Anyone knows where to get 68000 sockets?

[Vot]

Originally Posted by Hewitson

I was talking about the CPU. I wouldn't try to repair the socket, why would you re pin it instead of simply replacing it?

My bad, i,probably didn't read his post properly. For some reason i thought he was talking about the socket. Oh wait.. The topic title..

If its the legs you can scrape it off. Probably best to tin the legs as they oxidise again .

Can you still get those sockets ?

[Zippy Zapp]

@Hewitson, @Vot,

Thanks for the tips. I was kind of joking about the nail file, but those foam nail files are pretty fine sand paper. I'll give it a shot.

Yes, I just ordered 4 sockets just in case I mess one up and to have a spare or two. Paid about $2.50 USD a piece. I am glad I found this thread because an eBay search I did didn't find the right ones. I love this place!

@Vot, The sockets are green too and I don't get continuity through it either so it has to go.

[amigasith]

Originally Posted by Zippy Zapp

@AmigaSith: Nice and clean work!

Thanks

Originally Posted by Zippy Zapp

Did you have to get a new CPU?

No, the CPU was perfectly okay. But I cleaned its legs with a very fine sandpaper. It was really easy and the legs are now shiny again.

Good luck with your repair

[Zippy Zapp]

Originally Posted by amigasith

Thanks

No, the CPU was perfectly okay. But I cleaned its legs with a very fine sandpaper. It was really easy and the legs are now shiny again.

Good luck with your repair

Cool, thanks! I don't have the best soldering skills in the world but I have a desoldering iron and I am thinking about ordering a SMD rework station (those cheap ones on eBay) and Ill practice on an old HP/Compaq Pentium 3 motherboard. haha finally put that waste of circuits to good use.

I'll try the sand paper bit. Then I just have to check in a few more spots by the keyboard connector there are some resisters there that have greenish solder pads. Hopefully they are still good.

In the meanwhile I purchased a Rev 6.3 A2000 from a generous person who no longer needed it and just got it so haven't had a chance to test it all out yet but it looks good. Hopefully my SupraRam card and Supra SCSI card still work right.

If this works I need to fix the floppy connector on the Motherboard as one of the pins broke off into the floppy cable, pin 3, I believe.

Thanks for the tips.

Cheers.

[Vot]

Originally Posted by Zippy Zapp

Cool, thanks! I don't have the best soldering skills in the world but I have a desoldering iron and I am thinking about ordering a SMD rework station (those cheap ones on eBay) and Ill practice on an old HP/Compaq Pentium 3 motherboard. haha finally put that waste of circuits to good use.



I'll try the sand paper bit. Then I just have to check in a few more spots by the keyboard connector there are some resisters there that have greenish solder pads. Hopefully they are still good.



In the meanwhile I purchased a Rev 6.3 A2000 from a generous person who no longer needed it and just got it so haven't had a chance to test it all out yet but it looks good. Hopefully my SupraRam card and Supra SCSI card still work right.



If this works I need to fix the floppy connector on the Motherboard as one of the pins broke off into the floppy cable, pin 3, I believe.



Thanks for the tips.



Cheers.

Chip quick is an alternative to smd hot air reworking. Preheating and heating other components is an issue with the hot air gun methods.

[Zippy Zapp]

Originally Posted by Vot

Chip quick is an alternative to smd hot air reworking. Preheating and heating other components is an issue with the hot air gun methods.

I'll have to look that up, I am not familiar with that. I think for this socket I will try my de-solder iron with bulb. I used that with some RAM chips on a C64 Ram expansion and it seemed to do the trick. But I would like to learn to use other methods as eventually something is going to require it on these boards.

Thanks!

[Zippy Zapp]

Chipquick looks pretty cool. Ill have to pick some up to try it.

I ordered a hakko solder station instead. My radio shack solder iron was not cutting it.

For putting these replacement sockets in what temperature did you use? 350 c. seems to be what i have read. Any suggestions specifically for the amiga mb and these sockets mentioned here?

[ajk]

There isn't really a hard rule for temperature - if you use a higher temp it will take less time to do the soldering, so it won't necessarily heat the board or component more overall. 350C is what I usually use and have never had a problem with Amiga work (assuming tin-lead solder).

Chipquick is very useful for desoldering multi-pin parts so a +1 from me

[Vot]

Originally Posted by ajk

There isn't really a hard rule for temperature - if you use a higher temp it will take less time to do the soldering, so it won't necessarily heat the board or component more overall. 350C is what I usually use and have never had a problem with Amiga work (assuming tin-lead solder).



Chipquick is very useful for desoldering multi-pin parts so a +1 from me

If you start desoldering things with multiple pins or large ground planes its very hard to say as it really depends on the thermal mass of the iron. Start lower and turn it up, never overheat or you can lift pads.

http://www.eevblog.com/2014/12/01/ee...rcuits-repair/

Watch this lots of good advice.

