Removing Yellowing using H2O2, TAED & UV - Page 2

Methanoid · 09 October 2009, 13:34

Do Amiga keys come away from an A1200 keyboard easily - is it just a case of prising them off? I just (5 mins ago) got the A1200 down from attic and the case is mint but the keyboard is yellowed to buggery (well not that bad but needs doing) and my PSU is yellowed but only on one side.

alexh · 09 October 2009, 15:18

Yup, just pull.

Depending on the keyboard model there are either springs or rubber widgets between the key and the board

The space bar and the return(?) key are special cases as they have metal bars which must be unclipped too.

TjLaZer · 10 October 2009, 22:29

You can also do it with the keys in tact. Just use a creme developer and a paint brush. Apply light coats every 30 min whilst in the sun. No removal of keys needed. Just be careful when cleaning it afterwards. Use a damp cloth and Simple Green or such to clean and avoid getting water in the keyboard. I've done several KB's like this and it worked great.

rkauer · 12 October 2009, 20:56

I don't recommend using retr0bright on an entire keyboard at once: the peroxide will go in touch with the metal springs with obvious results.

Also, as the solution is a liquid, it will go down into the keyboard matrix, where it will certainly erode some traces. Capillarity, remember?

Dismantling the key caps is a no-brain job, just take a picture or two of the position of the keys and sack them out. Take your chances to clean the black surface under the caps with a brush or a damp cloth.

Methanoid · 13 October 2009, 00:09

I've removed mine. Not fantastically quick but safest.

Wondering if I can just soak in H202 & TAED.. do I *need* a UV light or can I leave on windowsill and leave for longer?

rkauer · 13 October 2009, 15:37

@Methanoid: the second is just slower, but could be better to control how the reaction is going.

TjLaZer · 14 October 2009, 05:32

Well I did a bunch of ST keyboards and they don't have metal springs, just plastic so it was good. (Plus they were ST's so I didn't care, LOL *kidding*) If you use light coats it will not get into the KB. But of course the best way to do it is to dismantle the KB, that way you can clean the KB nicely and make it like new...

I did do a SX-64 keyboard and a A1000 too, both just had a yellow Space bar. Was too lazy to dismantle and remove the space bar. lol

I also tried to do the keys apart and it was as pain. Tried the Jar trick (didn't work too good for me) and just brushing each key loose and lay then out in the sun. (took like 3-4 days to get the job done) What a pain! Doing it on the keyboard was so much easier as all I had to do is put coats on every ~30 min in like 5-6 hours tops, and it was done in 1 day this way. On the ST KB you can unscrew the back PCB and keep the keys intact, did some this way too and it was a lot better, with no risk of PCB getting wet/corroded. I wonder if an A2/3/4K KB can do this too?

rkauer · 14 October 2009, 18:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by TjLaZer

<SNIP> I wonder if an A2/3/4K KB can do this too?

Big box keyboards are pretty much the same as A500 units, but with real PCB in the back instead the (cheap) plastic membrane.

Just unscrew that ton of little screws (and keep them in a safe place!) and take the front part of the keyboard for a ride.

Wash carefully the keys after the treatment, let they dry completely and all your worries are gone.

mully · 19 February 2010, 08:32

I've just returned home from work to complete the final stage of retrobriting my A500 and A1200, left outside in the back yard sitting atop the wheelie bins. Using 6% Hydrogen Peroxide - solution for keys, gel mix (xanthan gum powder to thicken and glycerin to keep wetter) for cases - the results have been fantastic. Just allow a few days and be patient. The gel seemed to act quicker than the solution presumably because it is more concentrated over a given surface area. Jam jars with loose lid worked will with keys.

Anxious about hydrogen peroxide warnings, I found the 6% solution from the chemist quite benign - no gloves or goggles needed when working outside. Solution became very warm in the sun but to no apparent ill effect. The UV factor here (Canberra, Australia) is extreme at this time of year even when cloudy. Perhaps compensates the weaker peroxide. But I'm no chemist.

So bring your miggy out here next holiday for retrobriting and save on a UV bulb.

alexh · 19 February 2010, 11:39

I must get round to doing my A500+ soon.

Merlin · 19 February 2010, 23:03

The metal badges should be removed, however, screen printed logos are fine as long as the strength of the peroxide is kept low.

Washac · 21 February 2010, 23:48

Hi Ya

I really want to know that I am buying the right stuff for this.

Is this OK ?

http://www.sallyexpress.com/viewProduct.aspx?pid=046051

Thanks for reading....

