05 December 2008, 20:09 | #121 |
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Recently I have bought a one of these: http://www.ersa.com/art-0ic1100a-358-1970.html
In my opinion this is the best soldering station I have ever used. Also PACE and Weller are worth paying for. |
06 December 2008, 04:40 | #122 |
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06 December 2008, 05:53 | #123 |
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@JackTheKnife
looks okay by me if all you want is to solder, howmuch was it? for around £85 you could get a full blown hot-air rework and solder station (the strength of the dollar really has raised these prices, I got mine for £60 including postage (same one) last year. anyway... I have to sware by the fact that once you have had hot air, you wont go back... its like going back to the dark ages LOL!!! however a good robust variable soldering station, with a ceramic core iron will server you well indeed |
06 December 2008, 06:05 | #124 |
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I'm looking for something to do this (NTSC version) http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=30752 and try to fix my problem described here http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=34822
Anyway I can spend money on that http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=360113908773 PS. I never heard about hot air + iron 2-in-1. Is it really good? |
06 December 2008, 06:17 | #125 |
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@Jack
ahhh up late i see well the unit you have specifed would do you well for the cause of purchase, however for the wont of $50 more and you could get the full hot-air smd rework station as well... but with christmass comming up... somethings have to give besides it gives you something for the missues / family to get you for your birthday |
06 December 2008, 06:36 | #126 |
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07 December 2008, 18:19 | #127 |
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Back to the soldering stations. Which one I should to pick? Always I used soldering gun but is not good for computer purposes. I have those choices:
http://www.web-tronics.com/cispdeesdsas.html http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=390000564217 and this one wht did you suggest http://cgi.ebay.com/Kada-852D-Solder...3A1%7C294%3A50 I need only to make that RGB 2 S-Video adaptor and fix my problem with AdRam 540. Later maybe I will do some more mods, but not often just for hobby purposes Thanks again |
07 December 2008, 19:54 | #128 |
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I would recommend the KADA 852D+ as Zetr0 suggested.
I bought one last year off ebay and it's a great tool. Get some solder paste/cream and you'll find yourself having a go at most jobs you wouldn't have considered previously. Regards |
07 December 2008, 22:07 | #129 |
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Has it spare (where to buy) tips for soldering iron? I see only additional hot air nozzles.
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07 December 2008, 22:58 | #130 |
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yes it comes with three spare tips and to replace them will set you back $10 for 10 of them... easy peasy
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09 December 2008, 20:45 | #131 |
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put the lessons on utube
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11 May 2009, 23:12 | #132 | |
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Quote:
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11 May 2009, 23:29 | #133 |
Likes to be thought of as
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I like the Kada 852D i have it, done a few 1240/1260 with it and almost a real of solder and still on the first tip!
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27 June 2009, 05:25 | #134 | |
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Quote:
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27 June 2009, 09:37 | #135 |
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28 June 2009, 02:43 | #136 |
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28 June 2009, 03:09 | #137 |
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what jope means, is solder a wire from the cap`s leg too the major component that the broken track goes too.
thus, bridging the gap of the broken track |
28 June 2009, 09:25 | #138 |
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Yep. Can't really give any specific tips here. Be careful when soldering if the track terminates in a small place. :-)
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19 August 2009, 01:04 | #139 | |
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Quote:
And of course, make sure you have decent quality solder. For home usage, I recommend rosin-core lead-based solder* (* I am on that side of the pond), rosin flux is really good, the residue won't eat the copper away if you miss cleaning some of it up, heck you don't even *need* to clean up rosin residue if you don't want to and the only thing bad will be the board's appearance. What this really means, is pay the extra to get electronics solder, not plumbing solder. Fluxed plumbing solder contains acid that will eat away your board if you don't clean up every last bit of the flux. Solid, flux-free solders are inconvenient since you need to make sure the contacts all get fluxed up before you begin, or your work is crap (i.e. ruined). All the organic flux core solders I've seen tend to make you run through tips like they're going out of style (you will need some superactive flux solder to clean up your tips, like some of the water soluble ones, and that kind of flux will literally destroy cheap tips). Don't go there unless needed. Water soluble fluxes MUST be cleaned off the board properly (Suponifier Interflux is by far the best for this, but expensive) or you will be dealing with hideous board damage six months afterwards. Last edited by Shadowfire; 19 August 2009 at 01:18. |
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19 August 2009, 01:21 | #140 |
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Jope's advice is the recommended way, but if there is some reason that is unworkable, you can scrape away the solder mask on the trace with a hobby knife, exposing 1/4" of the copper track, then take some 30 gauge wire, tin the wire & the track, and solder the wire to the track. I have had to do this with a few boards where installation of the board would be impossible otherwise.
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