English Amiga Board


Go Back   English Amiga Board > News

 
 
Thread Tools
Old 26 February 2015, 05:13   #581
dJOS
Registered User

dJOS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 856
Yep, guilty as charged!
dJOS is offline  
AdSense AdSense  
Old 26 February 2015, 05:34   #582
ransom1122
Registered User
ransom1122's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Omnicorp
Posts: 2,600
Quote:
Originally Posted by dJOS View Post
Yep, guilty as charged!
Steve Vizard & the Hinch demos are great
ransom1122 is offline  
Old 26 February 2015, 05:58   #583
dJOS
Registered User

dJOS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 856
Quote:
Originally Posted by ransom1122 View Post
Steve Vizard & the Hinch demos are great
They are 2 of my all time favs, I found the disks in a box of my a500 floppies about 2 years ago and made ADF's of them - the disks still work great too. It's amazing that I didnt throw the disks out after more than 15 years and 5 interstate moves!
dJOS is offline  
Old 30 March 2015, 12:48   #584
Solo761
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Croatia
Age: 37
Posts: 333
Just stumbled upon this and rememberd "voes by prolific" some people have. This may help, apparently there are drivers for fake prolific chips that work on Win7 32/64, maybe flashing would work with them

http://nerdralph.blogspot.in/2013/09...tl-serial.html
Solo761 is offline  
Old 01 April 2015, 00:51   #585
lesta_smsc
Registered User

lesta_smsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1,223
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo761 View Post
Just stumbled upon this and rememberd "voes by prolific" some people have. This may help, apparently there are drivers for fake prolific chips that work on Win7 32/64, maybe flashing would work with them

http://nerdralph.blogspot.in/2013/09...tl-serial.html
Not related to this. But Solo761. Just wanted to say THANK YOU for your Mkick disk you made to softboot A500 1.3 to 3.1! Works like a treat on my A500 with 512kb expansion. I also used the original disk rather than the 2 updated memory chips version.
lesta_smsc is offline  
Old 01 April 2015, 11:29   #586
Solo761
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Croatia
Age: 37
Posts: 333
I'm glad it's useful to someone . Original version should work for most people, other two versions were tries to get it to work with kipper2k's 8MB CF board. For me (somewhat odd configuration, A500 rev8a, modded to A500+ 1MB chip ram + 512kB expansion, that gets added to chip since it works as a500+) it worked on and off so I tried to specify memory locations to load kickstart in case mkick sometimes borked this by itself. But it didn't make difference. On vanilla A500 (512 chip / 512 fast) it worked without issues for some reason.
Solo761 is offline  
Old 01 April 2015, 21:57   #587
lesta_smsc
Registered User

lesta_smsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1,223
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo761 View Post
I'm glad it's useful to someone . Original version should work for most people, other two versions were tries to get it to work with kipper2k's 8MB CF board. For me (somewhat odd configuration, A500 rev8a, modded to A500+ 1MB chip ram + 512kB expansion, that gets added to chip since it works as a500+) it worked on and off so I tried to specify memory locations to load kickstart in case mkick sometimes borked this by itself. But it didn't make difference. On vanilla A500 (512 chip / 512 fast) it worked without issues for some reason.
I presume mine is the vanilla version. Now I'm hungry...
lesta_smsc is offline  
Old 18 May 2015, 18:51   #588
danko
Registered User
danko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Italy
Age: 38
Posts: 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by kipper2k View Post
Here is an updated buzzer mod, uses a 5v buzzer now connected to the 5v rail ...

1 x BC547 or similar bipolar transistor
1 x 1k resistor
1 x magnetic type buzzer (Digikey # 668-1373-nd




below shows the buzzer attached to the top part of the case, fits nicely

Transistor bipolar BS270 is work for this mod?
danko is offline  
Old 19 May 2015, 05:15   #589
kipper2k
Registered User

 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Thunder Bay, Canada
Posts: 3,617
Quote:
Originally Posted by danko View Post
Transistor bipolar BS270 is work for this mod?
it should but for compatibility sake i would stick with this series...

https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/BC/BC547.pdf

I will have pictures hopefully very soon on 2 new floppy emulators
kipper2k is offline  
Old 19 May 2015, 10:37   #590
Jeff_HxC2001
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Paris / France
Posts: 463
Quote:
Originally Posted by danko View Post
Transistor bipolar BS270 is work for this mod?
I don't recommend at all these kind of mod. In my firmware i will provide the sound output on a GPIO of the MCU (one available on the jumper block). A direct driving may be enough (no transistor at all).
By this way you don't have to drawn current from the open collector floppy bus and make the thing unreliable...
Jeff_HxC2001 is offline  
Old 15 June 2015, 21:08   #591
danko
Registered User
danko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Italy
Age: 38
Posts: 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo761 View Post
Dang, I had some buzzers I got with PC cases, who knows where they ended . Luckily I found some one ebay, 10 pcs for $2. At first I looked for "piezo speaker" and found only 5 pcs for $4-5.

