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Old 27 June 2012, 22:38   #41
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lucky sod
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Old 27 June 2012, 22:55   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spanner View Post
Sorry there was only one on ebay..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1708680052...#ht_546wt_1270

Whats the 2 white connectors on the right,one of them is near the power input..?

There are some going from Ģ21.99 on ebay..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3006830156...ht_5714wt_1037


the white connecter is a 5 volts power connector(it comes with a cable that can be plugged into here)in the top right.

the one below is for firmware updates(dont touch this one)




you will find it will come with two cables one is for the power(already mentioned)and the other is for connecting rgb signals.
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Old 27 June 2012, 23:26   #43
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Look what I found..

[ Show youtube player ]
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Old 27 June 2012, 23:37   #44
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Is the GBS 8220 the same as the older version GBS 8200,I mean is the video the same..??
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Old 27 June 2012, 23:41   #45
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Anyone need a manual..

This is for GBS 8200..

http://info-coach.fr/atari/hardware/video/GBS-8200.pdf
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Old 27 June 2012, 23:41   #46
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Is the GBS 8220 the same as the older version GBS 8200,I mean is the video the same..??


yep.
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Old 27 June 2012, 23:56   #47
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One more question:

Will this work using the usb power like from a PC..?
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Old 28 June 2012, 00:28   #48
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Quote:
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Will this work using the usb power like from a PC..?
Not sure how many AMPs the PC puts out, but I'd be careful.
The USB standard is pretty lax about voltage (between 4.75 V and 5.25 V I think) and this device wants 5V and lots of AMPs (They say 2A).

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Old 28 June 2012, 00:42   #49
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Not sure how many AMPs the PC puts out, but I'd be careful.
The USB standard is pretty lax about voltage (between 4.75 V and 5.25 V I think) and this device wants 5V and lots of AMPs (They say 2A).

desiv
What power suppy do you use and where did you get it.?

I woun't use the usb then..

how about the power from the Amiga,the disk drive power..?
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Old 28 June 2012, 01:19   #50
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Quote:
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Looks nice, but careful..
That blog is telling you to pull power for the GBS from the Amiga video port, which doesn't have the required AMPerage on it for the GBS..

Sounds like a bad idea to me...

desiv
Look at this video,he has his Amiga 2000 using the power from the video port and it working ok..??

[ Show youtube player ]
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Old 28 June 2012, 01:27   #51
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Regarding the 50hz-60hz thing, I feel like I need to throw in my experience with this. My laptop supports 50hz and 60hz display refresh rate, by some twist of fate. I didn't choose it that way, it's just luck.

If I start up winuae on a 60hz screen, it's not bad at all. The scrolling on Turrican 2 looks quite smooth, it certainly is very playable. If I didn't know otherwise I'd say this was fine.
But when I switch the screen to 50hz the difference is apparent, it is silky, silky smooth. 50 frames in 50hz is like a stroking a warm fluffy kitten, and 50 frames in 60hz is like being clawed by a mangy old tom cat.

Anyway I haven't seen one of these gonbes boards in action - maybe it does a really nice job with the conversion and with a bit of scaling blur and standard LCD blur to hide it it's not noticeable.
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Old 28 June 2012, 02:14   #52
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Quote:
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Look at this video,he has his Amiga 2000 using the power from the video port and it working ok..??
I'm not saying it can't work.
I'm saying I wouldn't do it..
Trying to draw too many AMPs over time could (I am thinking, I'm not a serious electronics guy) damage the Amiga (pop something???) and pulling too few might damage the GBS over time.

I got this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280617446384...84.m1497.l2649
.. and it seems to work for me so far.. (maybe not, read below)

desiv
p.s. Just hooked up my A1200 last night and noticed "sparklies" on the screen... I'm assuming it's my really bad solder job. I ordered a real DB23 (I am using one desoldered from an A520), which is on it's way. But I suppose it's possible it's the cheap power supply. I haven't checked the voltage. Not sure, but thought I'd mention it, as I was asked which one I got. If you saw my solder job tho, you'd agree it's the likely culprit.. ;-)
p.p.s. I just moved things around and found another psu that came with a wireless router. Tried it and no sparklies to speak of... So that cheap power supply I got might be too cheap.. I'll do some more testing...

