English Amiga Board


Go Back   English Amiga Board > Support > support.Hardware

 
 
Thread Tools
Old 16 April 2012, 00:27   #1
Retrofan
Ruler of the Universe

Retrofan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lanzarote/Spain
Posts: 6,068
A1200 1D1 Joystick problem

Hi:
I've just bought a 1D1 A1200 motherboard. I don't have it here to take any photo and I'll have to wait a week or so for that.

Well, it has been very cheap because the seller has told me that "... there seems to be a problem with the joystick port it goes up down and left but not right otherwise everything else works ok ".

I just would like to know where should I begin to search. By now I'm thinking in cleaning the joystick pins with sandpaper.

For what I've read it can be a faulty Cia chip. How do I determine it?
Retrofan is offline  
Old 16 April 2012, 00:35   #2
s2325
Zone Friend

s2325's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Gargore
Age: 39
Posts: 17,789
How about broken joystick, not port?
s2325 is offline  
Old 16 April 2012, 00:38   #3
Retrofan
Ruler of the Universe

Retrofan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lanzarote/Spain
Posts: 6,068
I've thought about it too. I wish it was that, but the seller sells a lot of Amiga stuff, so...

Last edited by Retrofan; 16 April 2012 at 02:43.
Retrofan is offline  
Old 16 April 2012, 03:00   #4
kipper2k
Registered User

 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Thunder Bay, Canada
Posts: 3,943
Check pin 4 on the joy port, see if you have continuity to the IC, follow the trace from the connector to the IC, if no continuity, then you have a bad trace/cold solder joint, if its good, the IC could be bad.
kipper2k is offline  
Old 16 April 2012, 10:18   #5
Retrofan
Ruler of the Universe

Retrofan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lanzarote/Spain
Posts: 6,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by kipper2k View Post
Check pin 4 on the joy port, see if you have continuity to the IC, follow the trace from the connector to the IC, if no continuity, then you have a bad trace/cold solder joint, if its good, the IC could be bad.
Thanks a lot. Now I know exactly where to search and what solder joint to look at.

I've found this http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/...ck_Amiga_9_pin to know which is pin 4.

Last edited by Retrofan; 16 April 2012 at 11:19.
Retrofan is offline  
Old 16 April 2012, 13:36   #6
kipper2k
Registered User

 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Thunder Bay, Canada
Posts: 3,943
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrofan View Post
Thanks a lot. Now I know exactly where to search and what solder joint to look at.

I've found this http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/...ck_Amiga_9_pin to know which is pin 4.
Great, I have actually seen the pins inside the connector break at the right angle point of the pin so it could easily be there. If you do need to replace the connector, take your time and don't force it or you will lift a pad. I normally use desolder braid to remove all i can and then apply chip qwik on it to make it simple to remove. You can also use thin cutters to cut the visible pins to make it a little simpler.
kipper2k is offline  
Old 16 April 2012, 15:08   #7
Retrofan
Ruler of the Universe

Retrofan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lanzarote/Spain
Posts: 6,068
If it's at the right angle part of the pin I think I will be able to solder it without extracting the joy port, and Pin 4 is in the accesible part. I will look how the pin is there. Thanks.

Edit: Thinking well, what you say has sense as inserting many times the joystick perhaps can make a pin to break or have a bad solder joint. I will look first better in the joy connector than in the traces.

Last edited by Retrofan; 16 April 2012 at 22:28.
Retrofan is offline  
Old 26 April 2012, 11:05   #8
Retrofan
Ruler of the Universe

Retrofan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lanzarote/Spain
Posts: 6,068
Jeje. I knew I was doing right opening this thread with time.

I've just received it. Just to open the parcel, to look to the back of the board where you told me and...



Doesn't the soldering in pin 4 look a bit "rare"?

Time for soldering.

Edit: Done:


Last edited by Retrofan; 26 April 2012 at 12:11.
Retrofan is offline  
Old 26 April 2012, 20:53   #9
cpiac64
Registered User
cpiac64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Italy
Posts: 907
9876
12345

the square pin is number 1
cpiac64 is offline  
Old 26 April 2012, 23:22   #10
Retrofan
Ruler of the Universe

Retrofan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lanzarote/Spain
Posts: 6,068
You are right. I think I've soldered pin 7. Well, anyway it was looking wrong. I haven't tried it yet, but I'll have to search again.