My remote mod is finally finished, it took a long time for attiny's to arrive . Here's how it looks, Arduino is used only as 5V power supply

[ Show youtube player ]

And how it works inside A500, sensor is sensitive enough to work without "direct aim"

[ Show youtube player ]

Here's the schematic



And this is how it works:

Button push on gotek connects STM MCU pins PC7 (right button, counter up) or PC8 (left button, counter down) to GND. That's how it registers a click.

ATtiny receives signal from IR sensor on PB0 and depending on code received toggles it's PB1 (counter up) or PB2 (counter down) from high to low for short amount of time. This triggers STM pins PC7 and/or PC8 who and registers as a click.

LED that's connected to ATtiny's PB4 is used to signal when the remote is tuned. I'm using small universal remote that supports a lot of devices, it cycles through them when you press mute and when it gets to one that ATtiny recognizes it will use this LED to send signal so we know when to release the mute button. This only needs to be done once, when prepping new remote.

THere's a jumper connected to PB3, it's purpose is to separate two code sets at hardware level. ATtiny recognizes 4 code sets. If your TV turnes out to react to the same codes as ATtiny you can simply switch to next one and solve this issue. It wouldn't be nice if with ADF change you change TV channel . But it could be an issue the other way arround. ATtiny listens to all 4 code sets all the time. You could switch this mini remote to other set and solve interference with TV, but that wouldn't solve the other way around, ATtiny would react to TV remote. This jumper tries to solve that, it separates those 4 code sets to 2 and 2 on hardware level. If ATtiny reacts to TV remote simply put the jumper to those pins or remove it, what ever was at first, and it won't react to those codes anymore.

How it looks inside



Schematic is OK, but I have to rework PCB, this one works, but it could be better (read easier) to assemble. Mostly with capacitor that's under ATtiny. It's reeeeealy tight fit and that needs to be changed.
It works with either 5V or 3.3V power supply, STM MCU works at 3.3V but input pins are 5V tolerant so it shouldn't matter. At first I used 5V, then I tried 3.3V and it also worked fine. ATtiny runs at 8 MHz (interal oscillator) and that works with 3.3V, only case where 5V would be required is if it's run at 16 MHz (Internal PLL), that requires minimum of 4.3V. But it works fine at 8 MHz so that shouldn't be an issue. If anyone's interested I can upload eagle files and ATtiny hex and source.
Hi,this remote control work this mod?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Keys-Black...item3f4db8ef01
danko is offline  
Old 21 July 2015, 19:07   #592
Solo761
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Croatia
Age: 37
Posts: 333
Oops, have't seen this post.

I think it wouldn't work (at least with current IR receiver firmware). It doesn't say what kind of remote it is. It could be made to work with it, but first you'd need to record codes it sends and then add them to the firmware. Not really hard, but you'd need arduino board.

This is the remote I used, here are two, only difference is color, one is white, the other one is black

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181376306618
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331439837335

Thing is they're universal remotes that cycle through supported codes while you keep mute button pressed. My firmware "listens" for these codes and when it recieves mute code it recognizes it blinks it's led to let you know remote is on correct IR code set.

Other remotes might work, but depending on the way they cycle through codes it could be harder to tune it. I hardcoded 4 code sets (2 + 2, sets switchable via jumper), one of them should correspond to LG remotes and the other to Sony remotes (other two I don't know, I had these TV's so I know they reacted along with GOTEK). So if you set your remote to Sony or LG codes it might work.
Solo761 is offline  
Old 17 August 2015, 22:02   #593
desiv
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 1,173
OK, question about framing/support..
(And no, I don't have a 3D printer.. ;-)

So, I found out my issue with kickstart (apparently the method I was using to create ADFs wasn't a good one (they were old) and my kryoflux to ADF works; not sure what I did wrong before, but..), and I CAN boot my A1000 off of the Gotek!!

Also, I found that if I take the Gotek out of its case, the USB and buttons fit nicely where the disk would go in, and the LCD fits nicely just outside that.

But.. Right now, I have a rubber band and a few paperclips (on the outside of the case holding the rubber bands) holding the gotek board against the inside of the case.

It's enough to know that it works and lines up nicely, but even I know rubber bands aren't the best long term solution.. ;-)

I need to come up with some kind of frame to hold it in place, probably which lines up with the holes that held the old drive in place..

I've done some basic electronics, but not building guides to hold in cards..

So, thoughts on how I should proceed?

I was thinking trying to use some plastic sticks (I can probably find something??) and super gluing them together?

Or possibly thin metal strips bent into place?

Is there something that works better/worse for custom frames for electronics???
Luckily, this is going inside a case, so I'm OK if it looks bad, but still would like it to survive my plugging in the USB stick..

Any help you could provide would be.. um.. er.. helpful.. ;-)

Thanx,

OK, this is what I have done:


And from the front, it looks like:


Yes, those are cut down plastic forks.. ;-)
I didn't realize that they lined up as well as they did.
I can add 2 more if I need to.. We'll see how stable it is...

For the Gotek:
Slot 1 is my kickwork boot disk that boots KS 1.3, then loads the RAM and IDE/CF drivers (tomthul models) and finishes the boot off of the CF card.
Slot2 is a standard KS 1.3.
I think slot 3 is a KS 1.3/WB1.3 floppy (no RAM/IDE drivers).