10 October 2009, 22:29	#23
TjLaZer Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Tacoma, WA USA Age: 52 Posts: 1,927	You can also do it with the keys in tact. Just use a creme developer and a paint brush. Apply light coats every 30 min whilst in the sun. No removal of keys needed. Just be careful when cleaning it afterwards. Use a damp cloth and Simple Green or such to clean and avoid getting water in the keyboard. I've done several KB's like this and it worked great. Last edited by TjLaZer; 14 October 2009 at 05:29.

14 October 2009, 05:32	#27
TjLaZer Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Tacoma, WA USA Age: 52 Posts: 1,927	Well I did a bunch of ST keyboards and they don't have metal springs, just plastic so it was good. (Plus they were ST's so I didn't care, LOL kidding) If you use light coats it will not get into the KB. But of course the best way to do it is to dismantle the KB, that way you can clean the KB nicely and make it like new... I did do a SX-64 keyboard and a A1000 too, both just had a yellow Space bar. Was too lazy to dismantle and remove the space bar. lol I also tried to do the keys apart and it was as pain. Tried the Jar trick (didn't work too good for me) and just brushing each key loose and lay then out in the sun. (took like 3-4 days to get the job done) What a pain! Doing it on the keyboard was so much easier as all I had to do is put coats on every ~30 min in like 5-6 hours tops, and it was done in 1 day this way. On the ST KB you can unscrew the back PCB and keep the keys intact, did some this way too and it was a lot better, with no risk of PCB getting wet/corroded. I wonder if an A2/3/4K KB can do this too? Last edited by TjLaZer; 14 October 2009 at 05:40. Reason: typos

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09 October 2009, 13:34	#21
Methanoid Retired Quartex Sysop Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Roman Verulamium Age: 58 Posts: 1,874	Do Amiga keys come away from an A1200 keyboard easily - is it just a case of prising them off? I just (5 mins ago) got the A1200 down from attic and the case is mint but the keyboard is yellowed to buggery (well not that bad but needs doing) and my PSU is yellowed but only on one side.

09 October 2009, 15:18	#22
alexh Thalion Webshrine Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Oxford Posts: 14,448	Yup, just pull. Depending on the keyboard model there are either springs or rubber widgets between the key and the board The space bar and the return(?) key are special cases as they have metal bars which must be unclipped too.

12 October 2009, 20:56	#24
rkauer I hate potatos and shirts Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sao Leopoldo / Brazil Age: 58 Posts: 3,482	I don't recommend using retr0bright on an entire keyboard at once: the peroxide will go in touch with the metal springs with obvious results. Also, as the solution is a liquid, it will go down into the keyboard matrix, where it will certainly erode some traces. Capillarity, remember? Dismantling the key caps is a no-brain job, just take a picture or two of the position of the keys and sack them out. Take your chances to clean the black surface under the caps with a brush or a damp cloth.

13 October 2009, 00:09	#25
Methanoid Retired Quartex Sysop Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Roman Verulamium Age: 58 Posts: 1,874	I've removed mine. Not fantastically quick but safest. Wondering if I can just soak in H202 & TAED.. do I need a UV light or can I leave on windowsill and leave for longer?

13 October 2009, 15:37	#26
rkauer I hate potatos and shirts Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sao Leopoldo / Brazil Age: 58 Posts: 3,482	@Methanoid: the second is just slower, but could be better to control how the reaction is going.

19 February 2010, 08:32	#29
mully Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Australia Posts: 40	I've just returned home from work to complete the final stage of retrobriting my A500 and A1200, left outside in the back yard sitting atop the wheelie bins. Using 6% Hydrogen Peroxide - solution for keys, gel mix (xanthan gum powder to thicken and glycerin to keep wetter) for cases - the results have been fantastic. Just allow a few days and be patient. The gel seemed to act quicker than the solution presumably because it is more concentrated over a given surface area. Jam jars with loose lid worked will with keys. Anxious about hydrogen peroxide warnings, I found the 6% solution from the chemist quite benign - no gloves or goggles needed when working outside. Solution became very warm in the sun but to no apparent ill effect. The UV factor here (Canberra, Australia) is extreme at this time of year even when cloudy. Perhaps compensates the weaker peroxide. But I'm no chemist. So bring your miggy out here next holiday for retrobriting and save on a UV bulb.

19 February 2010, 11:39	#30
alexh Thalion Webshrine Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Oxford Posts: 14,448	I must get round to doing my A500+ soon.

19 February 2010, 23:03	#31
Merlin AmiBay MegaMod Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Manchester, UK Age: 62 Posts: 1,163	The metal badges should be removed, however, screen printed logos are fine as long as the strength of the peroxide is kept low.

21 February 2010, 23:48	#32
Washac Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: UK Southern End Posts: 704	Hi Ya I really want to know that I am buying the right stuff for this. Is this OK ? http://www.sallyexpress.com/viewProduct.aspx?pid=046051 Thanks for reading....

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