29 March 2017, 23:31 | #41 |
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Rubber washers made no difference.
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14 May 2017, 21:05 | #42 |
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Hi plasmab!
Do u have solved?New laser lens can read now? Tanks |
14 May 2017, 21:16 | #43 |
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15 May 2017, 17:44 | #44 |
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That's so weird, I wonder what happened.
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04 July 2017, 11:08 | #45 | |
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The 5h pot and Multimeter pins?
Quote:
Thanks for such a great post. In my case I don't need to replace the lens but just [hopefully] adjust the potentiometers. I hope that you can help me with questions related to your explanation: - Where is the 5th pot? I was only able to find the 4 FEG, TEG, FEB & TEB pots. - Could you explain further (or illustrate with a pic if possible) where exactly are the pins to use with the multimeter? My story is the following: After having an Amiga 500 during my youth and loving it very much, I had to give it away and move to a PC that was better suited for my university studies just when the CD32 came out at 1993. I would have given an arm to get a CD32 at that time. Anyway, I had the chance to get a CD32 a few weeks/months ago to try to revive the good old times. I got it without power supply and I had to use a 3rd party PSU for starters (Taifu AC Adapter (5V 2A, 12V 2A) ). Then, I tried CD-R copies and nothing worked so I started to panic until I read in EAB that there were ways to tune the CD reading. With my very limited electronics skills I tried to follow: - http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/Pa...32_Info/index/ - http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=82828 I only managed to go from CD-Audio glitchy playback to very smooth playback moving well between tracks, etc. but playing CD32 CD-R games had exactly the same result: - A very few games take minutes to get to the first screen and then nothing. - 99% of games just show a black screen. - The CDs seem to spin well (doing some noise), I see no issue there. I burned the CD-Rs at minimum speed that my drive supports: 4X Sorry for the long post, I considered creating a new one but I didn't know what was more appropriate. Cheers, Victor. |
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05 July 2017, 02:12 | #46 | |||
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Quote:
As such, I have not ever touched the pots, do not recommend doing so, and I cannot help you much, but I'll answer what I can. Quote:
Oh, I remembered. There is another pot on the back of the lens assembly. Again, I wouldn't touch any of these especially the one on the lens. Quote:
If you see Stedys 's pic, you can see where the pins for each pot are: http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/Pa...-adjusters.jpg Anyway, as I said, get the new lens, they are dirt cheap if you follow my instructions. |
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06 July 2017, 09:46 | #47 | |
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Quote:
I see now that it would've been better to try to replace the lens. Initially I assumed that it would be easier to play with the pots and I even didn't read you post thinking that replacing the lens was the last resort. Now, I ordered the lens following your recommendation. I'll come back with the result once (if) I manage to do the job. Cheers |
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24 July 2017, 11:28 | #48 |
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Hello again,
I got the new lens and finally found the time to do the replacement which was really easy following your post. I tested some CDs and: - Audio CDs played better than they did with the old lens. - CD-R games didn't play at all Then I got another CD32 to test (which played everything perfectly) where I could check the voltage difference between pot pins as you explain. I adjusted the pots in my CD32 trying to get values as close as possible to the other CD32. Funny enough, in one of the pots (FEB) I can only get negative values whereas in the “good” CD32 the voltage difference is a positive one. I discovered that the best position for this pot seems to be the lowest negative value in its rightmost position. All and all, after all the adjustment I was able to read all the CD-Rs that I tried with the odd behavior that many times the CD starts spinning backwards and I need to switch off/on the CD32 to try again until it starts spinning normally and then reading the CD perfectly. I read on another post that this backwards spinning issue might be due to a weak laser that could be fixed by playing carefully with the lens pot, I will try that during the week. Cheers |
24 July 2017, 13:01 | #49 | |
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Quote:
People also forget spindle height, this to can cause odd behaviour. With the constant closing of lid, it can cause spindle to move lower. |
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24 July 2017, 14:07 | #50 | |
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Quote:
I don’t think it is the spindle weight because the only thing that was on top of the CDs was the spindle. I was testing with the CD32 naked, before putting the CD unit, cases, etc. back in place. After my bad experience with the board pots, I don’t want to play with them anymore unless there is a clear winner move . I guess that I would settle with having to restart the CD32 every time that a CD starts spinning backwards. Cheers |
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24 July 2017, 17:48 | #51 |
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Was your CD32 recapped? Because there could be issues , the controller board itself has some caps that go bad.
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24 July 2017, 18:17 | #52 |
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24 July 2017, 18:42 | #53 |
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There's also the issue that normally people recap the main board but forget to recap the controller board. I would look into that, all these machines are due for a recapping anyway, sooner or later.
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25 July 2017, 08:56 | #54 |
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Thanks, I'll take that into account but I'm a bit afraid of the recapping process. I can use a soldering iron for very basic tasks but doing a full recap with minimum quality would be too much for me.
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25 July 2017, 15:11 | #55 |
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I feel you, I am also not comfortable with SMD components yet. I sent my motherboards to be recapped by a skilled friend. I am sure someone in Spain is doing this job. Have you checked on Amibay?
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25 July 2017, 21:41 | #56 |
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25 July 2017, 23:43 | #57 |
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This is whats hidden under the CD controller shielding...
The above is after a recap, some of the original caps were bulging but luckily hadn't started to leak. If your doing a recap the following are needed for the controller board... 1 x 2.2uf 50v 1 x 4.7uf 35v 1 x 47uf 6.3v 2 x 33uf 6.3 4 x 100uf 16v 6 x 10uf 16v C102 - 4.7uf 35v C103 - 10uf 16v C104 - 33uf 6.3 C108 - 100uf 16v C117 - 10uf 16v C118 - 10uf 16v C121 - 10uf 16v C123 - 47uf 6.3v C128 - 10uf 16v C129 - 10uf 16v C130 - 100uf 16v C201 - 100uf 16v C202 - 100uf 16v C203 - 2.2uf 50v C211 - 33uf 6.3v Last edited by wmsteele; 26 July 2017 at 00:22. |
27 July 2017, 16:21 | #58 |
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23 January 2018, 09:22 | #59 |
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Once this guide will come in handy for me too. First let me grab a backup laser. Can I just buy any replacement lens (Sony KSS-210A or KSS-210B) that is sold for cheap (cheaper than on ebay) on Alilexpress? Or should I go for something that explicitly lists CD32 like this one https://www.ebay.de/itm/Origianl-CD-.../112768352552? while I guess that's just a DIY box hoping to earn more money
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23 January 2018, 16:18 | #60 | |
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Quote:
Any laser that has the exact same model and make will be a drop-in replacement. Make sure you get one exactly like the one your CD32 already has. Mine has a 210A. But not all models do. Disassemble the thing, look at the model markings, search for that on eBay or wherever, and get the cheapest you can find. |
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