Edit: HEY! I don't have the cap in R370C, here it has it http://amiga.resource.cx/photos/phot...res=hi&lang=en

I have a broken motherboard for spares, 1D4 I believe. Ah, I've tried it with it's 3.0 kickstarts, using an old Hd I had since I bought my Amiga and using a Hawk ramboard I have since then too, and it was working nice: keyboard, sound, games... but no right movement as said. (Edit: I think I didn't try fire in that game)

Photo (edited):





Edit: Better photo:




BTW: Is there an easy way to try the joystick without playing a game?

Edit: I still think I'm lucky, as although it doesn't have the place to solder it on the left, I can solder a copper wire between the upper cap and the bottom solder point and solder the cap I need in it's place joined to that cable, if you don't tell me no.

Edit again: I think I'll search first for continuity between both points and if it has I'll try to peel the trace where the left part of the cap goes and to solder there a drop, to use it to solder the cap.

Edit: No, it hasn't continuity, but in my "for spares" mb it has... so I'll try to peel it anyway and solder that drop or if not I will use the copper wire.

Edit: I still have some Chipquik to desolder the cap...

Last edited by Retrofan; 28 April 2012 at 11:56.
Retrofan is offline  
Old 27 April 2012, 11:41   #11
Retrofan
Ruler of the Universe

Retrofan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lanzarote/Spain
Posts: 6,068
Ok I've made this joining them with a copper wire:



But still I don't have right in my joystick. It goes left without pressing left.

I've got continuity across the cap and from the upper one to the bottom point.

Edit: If it goes all the time to the left, perhaps isn't right the one that's wrong, but left I'm thinking.

EDIT:
1R0 in the middle of my photo is the way round compared to the image of hardware resource http://amiga.resource.cx/photos/phot...es=hi&lang=en:


Last edited by Retrofan; 27 April 2012 at 14:23.
Retrofan is offline  
Old 27 April 2012, 12:36   #12
FOL
PSPUAE DEV

FOL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Barry / UK
Age: 41
Posts: 5,743
Send a message via MSN to FOL
With Ceramic caps and resistors. It doesnt matter which way round they go.
Only if they are polarised, do you need make sure they are in the correct way around.

I had a problem like that before, it turned out to me a component on the bottom of the board. I also have had one with dry joints causing the array to read the wrong value and cause all sorts of odd movements.

Take a look at the schematics and look every where, where the components are, where they go to, then check all track. You generally cant check caps in circuit, as you could end up reading other parts of the circuit.
FOL is offline  
Old 27 April 2012, 14:09   #13
Retrofan
Ruler of the Universe

Retrofan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lanzarote/Spain
Posts: 6,068
Thanks Fol. Well in fact I've turned it, but it's the same.

BTW: This is completely wrong, isn't it?



The clockport must be on the right, musn't it? If I connect a Delfina there I would fry it like it happened to Gibs.
Retrofan is offline  
Old 27 April 2012, 14:28   #14
fgh
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Norway
Posts: 663
My a600 had a joystick stuck to the left, where the fault was the U34.

There are several threads about joystick stuck up or left problems.
Do all directions work in the mouse port?

Here are some nice troubleshooting tips from Toni Wilen from another thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toni Wilen View Post
You don't swap A1200 CIAs easily. They are surface mounted without sockets. Fortunately CIAs have nothing to do with most joystick or mouse functions.

First check possible broken connections, use multimeter to check connections between port pins and chip pins, check that there are no shorts to either ground or +5v (if one direction is stuck for example). Download schematics from eab file server.

Possible chip faults (A1200 only):

If joystick directions work in mouse port but not in joystick port (or vice versa): U34. Lisa is most likely ok. If both have 100% identical direction problem: U34 or Lisa (but highly unlikely).

If mouse left/joystick fire button does not work: CIA

If mouse second (or third) button does not work (or analog joystick directions): capacitors in POT lines or Paula.
Edit: There are several joystick tester programs on aminet
fgh is offline  
Old 27 April 2012, 14:44   #15
FOL
PSPUAE DEV

FOL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Barry / UK
Age: 41
Posts: 5,743
Send a message via MSN to FOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrofan View Post
The clockport must be on the right, musn't it? If I connect a Delfina there I would fry it like it happened to Gibs.
Correct. You need the pins moved to the right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fgh View Post
My a600 had a joystick stuck to the left, where the fault was the U34.