[Zippy Zapp]

Originally Posted by ajk

There isn't really a hard rule for temperature - if you use a higher temp it will take less time to do the soldering, so it won't necessarily heat the board or component more overall. 350C is what I usually use and have never had a problem with Amiga work (assuming tin-lead solder).

Chipquick is very useful for desoldering multi-pin parts so a +1 from me

Thanks for the tips and nice to know about not having any problems with Amiga stuff at that temp. I don't want to ruin anything, but I have been using a less power iron that takes forever to heat the joint which to me seems like it is heating up the component for too long a period. But Im not an expert so what do I know.

Definitely going to try out Chipquick on an old PC motherboard to see what it can do.

Originally Posted by Vot

If you start desoldering things with multiple pins or large ground planes its very hard to say as it really depends on the thermal mass of the iron. Start lower and turn it up, never overheat or you can lift pads.

http://www.eevblog.com/2014/12/01/ee...rcuits-repair/

Watch this lots of good advice.

Those videos are awesome. Thats where I got the info for the soldering iron to buy and the temp. That guys awesome.
For me it will be just the 68k socket that I am removing and putting in new socket as listed in this thread. It doesn't look like there is going to be any ground plane to suck away the heat on that. Should have it all tomorrow although don't know if I will have time till the weekend to actually do it.

Thanks All!

[ajk]

Originally Posted by Zippy Zapp

I have been using a less power iron that takes forever to heat the joint which to me seems like it is heating up the component for too long a period.

Not having enough power will do that, but having good heat transfer is also very important; if there is a stubborn joint, add some new solder first, use flux, keep the tip of the iron clean and it will help tremendously.

[bugsymalone666]

is this the right sort of socket?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Precision-...item3f3c4b5db0

I was looking for a good socket source also as I want to make an IDE68K, but I was wondering how you get sockets with pins that are long enough to go through a PC and then deep enough into the socket below?

[demolition]

He's using regular turned pin sockets like the one you link to. The pins are a bit short when going through the PCB which is why he sometimes (always?) adds some turned pin IC strips to extend the pins.

[bugsymalone666]

I was going to say, I have been a bit baffled as to how you get long pin ic sockets, I suppose I could always use header pins offset by 1 hole on pcb matrix board to do the same job.

are these the things you were on about:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turned-Pin...item1c36ceebe3

eg you solder those into the pcb then press the dip socket into those and then chip on top?

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by bugsymalone666

I was going to say, I have been a bit baffled as to how you get long pin ic sockets, I suppose I could always use header pins offset by 1 hole on pcb matrix board to do the same job.

are these the things you were on about:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turned-Pin...item1c36ceebe3

eg you solder those into the pcb then press the dip socket into those and then chip on top?

You can actually remove the plastic shroud from the socket and use the pin, that will then make the pin long enough so you don't need to use another socket underneath the board, the obvious problem with this is it takes too long and fiddly to do. But, if you want to reduce height (and cost) then tha is the way to go.

You need to ensure the hole diameter is at least 0.057" to ensure the pin will fit through the hole. If someone knows a place that sells just the pins, i'd love to hear

[bugsymalone666]

a bit like these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VERO-66-34...item5b03bae3dc


?

I think I may go down the route of socket and header strip, if anything I could probably use a little extra height as my thing will be a matrix pcb and lots of small wires to make an ide68k, I dont have PCB etching stuff and havent dont it yet!

[kipper2k]

wow..

68 quid for 100 pins, thats 68pence each...

assume 4$ for a 64 pin socket, that would be ~6cents each. i know which way i would go

[demolition]

Originally Posted by bugsymalone666

are these the things you were on about:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turned-Pin...item1c36ceebe3

Those are wire wrap sockets and I have seen some devices like kickstart switchers use those sockets. I would not recommend using them as the pins are much thicker and will ruin your sockets. Also, they cannot go into turned pin sockets.

Basically just use turned pin sockets. One is inserted through the pcb from the top, the other connected to its short protruding legs. Then you have normal length pins. Turned pin sockets will connect very well with other turned pins, so they will not disconnect easily, despite the short pins.

[bugsymalone666]

Originally Posted by kipper2k

wow..

68 quid for 100 pins, thats 68pence each...

assume 4$ for a 64 pin socket, that would be ~6cents each. i know which way i would go

yeah but thats ebay for you, and as its been pointed out they arent the right thing exactly anyway.

However what it does point to is that there is the possibility that you can actually get packs of what your after from somewhere!

[kipper2k]

i haven't been able to find any of the round machined type pins, at least for not less than 50cents each. Make you scratch your head when you can buy the sockets with these pins in for next to nothing but single pins cost a bomb.