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Old 19 April 2014, 16:30   #321
Killseeker
 
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Have re-soldered but still no luck I'm afraid
Just get the same message every time.

Either my soldering is absolutely rubbish or something else is going on here...
Is there a way to ping the serial converter?
Can I do an echo test?

Maybe the connector cables I received are faulty. Only paid $5 for the unit, get what you pay for I guess...
 
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Old 19 April 2014, 17:09   #322
JanciB
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I needed to set the baud rate in the Device manager for the driver to 115200 and parity to Even.
I used win xp in virtual machine on win 7 home 64bit.

J.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Killseeker View Post
Have re-soldered but still no luck I'm afraid
Just get the same message every time.

Either my soldering is absolutely rubbish or something else is going on here...
Is there a way to ping the serial converter?
Can I do an echo test?

Maybe the connector cables I received are faulty. Only paid $5 for the unit, get what you pay for I guess...
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Old 19 April 2014, 19:17   #323
desiv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomse View Post
It just means that you didn't have connection
Yep,
Just mentioning it in case it might be something that other people are having trouble with..

Not sure if the plugs (that came with my USB/serial adapter) maybe deform just enough to lose the connection if the are plugged in ALL the way, or if the header pins I added might have some coating on them I should have cleaned off..
Haven't tested that yet...

I only mention the pins possibly needing cleaning, even tho they were new, because when I got the clock and battery for my ACA1230, it didn't work. The word from the thread was to clean the connector and the battery a bit, even tho all were new. So I did, and it has worked ever since..

desiv
(funny troubleshooting side story.. I couldn't figure out why sometimes the green LED was ON and sometimes it wasn't when I was trying.. Then I finally got it.. When I had my magnifier visor on with it's light ON, the LED looked like it was ON too because it was reflecting the light.. D'oh! ;-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Killseeker View Post
Maybe the connector cables I received are faulty. Only paid $5 for the unit, get what you pay for I guess...
The serial ones?
I believe you can test that..
(Haven't tried this tho)

You should be able to connect the send to the receive (nothing with the POWER wires..) and load a terminal program. (Hyperterm or ??)

I would think you should be able to see what you type (echo) if you loop them.
Should be able to test the serial device and it's cables that way..

desiv

Last edited by TCD; 21 April 2014 at 00:51. Reason: Back-to-back posts merged
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Old 21 April 2014, 00:41   #324
amigo-mexicano
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordp View Post
I had this problem also, however my issue was that the Gotek firmware was read-protected. I had to disable that with:

Code:
stm32flash -k /dev/ttyUSB0
before attempting to write with:

Code:
stm32flash -w CortexAmigaFloppyEmulator_1.05a.hex /dev/ttyUSB0
Hope it helps.
Thanks for your help!

Unfortunately, same result:

Code:
stm32flash - http://stm32flash.googlecode.com/

Serial Config: 57600 8E1
Failed to get init ACK from device
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Old 21 April 2014, 00:45   #325
desiv
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That's the same error i was getting.
Double check your cables, and if you are using plugs on headers, back them out a bit..

I am assuming a dmesg is showing something like this when you plug in your cable:
[13880.473791] pl2303 2-1:1.0: pl2303 converter detected
[13880.485429] usb 2-1: pl2303 converter now attached to ttyUSB0
[13880.485475] usbcore: registered new interface driver pl2303
[13880.485480] pl2303: Prolific PL2303 USB to serial adaptor driver

OK, I just tested it with minicom in Linux. If you are using a debian variant (Ubuntu, Mint, etc), just do this:
sudo apt-get install minicom
sudo -D /dev/ttyUSB0
(assuming ttyUSB0 is what you saw in your dmesg output)

Then add a jumper wire between the send/receive wires with your serial adapter. (on mine, that is white/green)
Make sure you're not doing anything with the power from the serial adapter. Just TX/RX


Whatever you type should echo back.
If you aren't sure, do a CTRL-a and E (that turns on local echo) and you should see whatever you typed twice.

That way, you know your usb/serial adapter is working. Also, with a multimeter, you probably want to double check your voltage on the power wires to make sure that is working also.

Beyond that, it's probably the connection (bad connection, bad soldering, etc).

desiv

Last edited by desiv; 21 April 2014 at 01:00.
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Old 21 April 2014, 00:50   #326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desiv View Post
That's the same error i was getting.
Double check your cables, and if you are using plugs on headers, back them out a bit..

