Quote:
Originally Posted by ajk
In my experience the process works well, but the yellowing does tend to return to some degree. Using a method where the part is fully immersed in liquid is safest; if the peroxide is allowed to dry the result will be blotchy. Treating colorful parts is a bit hit and miss as to how the dyes react, I'd limit myself to beige Amiga and Commodore stuff unless there is an opportunity to do a test piece first.
I haven't noticed any increase in brittleness with the parts I've done - as far as I can tell only the very surface is effected. However, many of these old parts are certainly brittle to begin with.
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Precisely my experience--the yellowing returns over time. However, I only experimented on a few small non-valuable pieces. The "sunlight only" method on a cool day caused an obvious and very fast increase in yellowing here.
For the last 10-15 years I (occasionally and sparingly) use Plexus and
210 Plastic Cleaner, and none of those items have yellowed. Could be a sealing effect and/or UV protection from the product, could be that the items wouldn't have yellowed anyway.
No more peroxide experiments for me, IMHO color matching plastic dye/paint and an airbrush is a better method, as it will leave the original texture of the plastic intact and eliminate the yellowing problem. Naturally, that approach requires working around original labels without damage and just more hassle in general, or might not be feasible at all in some cases (A3000D faceplate).