stop this one must clean the PCB very thorougly. Knowing your tools well is an advantage! As with all Flux, even those that say NO CLEAN, I always clean them, to clean I would recomend IPA (thats iisopropyl alcohol) it lifts, cleans all dirts and greases as well as neuralize acids. However this can be a little expensive, So I use pre-diluted Car Screen Wash.... which is diluted IPA..... I can get about 5 Liters of this to half a liter of IPA, sure you can use a bit more, but then you have alteast 5 times as much. To help clean I also use an electric toothbrush and a Ultra Sonic Cleaner |
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21 May 2010, 09:20 | #175 |
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Why, thank you Merlin, and Zetr0 for the nice and interesting post, that sets me pretty good to start some serious soldering. Still missing flux, IPA and nail polish to complete the equipment.
Very interesting way to go, the car screen wash! Doesn't the "Fresh Citrus Fragrance" from that mix pose problems when the rest evaporates? I thought they also put a tiny bit of soap in these. My absolute goal for now is to manage to solder an U7 (CIA) chip on an A600 mobo. That's surface mount and it looks quite reduced in size... compared to what I've soldered till now! Last edited by Eamoe; 21 May 2010 at 09:22. Reason: Thanks added |
23 May 2010, 07:02 | #176 | |
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Quote:
I'd practise first on another chip, get and old PC mainboard and do a few J-leg parts on that. If you'd like me to post a Youtube video of such, I can, just not today, probably mid to late week coming. I may even consider doing a small series of videos for J-leg, gull wing and fine pitch, if people are interested? |
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23 May 2010, 07:41 | #177 |
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J-leg? Is that an official term? I always called them PLCC.
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23 May 2010, 08:13 | #178 |
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PLCC is the package style and the pins are referred to as J-leg AFAIK
http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp...0Packages.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic...d_chip_carrier J Lead is mentioned, but I've also heard J Leg and that's what I use. Last edited by Loedown; 23 May 2010 at 08:19. |
24 May 2010, 09:58 | #179 | |
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Quote:
Please do post videos when you can, I am interested. Thanks for the technique. I will try on other PCB's, have a few here that take dust. My sodler iron has a "pointy" tip, not these 45 degrees beveled ones you see in videos like this (@1:00): [ Show youtube player ]. Would that totally prevent me from managing a nice solder? |
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24 May 2010, 16:04 | #180 |
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If you have a steady hand, a Dremmel cutting tool will ease the removal of the dead chip: use it on the top of the leads/legs so you can pull the chip out and then start to unsolder the remaining pins as Loedown told you.
Remember to wash the entire board, Dremmel use to spread metallic powder all over the place! |
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