Amiga 1200 shielding

[XsamX1987]

So I have noticed a few spots of rust on the lower and higher shielding and I would like to keep hold of them as long as possible

what's the best way to fix this steel wool and wd40 or even a bin bag and white vinegar

any other ideas would be great

-------------------------------Update----------------------------- as advised

The top shield has changed from a few rust spots to looking like it has rust dust all over it

how can I just neutralize the rust

Pictures of the top shield

https://postimg.org/image/r3gp6z33d/
https://postimg.org/image/3qinogmzt/

[Lemaru]

I was given an A600 that had experienced a spillage so the back of the keyboard and shielding had corroded a tad. I removed most of the corrosion with fine grit sand paper and a light wipe down with GT85 (poor man's WD40)

Seems to be holding up ok

[prowler]

If you're serious about wanting them to last as long as possible following removal of the corrosion and only a small area is involved, you could tin the affected area with care by applying acid-cored solder¹ using a heavy duty soldering iron.

A larger area might require a hot air gun or even a blowtorch to heat it sufficiently.

In either case, be sure to remove the excess acidic residue afterward by flushing liberally with water.

¹ I can let you have some for this purpose if you wish.

[XsamX1987]

Thanks Lamaru.

Prowler that sounds good to me hmm heavy duty I have a 15watt a 25 watt and a 40watt soldering iron and yes I have a Hot air gun but no Blowtorch lol

Yes there all small about 10 I can see none no bigger then 4mm

That would be awesome of you if you can

[1NOM155]

I have solved that issues by doing chrome plating.

check one of my works over here ( http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php...ration-Project )

[prowler]

Originally Posted by XsamX1987

Prowler that sounds good to me hmm heavy duty I have a 15watt a 25 watt and a 40watt soldering iron and yes I have a Hot air gun but no Blowtorch lol

Yes there all small about 10 I can see none no bigger then 4mm

That would be awesome of you if you can

Today, I sent you some 16 S.W.G (1.6 mm) acid-cored solder y First Class post to repair the corroded areas on your Amiga 1200 RF shields, so you should receive it tomorrow or Thursday.

I have a 65W Solon iron with which I have soldered the nipples onto motorcycle clutch, brake and throttle control cables. I'm not sure whether even this would have sufficient power to get this job done, so the hot air gun would be your best bet. I have no hot air gun, so I would probably use my blowtorch to attempt such a repair.

Provided the corrosion is first removed (the brown or black deposits) with steel wool or fine grit paper as suggested by others above, the solder's acid core will ensure that the stripped area can be tinned readily to give a durable and almost invisible repair when the area is heated.

Using a hot air gun, I would support the shield so that the damaged area is as high as possible with respect to the remainder of the shield and can be heated from the underside while applying the solder with a stabbing motion to the upper surface, so that only its contact with the hot shield melts the solder which will flow onto the job until the damaged area is completely covered with bright metal. Remove excess solder by wiping with a dry cloth while the solder is still molten. If direct heat from the hot air gun melts the solder before the shield is hot enough to do it on its own, then the solder will neither flow properly nor bond to the shield.

Allow to cool and repeat the procedure on the other damaged areas.

You should have enough solder (approx 25 grams) to complete the job, but if you don't, then I can provide some more if you wish.

Good luck!

[XsamX1987]

Thanks Prowler

[Mrz]

there is no need today of shielding in the A1200, and fact is commodore do it to comply some idiotic FCC rules

the shield in the A500,A600 and A1200 is totally obsolete even is done in a crap iron which corrodes easily, the best option is remove such shield because unless you live in the void of the outer space It will continue to corrupt

[demolition]

The bottom shield is quite handy to have for aesthetic purposes and will probably also improve stability since it acts as an additional ground plane.

If you're fine with turning the rust black, then I would recommend a rust converter:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_converter

It basically converts existing rust into an inactive compound which stops further rust from forming.

[Jope]

The biggest benefit of the A1200 bottom shielding is, that it stops the rear of the motherboard from moving up and down when you're plugging stuff into the ports. :-)

[XsamX1987]

Ok so I'm not trying to cheap out or any thing but can I just dunk the shielding in to a vinegar solution

and if not is this the correct rust convertor

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jenolite-R...oAAOSw8HBZHEJK

[demolition]

Not sure what vinegar would accomplish (other than promote even more rust like acids normally do) but the rust converter on your link looks like the right stuff.

[indigolemon]

White vinegar is actually pretty effective at rust removal. Have soaked car parts in it in the past and they've come out rust free

[demolition]

Well, it is really cheap to try so I guess it might be worth a shot. Just make sure to rinse it off completely when done so the shield is not soaking in acid for a long time.

The exposed areas would probably be prone to new rust-formations though unless some protection is applied to the exposed areas, for example a clear coat laquer.

[prowler]

Hi XsamX1987,

Following our PM conversation and after reading today's posts here, my advice would be to repair the small amount of damage to the bottom shield by soldering and just remove the upper shield.

Using white vinegar to remove the rust deposits beforehand could speed up the soldering process. Even so, I would recommend using the acid-cored solder I sent you.

[XsamX1987]

OK thanks every one and prowler I will acid core on the base shield, as I have bought the rust converter is it worth using on the top shield still ?

[prowler]

Originally Posted by XsamX1987

...as I have bought the rust converter is it worth using on the top shield still ?

It's entirely up to you. It serves no useful purpose thesedays, unlike the bottom shield which helps to hold the motherboard securely.

[pandy71]

My advise - take decent hot air blower (hot air gun - they are just hotter air dryer), buy tin paste used by plumbers in copper pipe installations, remove rust wit sandpaper, place small amount of tin paste and use in moderate way hot air (maximum temperature from hot air is approx 500C deg so it should be safe and discoloration should not occurs) - if you have no experience with hot air gun you can practice on cheap bakery pan or plate - they are made from same type material (tin plated steel) - do not use Teflon or ceramic coated plate! One you searching for has same color - light silver - as shielding, they are made from same material.

Tin based solder paste - something like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Burnle...-/141749412098 - they are easily available in nearest depot on plumbers section - copper pipe.