Then I have a few games starting at slot 5.
Don't want to put too many in there, as I won't remember what is in what slot. ;-)

desiv

Last edited by desiv; 18 August 2015 at 05:57.
desiv is offline  
Old 19 August 2015, 06:34   #594
Gimpy
Registered User
Gimpy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Liverpool, UK
Posts: 13
Hey guys!

I did my own mod using a PNP darlington (MPSA63), a 1K resistor, a 1uF capacitor and a buzzer.

This circuit is easier and works like a charm!

The buzzer I used is a SBT-12 https://www.westfloridacomponents.co...+SBT-1212.html but any buzzer 5V to 12V with any frequency should work.

The peak generated by Gary is so tiny that it has to be stretched by the cap and a transistor with a large Beta or else, you can't hear it.

Result really sound like a floppy!
Gimpy is offline  
Old 19 August 2015, 06:41   #595
dJOS
Registered User

dJOS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimpy View Post
Hey guys!

I did my own mod using a PNP darlington (MPSA63), a 1K resistor, a 1uF capacitor and a buzzer.

This circuit is easier and works like a charm!

The buzzer I used is a SBT-12 https://www.westfloridacomponents.co...+SBT-1212.html but any buzzer 5V to 12V with any frequency should work.

The peak generated by Gary is so tiny that it has to be stretched by the cap and a transistor with a large Beta or else, you can't hear it.

Result really sound like a floppy!
So instead of the very synthetic "beeps" most sound mods make, this sounds properly mechanical?
dJOS is offline  
Old 19 August 2015, 15:53   #596
Gimpy
Registered User
Gimpy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Liverpool, UK
Posts: 13
Not entirely but the output waveform is more natural than only a pulse;

You can clearly see the two charging curves of both transistors in the darlington and the capacitor charge
Gimpy is offline  
Old 08 September 2015, 21:06   #597
joedredd
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimpy View Post
Hey guys!

I did my own mod using a PNP darlington (MPSA63), a 1K resistor, a 1uF capacitor and a buzzer.

This circuit is easier and works like a charm!

The buzzer I used is a SBT-12 https://www.westfloridacomponents.co...+SBT-1212.html but any buzzer 5V to 12V with any frequency should work.

The peak generated by Gary is so tiny that it has to be stretched by the cap and a transistor with a large Beta or else, you can't hear it.

Result really sound like a floppy!
I'm no electronics hobbyist but can solder things where they need to go. Do you have a photo of how you've connected so I can understand the points you've used? Thanks.
 
Old 09 September 2015, 11:54   #598
breech
Asking stupid questions
breech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Syd.Oz
Posts: 123
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimpy View Post
Result really sound like a floppy!
Any change of a sound sample, perhaps a YT vid?
breech is online now  
Old 24 October 2015, 12:49   #599
voyager_1701e
Registered User

 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Sydney / AUSTRALIA
Posts: 174
Hi All,
Ive read the entire thread, and Googled with no direct answer...

I have flashed numerous Goteks for the Amiga....and I have all manner of USB sticks and SD cards with USB adapters working fine, except this Sandisk Cruzer Fit 8GB. I have noted others saying this particular model works OK, and these were bought from a reputable Aussie retailer.

I have cleaned it, reformatted it, tried different allocation sizes and numerous copies of SELECTOR.ADF...all to no avail. I put the USB stick in the Gotek, it flashes 000 then ---. I have tried 2 brand new sticks, both with the same issue. I have the same model in a 16Gb and it works perfectly. Of course in the PC they work perfectly.

There is general mention of some sticks not being compatible with the Gotek...does anyone have any thoughts?
voyager_1701e is offline  
Old 24 October 2015, 18:53   #600
Akira
Registered User

Akira's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: New York
Posts: 18,304
Quote:
Originally Posted by voyager_1701e View Post
I have noted others saying this particular model works OK, and these were bought from a reputable Aussie retailer.
That model is annoying. It has given me trouble with my 1541U-II as well. Something about it makes it a bit incompatible I guess. It works with some things but doesn't with others.
My iBook G4 also does NOT like that USB stick.

I know it's super tempting to get it because of its ultra small profile (so it doesn't stick out of your AMiga much), but I bought two different ones and they have all given me trouble. I ended up using them where they worked: my Raspberry Pi and my XBox 360.
Akira is offline  
AdSense AdSense  
 


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cd32 from analogic computers not working properly fondpondforever Amiga scene 11 22 August 2013 15:24
Love Emulators? - Dgen & Hatari emulators Paul News 17 19 January 2012 19:28
A1200 floppy not working mtb support.Hardware 5 22 November 2010 10:05
floppy df0 working / not working Dave_wb support.Hardware 3 07 January 2009 10:11
Guinness Book entry with 274 working Computers/Consoles Retro-Nerd Retrogaming General Discussion 4 25 August 2007 20:56

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +2. The time now is 14:00.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Page generated in 0.42470 seconds with 12 queries