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Old 26 May 2011, 13:38   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loedown View Post
I have dug around and found one marked as 3138 105 21901

This suggests it's a Philips model, there are no additional markings on the schematic.

It has;
8 pin TTL RGB input ( round )
That's the old style 1084 / CM8833. The schematics may be useful to someone, so why not upload them. This schematic will also come in handy for those who want to add SCART connectors to their dual-din 1084/1084S. (perhaps for hooking up a PS2, Wii etc)

The one Hewitson found for the 1084-P1 is precisely what I'd need, unfortunately the schematics themselves are unreadable.

Thankfully the board is single layer, it wouldn't be awfully difficult to trace where the signal goes and just look at the part number -> component value tables to figure out what needs to be added. I think I'll give this a go once I can muster the energy to dismantle the board out of the chassis..

I took a quick look yesterday but there were so many soldered connections holding things together and I didn't have enough time at my disposal.
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Old 26 May 2011, 14:05   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jope View Post
That's the old style 1084 / CM8833. The schematics may be useful to someone, so why not upload them. This schematic will also come in handy for those who want to add SCART connectors to their dual-din 1084/1084S. (perhaps for hooking up a PS2, Wii etc)

The one Hewitson found for the 1084-P1 is precisely what I'd need, unfortunately the schematics themselves are unreadable.

Thankfully the board is single layer, it wouldn't be awfully difficult to trace where the signal goes and just look at the part number -> component value tables to figure out what needs to be added. I think I'll give this a go once I can muster the energy to dismantle the board out of the chassis..

I took a quick look yesterday but there were so many soldered connections holding things together and I didn't have enough time at my disposal.
Uploaded two manuals to The Zone, maybe useful?
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Old 26 May 2011, 16:46   #23
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Alex,

I took a few pictures from when I replaced the flyback on my CM8833-MkII, probably not much help but they may be of interest if you haven't taken your monitor apart yet:

https://picasaweb.google.com/daleyo/...IResurrection#

The board slides out quite nicely from the lower tray, and theres a handful of connectors to take off

I can confirm the CM11342 chassis number, this gets you the right schematics.

Just for future reference, if you haven't already replaced the flyback, you can get a HR brand spare from CPC/Farnell at a reasonable price. It may be worth buying to keep as a spare for if/when it blows:
http://cpc.farnell.com/hr-diemen/hr7...3?Ntt=TFHR7533

Best of luck with the repair, it's an excellent monitor and well worth fixing - really nice sharp picture.

Cheers
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Old 26 May 2011, 17:16   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d0pefish View Post
I took a few pictures from when I replaced the flyback on my CM8833-MkII, probably not much help but they may be of interest if you haven't taken your monitor apart yet:
Fantastic.

Quote:
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The board slides out quite nicely from the lower tray, and theres a handful of connectors to take off
Relatively easy to take appart and put back together? I'll try and make a step-by-step photo diary when I do it for others and host it on the thalion website.

Thanks again.
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Old 26 May 2011, 17:30   #25
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You're welcome mate

Very, very simple to take apart.

Put the monitor glass-down on a soft surface.

There's four recessed screws on the back side of the monitor; one in each corner, plus a small black screw between the Composite/Audio RCA sockets that gives them some support.

Ignore the row of three screws on the bottom edge for now, they attach the PCB tray to the front half of the monitor.

The entire rear half of the cabinet should then lift up and off pretty easily, there's just one cable that connects the speakers/headphone jack to the board - unplug this and your monitor's open.

Obviously now would be a good idea to discharge the anode under the suction cup, and then you can ease the PCB out of the tray, disconnecting wires as you go.

Feel free to use any of my pictures if they're any use and you'd like to put a guide together!

Cheers!
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Old 26 May 2011, 19:54   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loedown View Post
Uploaded two manuals to The Zone, maybe useful?
Thanks, saved them for future reference.. Not immediately useful to me however. :-)
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Old 27 May 2011, 12:14   #27
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An old trick to use when removing connectors.

Sometimes it's not always obvious where or indeed which way a connector was connected to a board, if you take a fine tipped marker pen and draw a line between the connector plug and the connector socket, it then makes it easy to put it back in the right place and in the right orientation.

