29 September 2010, 22:37 | #121 | |
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You can however use 4 drives with pin 30 & 34 but all drives have to be modified like this. Bad solution: use a diode instead of a wire between these pins. Good solution: use a drive that have a real ready signal. |
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29 September 2010, 22:42 | #122 | |
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It's a chance that it works on Amiga. |
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17 October 2010, 20:11 | #123 |
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Anyone ever had a success over a Sony MPF920-z/171 ?
I don't need a second drive, just a DF0 will do.. Thanks! |
18 October 2010, 22:33 | #124 |
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Hi salax54,
Could you upload/attach a scan of the z/171 pcb? |
19 October 2010, 22:47 | #125 |
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If it's not possible for you to photograph or scan the pcb on your z/171 floppy drive, have a look instead at the pcbs pictured in this other thread and check for similarities with your own:
http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=43265 A few other variations in the Sony MPF920 series are featured there. |
24 October 2010, 18:28 | #126 |
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Verified Sony MPF420-1 modification:
http://jope.fi/drives/mpf420-1/ This isn't a very common drive in consumer equipment I'm afraid, I plucked two of these from junk routers that were from the early 90s.. (If someone has a copy of my old drives/index.html, please send it to vjouppi@sci.fi. I managed to delete the old one by accident. :-) Last edited by Jope; 24 October 2010 at 18:34. |
24 October 2010, 20:59 | #127 |
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um, so is there a list of all 'modifiable' drives so far? (the ones with true RDY signal)
I'm particularly interested in NEC models, have a few of them. |
24 October 2010, 21:13 | #128 | |
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Quote:
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13 November 2010, 15:00 | #129 |
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@prowler: sorry for the delay mate, i have been uber-busy!
This is the pcb: Let me know what you think of it |
13 November 2010, 15:46 | #130 | |
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MITSUMI D359T6 -1 and -2 PCB mod - translated
Quote:
German text says: (for ALL boards) - Cut both DS0 and DS1. - Join DS0 to DS1 track. - Connect DCH to Pin2 (for MITSUMI D359T6-1 board ONLY) - "Move" RDY/DCH resistor. (for MITSUMI D359T6-2 board ONLY) - Connect RDY to pin 2 of integrated circuit (NCL036) |
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13 November 2010, 17:16 | #131 |
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18 November 2010, 00:24 | #132 |
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Has anyone tried a modded drive as a replacement for an external? It should work.
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18 November 2010, 08:11 | #133 |
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Yes, several. No different to an internal drive. Most externals are set as DS0, check first..
Last edited by Jope; 18 November 2010 at 09:18. |
23 November 2010, 14:21 | #134 |
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I have been attempting to modify a Teac drive, an FD-235HF A291-U5.
Here's the board: http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...35HFA291U5.jpg Have been discussing this over at AmiBay, at this thread : http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=9934 where you can see the modifications i made. However, nothing has worked yet.. This is the same pcb after hack: http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...4/TEACHACK.jpg I also have a Nec FD1231H if anyone has ideas for modding it. http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...NECFD1231H.jpg Thanks in advance! |
27 November 2010, 16:44 | #135 |
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03 January 2011, 22:30 | #136 |
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Just a quick question when it comes to the original Amiga diskdrives...
Has anyone here ever ordered this diskdrive from Amigakit? http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/...roducts_id=294 If so, is this a real Amiga diskdrive and not a modified PC diskdrive? Does it have a ready-signal connected to pin 34, so I can just plug it in and use it with any trackloaded program without modifying it? The reason I'm asking is that I would like to find a new (or used, it doesn't matter as long as it's working) original diskdrive for my C= A1200. I ordered an A1200 diskdrive from another computer store, but received a modified PC diskdrive in the mail that didn't even have the ready-signal on pin 34. In fact, there was no ready-signal at all to be found on that diskdrive's PCB. I don't want to get ripped off again like that, so it would be great if anyone could verify that the A600/A1200 diskdrive that Amigakit is selling is in fact a true Amiga diskdrive with a ready-signal connected to pin 34. Thanks! |
05 January 2011, 08:35 | #137 |
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@Tom
I think someone moaned here about amigakit selling modified PC drives. IMO, you should ask them directly. but, please try the diode thingy: http://www.amiga.org/gallery/index.php?n=2181 its easy and I'm curious what doesn't work with it.. |
06 January 2011, 18:12 | #138 | |
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Quote:
Here's the pictures. It's a bit tricky, you have to be really steady when soldering to the main chip. I've modded a few different brands and this is one of the drives that works very well one of the best and very common and easy to find. Hope this helps |
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06 January 2011, 18:24 | #139 |
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@orange
Thanks for the advice. I will write an email to Amigakit and ask them directly before ordering. I think doing so might be the safest way. Let's just hope they will be honest in their reply. (This will be the first time I'm ordering something from them.) I've already tried the diode hack on my C= A1200, but in a different way. That cable is set up to work with any unmodified PC diskdrive. The way I tested it was by modifying a PC diskdrive and then connect the diode between pin 10 and 34 on the diskdrive itself. In regards to connection, this is exactly the same thing as connecting "pin" 10/12 to "pin" 34 on the floppy cable and then use it with an unmodified PC diskdrive. It's possible that doing this hack will have different result on different systems. I have not been able to test it on any other system than my A1200. And on my A1200, I got a lot of write errors in Workbench all the time and other strange error messages like "Object already exists" while copying a file to an empty disk. I explained about the most probable reason for this behavior in the thread about Stedys floppy adaptor, and what needs to be done to solve it. |
20 January 2011, 17:29 | #140 |
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i found 2 JU257A606P L, the main is different, next time i insert a photo.
i switch dc-rdy, ds0-ds1 and insert 3 resistor (zero ohm) at r56 r57 r58 and i test on amiga and work fine |
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