Last edited by desiv; 30 June 2012 at 19:39.
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Old 28 June 2012, 21:31   #53
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I going to use the DB23 from my external disk drive I need to look where the wires are soldered see if there are in the right place,so I have to look for one 5v 2A power for the UK that's US.

Last edited by spanner; 28 June 2012 at 22:49.
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Old 03 July 2012, 21:18   #54
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Got mine today...ORAY..lol..

I have a question:

On mine it says near power plug "(Direct Current) DC 5v-12v" so does that mean it can take a min of 5v and a max of 12v cos if it could only take 5v is would say "DC 5v"..??

Last edited by spanner; 03 July 2012 at 21:23.
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Old 03 July 2012, 21:24   #55
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Got mine today...ORAY..lol..

I have a question:

On mine it says near power plug "(Direct Current) DC 5v~12v" so does that mean it can take a min of 5v and a max of 12v..??


just use a 5 volts dc at 2 amps thats all,dont use 12 volts trust me
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Old 03 July 2012, 22:00   #56
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yes it dose say in manual..

Power DC5V 2A +/- 0.5v
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Old 03 July 2012, 22:21   #57
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I was thinking of put this inside my A1200 what you lot think,there will be a hole where the VGA port is to connect the monitor....??

It could go under the top part of the A1200
I call it the lid,where the fents are..

Last edited by prowler; 04 July 2012 at 00:18. Reason: Back-to-back posts merged.
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Old 03 July 2012, 22:46   #58
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hi i just had a look but it will be tight in there

Last edited by johnim; 03 July 2012 at 22:55.
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Old 04 July 2012, 05:58   #59
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Got it working now on my Amiga,I have used a 4.5V and a 12v PSUs with it and its working fine..

Had it on for over an hour with 12v PSU in and working fine..

But mine is v4.0 and it says 12v on it,v3.0 only say 5v on the board..

Last edited by spanner; 04 July 2012 at 18:38.
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Old 04 July 2012, 19:07   #60
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I'm one of those diehards who keep using CRT monitors in 2012 and I found that, in some cases and maybe with some effort, smooth scrolling is achievable with these monitors, even in 50Hz.
My monitor is a Samsung SyncMaster 753DF.

Here is my 704x576@50Hz mode:



Timings copied from PowerStrip:

PowerStrip timing parameters:
704x576=704,56,72,48,576,10,9,30,27500,3

Generic timing details for 704x576:
HFP=56 HSW=72 HBP=48 kHz=31 VFP=10 VSW=9 VBP=30 Hz=50

VESA detailed timing:
PClk=27500,00 H.Active=704 H.Blank=176 H.Offset=40 HSW=72 V.Active=576 V.Blank=49 V.Offset=10 VSW=9

Linux modeline parameters:
"704x576" 27,500 704 760 832 880 576 586 595 625 -hsync +vsync


WinUAE and Hoxs64 perform brilliantly with this. You just have to tune them up a little (for example, in WinUAE, enable V-Sync and use "no filter"). Just load Giana Sisters (in both emulators) and see how the title screen scrolls.

For the bloody-perfect-smooth scrolling, however, the most important thing is the emulator's ability to slightly alter the overall emulation speed, to synchronize it with the video refresh. Why? If you try to emulate a 50Hz system on a 60Hz display, you will see those annoying repeated frames. There will be many each second. As your display's refresh rate gets closer to 50Hz, those repetitions will be less and less. When it's very close, you might have (for example) 1 repetition each minute (or one lost frame, if the refresh is now lower than 50Hz), because those refresh rates are numbers with a decimal point and it's very difficult to create perfectly matching video modes.

Some of you might have heard about GroovyMame. This version of MAME is thought to be used with arcade monitors and TV sets (which have variable horizontal frequencies around 15KHz). Well, this wonderful software can alter the emulation speed as I explained above, but first, it will try to tweak the video mode itself, after choosing the one that's closest to the game. I use this with my VGA monitor and it works wonders with many of those 60Hz arcade games.
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