Zetro, Narmi

Will either of you be doing a small run of the boards and/or selling kits to "interested parties" ???

@Narmi Awsome stuff there Narmi!

Awsome indeed..., I will have remake a slightly larger design, after all I have BIG FAT Sausages for fingers!

@Methanoid

I will be running off about 4 of these, so you can have one at cost... wich depending on components I suspect it being less than £5 inc postage.

@Zetro

The parts cost me close to $20 CAD, of which $14 was for the AD724 chip. I also had to buy a 100-pack of the 75-ohm resistors, even though I only needed 6. If you're making several boards, then you can save money by buying in larger quantities. The tantalum capacitor isn't cheap either, but I have a bunch salvaged from an old 486 motherboard.

@Methanoid

I'm not planning on making any more boards, but if there is enough interest, I would like to have some boards professionally made by Futurlec.

For a run of 10 boards, the cost per board is $3. Parts would be around $15, so with postage I figure about $20 for a kit (roughly £10).

If anybody knows of a cheaper source for the AD724, speak up! Both Digikey and Newark want $11 CAD.

@narmi

well my friend, I may be able to help you source a better deal on those AD724JR encoders.

http://www.analog.com/en/prod/0,,765_798_AD724,00.html

these are about $10 a piece, (just over £5) but i am sure i have seen others some where cheaper.... let me lookie...

@Narmi

hmmm the only tantalum 10uf 35v these from futurlec :)

http://www.futurlec.com/cgi-bin/sear...e=20&page_no=3

..... well i was going to etch the boards at home in one print and then split / drill and solder.... I have most of the components like the 75ohm, may need to pik up a few 15pf / 150 caps but I dont mind buying in bulk as i have a lot of other project needing these too....

Go for it Zetro. I've started working on another project, I'll post pictures in a few days when it is done.

The 15pF cap might need to be changed to a 20pF, depending on the crystal you use. That cap provides a load for the crystal, the correct value will be specified in the datasheet for the crystal. The crystal I found at Newark needs a 20pF load. Just check before you buy.

Okay, with great thanks to Narmi (and I mean GREAT THANKS!!!) praise him now... *ahem*

okies heres a Fat Fingers Edition for those of us that see SMD components as a way to improve the effecientcy of hair loss.

*click to make bigger*

http://www.guildserver.co.uk/data_im...ideo-thumb.png

you can download the eagal board from here and import it into your own project.

be advised, although this looks okay, its not been 100% checked off let alone tested in anyway... if you use this design its down to you if you blow anything up or damage yourself.

again, Great Work Namri!

I shall keep my eyes on my datasheets! thanks for the heads up :)

Awsome Hardware Pr0n... !!! my favourite thing!!

Other projects eh?!?!!?.... OooOo intrueged!

On another good note, I just received some sample Amtel ATMEGA's through the postie today... gonna be building a 2 button Amiga joystick to USB :) I look forward to that :D its quite simple too.. :D

Hello,

Verry interesting hardware project you made together zetro and narmi.

I think with enough publicity, you can sell enough.


This little hardware could be used also with a1200 and an elbox TV card. Taking the rgb amiga and enter the signal on A PCTV PCI card with the svideo output of the RV card ???

For having a great PAL signal on the elbox TV software.

Verry great to see hardware amiga project for the amiga.

bye.

@mrodfr

I think there is a lot out there that would really benefit from SVideo, I intend to build a couple of internal AND external units :)

A huge thanks goes to Narmi, for board design and obviously without wich I would still be scratching my head over encoders LOL.

Hello,

Yes, you are right. lot of amiga users will benefit with svideo from an amiga to hardware users have.

I don't know where video signal came from the amiga motherboard to the little hardware who create a svideo output (if I understand well). Be carefull if fitted between a bus board.

Apparently, the little hardware could be placed where the users want, just a ribbon came from the motherboard ???

Yes, hardware like that could be sell a lot. I'm surprising that jens shoenfeld don't do that before ??

Zetro, you might want to reconsider making the board bigger after you look at this picture. In fact, I can see ways to make it even smaller :).

http://www3.telus.net/narmi/IMG_0613s.jpg

As you can see, the board will fit nicely between the video DAC, video port, and the two big capacitors on either side. All of the signals are available within that area too, the wires you see are soldered underneath the white cardboard I put in as an insulator. The composite video out is wired to the monochrome video connector on board; I haven't tried the s-video yet but I'm sure it works too.

BTW, the computer is my A500+ which has a PAL agnus. I didn't post a picture of the bottom of the board because it is pretty ugly, the definition of nasty soldered. This is the first board I've made using the laser printer toner transfer method, and it didn't come out that well. The only component that you cannot see in this picture is the AD724 because it is a surface mount chip, so it is soldiered on the other side.

@narmi

Ahhhh realized hardware.... nothign better looking than functioning proto's :D
it is indeed good to see :D

I am curious with about your toner transfer method, do you think it was the paper, the toner or etching process that gave the results ?

I have used the toner for a little while, and i found that different paper required quite varing degreess of heat IE length of time with the iron lol... upto 10 minutes on some paper.. (generally theres a nice sizzle when i put the board in water ... followed by wife asking what that smell is) However I have found that after 4 minutes its safe to use the steam function as this gently begins to soften the paper. but I found you are still looking at 10 mins of warm scrubbing afterwards...

I did have some photo paper from fuji... that stuff just would not come off.. (well not without lifing the copper of the board lol) ... i even tried the dish washer on intensive for 70mins at 80c lol but in the end i had to throw it all away..

I found that diffent etching methods also produced varing results... using the old ghetto method of a bowl of etchant and gently agitating it, not only would take forever but sometimes the toner would float off (generally on the 90degree track corners)

to solve this and a lot of other etching problems I was having I would end up having I built a bubble tank, using a small hexagon starter fish tank and air pump to air stones. from that I get a lot of micro air bubbles hitting the surface of the boards... and its very even too... less than 2-3 minutes etching time... I think i may posti some images if anyones interested in building there own... its safe and re-usable ... unlike the wifes china LOL...

I have to admit SVideo on my A1200 i really cannot wait to get to grips with it I really appreciate your thread!!!

Guys, how difficult is to make a flicker fixer / scandoubler fot use with VGA monitors?

well make should be as simple as the RGB to SVideo. but to design would be definately a lot more difficult :)

Much more difficult than the RGB -> S-Video adapter. AverLogic makes a chip (AL250) that will do the task, but the circuit design is more complicated. For starters, the chip has 64 pins vs. 16 for the AD724. It's on my list of things to do, but it will take some time.

My current project (unrelated to video) is held up right now because I've run out of solder :).

LOL and theres me thinking i was the only one LOL...

I found one in my old stuff... Not sure if it works.

Thanks narmi. :great

has anyone made a PAL version of this as yet please? How does it perform? Is the picture clear and stable?