There are several threads about joystick stuck up or left problems.
Do all directions work in the mouse port?

Here are some nice troubleshooting tips from Toni Wilen from another thread:


Edit: There are several joystick tester programs on aminet
They are good tips, but its not always true. The Amiga has some really stupid faults due to external factors, like cap leakage, corrosion etc etc.
FOL is offline  
Old 27 April 2012, 15:04   #16
Retrofan
Ruler of the Universe

Retrofan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lanzarote/Spain
Posts: 6,068
Thanks both. In fact fgh you've given me very good tips.

The mouse goes perfect. So U34, eh? Edit: Oh, it was to try the joystick in the mouse port... Well, too late...

Well... let's see what I'll do now...




EDIT: Don't know why, but this seems a nice place to solder that piece... humm...



Edit: Well, it looks good:



Now just to try it, but later.

Last edited by Retrofan; 27 April 2012 at 16:15.
Retrofan is offline  
Old 27 April 2012, 19:06   #17
Retrofan
Ruler of the Universe

Retrofan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lanzarote/Spain
Posts: 6,068
Well, to all the interested people.... IT WORKS !!!

Jeje... I've got a fully working 1D1 mb for 20 pounds and I've had a lot of fun repairing it. Thanks to all and to Chipquik in particular .

Now to add the pins to the clockport

Edit: Done.



Thanks Airey36 because you searched that mb for me, you told me the problems and you offered me a good price.

Last edited by Retrofan; 27 April 2012 at 22:53.
Retrofan is offline  
Old 27 April 2012, 23:52   #18
FOL
PSPUAE DEV

FOL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Barry / UK
Age: 41
Posts: 5,743
Send a message via MSN to FOL
You need to cut two pins off the clock port so you can fit the clockport cable on.
Just make sure you cut correct ones.

Also remember the delfina red wire is opposite compared to subway.

http://www.amigakit.co.uk/support/delfina.php
FOL is offline  
Old 28 April 2012, 00:07   #19
Retrofan
Ruler of the Universe

Retrofan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lanzarote/Spain
Posts: 6,068
Ok. I just will desolder them or all of the unnecesary ones.

Edit: And I'm wondering why did they put it on the left, marking clearly Pin 1, that is also printed in the mb. I'm remembering Jens saying "THERE IS NO PIN 1 ON A CLOCKPORT. Numbering starts at 19, ant it ends at 40. Only refer to pictures for correct orientation of the red marker of the clockport cable. Any marker of a "pin 1" on the clockport is plain wrong. The clockport is a *part* of a 40-pin row, and it happens to be the upper half plus two pins. Still, numbers don't change. Only definitions of "where to put the red marker" can change. I use "red marker on 40" and Michael from E3B uses "red marker on 19". These are not to be confused."

In the other 1D1 Mb the clockport pins are on the right, but here, the same revision, are on the left. Now I completely understand Gibs.

Another thing: I left the other pins because I saw this photo http://amiga.resource.cx/photos/phot...es=hi&lang=en: So in that mb you coudn't install the clockport cable either.


Edit: Changed. Now only on the right.



Edit: And just to finish:
Mounting this mb with the Ide Hd (420 Mb), 3.0 kickstarts and the Hawk ramboard has made me wish to mount another Amiga just with this. I'll like to have it like the previous owner had it and sold to me. That was my first A1200, that now has a BPPC and a lot of stuff.

Last edited by Retrofan; 02 June 2012 at 21:42.
Retrofan is offline  
 


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
AMIGA A1200 Joystick Port Problem, Please Help ? Rich M support.Hardware 18 28 August 2014 10:40
Need SMD resistor values (A1200 1D1) 8bitbubsy support.Hardware 1 13 December 2010 08:35
WANTED: A1200 1d1 motherboard Wasagi MarketPlace 2 18 August 2010 20:58
WANTED: 1d1 Amiga 1200 or 1d1 motherboard Wasagi MarketPlace 0 16 August 2010 01:11
FOR SALE: A1200 Desktop (1D1) Plus PSU and Mouse Peter MarketPlace 17 29 July 2010 23:33

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +2. The time now is 18:23.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Page generated in 0.09187 seconds with 12 queries