I am assuming a dmesg is showing something like this when you plug in your cable:
[13880.473791] pl2303 2-1:1.0: pl2303 converter detected
[13880.485429] usb 2-1: pl2303 converter now attached to ttyUSB0
[13880.485475] usbcore: registered new interface driver pl2303
[13880.485480] pl2303: Prolific PL2303 USB to serial adaptor driver

desiv
Checked the cables, plug them again (backing them out a bit), now it says:

Code:
stm32flash - http://stm32flash.googlecode.com/

Serial Config: 57600 8E1
Failed to read byte: read_byte: Undefined error: 0
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Old 21 April 2014, 01:04   #327
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Yep, that's another error I was getting from time to time..
Try resetting the adapter.
(that wasn't as easy for me, as I didn't solder in pins for that. probably should have)

Make sure you have a jumper on the first 2 pins (to enter programming mode) and DS0 enable on the GOTEK.

desiv
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Old 21 April 2014, 01:11   #328
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Tried the reset, also unplug 5v line, also unplug all and reconnect.. I have soldered pins and the programming mode is ON. Also have a jumper on DS0.

I got back to "Failed to get init ACK from device" again...

If I check dmesg, it just says "PL-2303/X V1.5.1 start, Prolific" (I'm on OS X 10.9.2 Mavericks).
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Old 21 April 2014, 01:14   #329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H.M View Post
BTW : About the piezzo mod -> Nice. I think that the modification can be less difficult with a mosfet. have you tried this?
An update on this: A MOSFET on its own doesn't work because the Step pulse is so narrow. A MOSFET followed by a lowly BC547 works a treat, however - the long storage time of the latter widens the Step pulse nicely. An updated schematic will follow.
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Old 21 April 2014, 01:48   #330
desiv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amigo-mexicano View Post
\If I check dmesg, it just says "PL-2303/X V1.5.1 start, Prolific" (I'm on OS X 10.9.2 Mavericks).
Not familiar with OSX, sorry.

Can you load up a terminal program (like minicom or ?) and verify the adapter is working and that the port is correct?

desiv
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Old 21 April 2014, 22:15   #331
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And the "final" schematic for the Piezo mod - I've done four drives now, modded, tested and working
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Old 21 April 2014, 22:17   #332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robinsonb5 View Post
And the "final" schematic for the Piezo mod - I've done four drives now, modded, tested and working
Good news! please post a pics!
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Old 22 April 2014, 01:55   #333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danko View Post
Good news! please post a pics!
OK sure - but it won't be pretty - The circuit's done as a "rats nest"!

The brown resistor at the top right is 270R in the picture, but I since changed it for a 68R which gives more volume. The actual value's not important, provided it's significantly smaller than the drain resistor across the sounder.)

I double-sided-taped the sounder to the base of the Gotek box (I did think about taping it to the lid instead, but I figured in a few years' time the tape may get old, the sounder might fall off and short something out. Much less likely to happen if the sounder's on the base.)
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Old 22 April 2014, 04:58   #334
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AWESOME!!!

:-)

desiv
(That's your definition of a rat's nest? Remind me never to show you any pics of my soldering.. ;-)
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Old 22 April 2014, 05:51   #335
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Any update on a possible Atari ST firmware for the Gotek?
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Old 23 April 2014, 20:55   #336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robinsonb5 View Post
OK sure - but it won't be pretty - The circuit's done as a "rats nest"!

The brown resistor at the top right is 270R in the picture, but I since changed it for a 68R which gives more volume. The actual value's not important, provided it's significantly smaller than the drain resistor across the sounder.)

I double-sided-taped the sounder to the base of the Gotek box (I did think about taping it to the lid instead, but I figured in a few years' time the tape may get old, the sounder might fall off and short something out. Much less likely to happen if the sounder's on the base.)
You can make a list of components?
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Old 24 April 2014, 01:39   #337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danko View Post
You can make a list of components?
1 x Piezo sounder
1 x BC547 or similar bipolar transistor
1 x 2N7000, BS270 or similar MOSFET.
1 x 68 Ohm Resistor (value not critical - higher resistance -> lower volume)
1 x 18k resistor
1 x 5K6 resistor
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Old 24 April 2014, 22:39   #338
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My full kit is on the way, which 4 Pin header should I order that would suit this best?

Also, how do I know which cable goes where, are they all labelled according to the guide?
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Old 24 April 2014, 23:51   #339
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New Drive arrived (a White/Grey one)
Flashed the 1.05a Firmware to it

and Re-Tried the DISKCOPY test

Got a bit further but still no joy


[ Show youtube player ]

[ Show youtube player ]

I can copy from the Gotek to an External
but not the reverse even if the external is the Boot Drive
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Old 25 April 2014, 11:43   #340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robinsonb5 View Post
1 x Piezo sounder
1 x BC547 or similar bipolar transistor
1 x 2N7000, BS270 or similar MOSFET.
1 x 68 Ohm Resistor (value not critical - higher resistance -> lower volume)
1 x 18k resistor
1 x 5K6 resistor
For piezo what diameter tips?
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