speedball two original disk
 

I've found a genuine speedball 2 disk in my box of dodgy floppies that I've been cleaning. As it opens it says crystal cracked which I pressure means its not the genuine game. Does anyone have a copy of the OEM game I can copy over via greaseweazel or something?

Depending on the disk and publisher you have, you can download the original IPF image - search on oldgamefinder.com

http://www.oldgamesfinder.com/?q=Speedball+2&m=-4

IPF's are available on the EAB FTP too:

Interestingly, the KIXX version used a stolen crack that Galahad did so it has no Copylock, mentioned in Galahads WHDLoad for Speedball 2, so your original is not the KIXX version is it :D

The Imageworks and The Bitmap Brothers Vol 1 releases both use Copylock, the US release uses a code sheet and only works in NTSC, it will load in PAL to the menu/code screens but the actual game won't load!

When it says crystal cracked; it looks like part of the game ie the same style. But the graphics are wonky. It could be a bad disc with an original game, maybe.

What does the disk label look like, check the ones on HOL

Seeing as all versions of SB2 are in IPF format you can copy back the relevant version!

In all honesty, I wouldn't waste your time writing the original.

Find the Dual Crew cracked version, if the text at the start bugs you, edit it back to say "Imageworks Presents" and write that version to your disk.

1. No farting with greaseweazle
2. IF you have A1200 or an accelerated Amiga, it will actually work on your Amiga because of the way the protection has been removed on the Dual Crew version.

The copylock on anything above 68010 fails, it doesn't decode the protection properly, meaning it doesn't fix the ingame stuff that needs to be modified for the game to work.

The Dual Crew version avoids the copylock routine entirely, and modifies the code necessary for the game to operate correctly.

My two cents worth

EDIT: I've done it for you, I didn't edit the text originally, I used code to move the text into place, have removed all that so externally looks like the original.

In the zone if you want it.

Seeing as the KIXX version was a 'crack' anyway the one in The Zone will do nicely :great

Thanks for the help with this lads, I wish I had your skills

And after all that the disk is scratched so the new game had the same issues.

Replace the floppy disk media with a known good donor one.

How to do that? I've never been able to separate the case without breaking it

Probably the easier way is start at the top corners where the write protect is and prise open each corner so the top half separates then slide out the disc and replace with a new one, just put the write protect tab back in if it falls out before gluing it together!

I would also write the new disk out first and test it in X-Copy Checkdisk to make sure all tracks are green then break both disks open and carefully replace the disk without touching the new disks surface. When gluing back use glue that doesn't melt plastics as some super glues do, Loctite do glues for plastics.

For opening it at the metal slider end: https://youtu.be/TkAYFrYhOvM

Or what BarryB said about opening at the label end. (I use a Stanley knife to slide in between the case and break the joints - put the disk upright, with the Stanley knife on the joint and hit down on it with another hard object).

I use B7000 to glue the floppy case back together at the joints.

The shutter end is more tricky as there is the shutter spring to be aware of and how to put it back, the shutter itself (and you can crack part of the plastic that forms the lip where the shutter rides along), plus there are a few more welds to break on that end so it's far easier to go the write protect end if it doesn't have a paper label over both halves, which Speedball 2 doesn't appear to have!

The paper label covering both halves usually means breaking the shutter end if you don't want to damage the label, so personal choice which end you open but some disks seem to have stronger welds than others and I've broken the plastic around the weld as it was that strong so some people use a sharp stanley knife or craft knife to slice through the welds instead.