@Jope: I tried
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Old 22 June 2011, 06:39   #28
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Hi Guys, I have a very similar problem on my 1084S. Everything was working fine until the flyback blew up couple months ago. I finally managed to replace the flyback last week and when I turned it on, I noticed colors problem in Linear RGB input mode. Note that it works fine in composite mode. So when I turn the monitor on, it seems like only Green makes it. Then after the screen warmed up for about a minute, the Blue kicks in. Red doesn't show up at all. Since I get one more symptom with the blue, I thought it might point to something more precise. Any Idea? Please let me know! Cheers...

the following schematic looks close to what I have http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarlsen/tdsweb/1084P/

And the screen like that but 1084S instead of 1084 http://www.c64-wiki.com/images/thumb...60px-C1084.jpg

Last edited by Graham Humphrey; 22 June 2011 at 09:44. Reason: Back-to-back posts merged
 
Old 22 June 2011, 13:50   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clearchrome View Post
Hi Guys, I have a very similar problem on my 1084S. Everything was working fine until the flyback blew up couple months ago. I finally managed to replace the flyback last week and when I turned it on, I noticed colors problem in Linear RGB input mode. Note that it works fine in composite mode. So when I turn the monitor on, it seems like only Green makes it. Then after the screen warmed up for about a minute, the Blue kicks in. Red doesn't show up at all. Since I get one more symptom with the blue, I thought it might point to something more precise. Any Idea? Please let me know! Cheers...

the following schematic looks close to what I have http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarlsen/tdsweb/1084P/

And the screen like that but 1084S instead of 1084 http://www.c64-wiki.com/images/thumb...60px-C1084.jpg

You need to start checking voltages, that will quickly tell you where the problem lies. If the flyback died there's a fair chance it will have taken out some of the circuitry with it.

IC502 TDA 3505 pins 12, 13, 14 are RGB in from Euro Connector /SCART, check voltages there to begin with when inputting a perfectly white screen. Then follow the voltages through to transistors TS604 - 606.
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Old 24 June 2011, 00:01   #30
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Also check/replace the 3 transistors + associated resistors in the tube neck board. That's a common problem and the fail may be caused by a high tension peak when the flyback died.
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Old 24 June 2011, 07:59   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loedown View Post
Ok, after a bit of digging and trying to decipher Philips SHITFUL numbering system, it seems the CM8833-II is also known as CM11342/05G

I have dumped the full service manual in The Zone, same system applies, check the other two inputs and determine where the signal goes awry. You can do some resistance checks with the power off which may show up a fault or if that shows nothing you will have to do it with power on.
Hello all. Can someone re-up the service manual of the 8833-II to the zone please.
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Old 24 June 2011, 14:48   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clearchrome View Post
Hi Guys, I have a very similar problem on my 1084S. Everything was working fine until the flyback blew up couple months ago. I finally managed to replace the flyback last week and when I turned it on, I noticed colors problem in Linear RGB input mode. Note that it works fine in composite mode. So when I turn the monitor on, it seems like only Green makes it. Then after the screen warmed up for about a minute, the Blue kicks in. Red doesn't show up at all. Since I get one more symptom with the blue, I thought it might point to something more precise. Any Idea? Please let me know! Cheers...

the following schematic looks close to what I have http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarlsen/tdsweb/1084P/

And the screen like that but 1084S instead of 1084 http://www.c64-wiki.com/images/thumb...60px-C1084.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by rkauer View Post
Also check/replace the 3 transistors + associated resistors in the tube neck board. That's a common problem and the fail may be caused by a high tension peak when the flyback died.
If the colours are working fine on one input and not on the other why would the three RGB drive transistors have gone faulty, I know the transistors fail but please read the whole thing before inserting this generic reply.
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Old 24 June 2011, 14:50   #33
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Done, but if you'd googled for CM11342 you'd have found it.
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Old 24 June 2011, 16:41   #34
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Done, but if you'd googled for CM11342 you'd have found it.
Thanx. I did and aparently I am blind yawn
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Old 24 July 2011, 02:29   #35
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this monitor

here is the correct schematics etc


hope its not too big

i fixed the one i got by using freezer spray
had a rolling frame after a few seconds power
was the vertical frame generation ic {not the frame driver!!!}


one thing i noticed is
you must power on the amiga before the montior

or face no rgb and a white screen

maybe this is part of the fault
i am still looking at this monitor

however here is the details

feking 10 euros anywhere else!!

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=RY7GJ782

if it disapears and you need it
email me @ vsmlibs@talktalk.net


this schematic and manual are for the cm 8833 MK2 or the CM11342/05G philips

models covered =
service information
-----------------------
CM11342/00G/05G/10G/20G/75T
CM11362/00T/05T/10T

diagram service manual
---------------------------
CM11342/00G/05G/10G/20G/75G
CM11362/00T/05T/10T

or several others with different inputs

ok i notice power on issues perhaps is the rgb logic

another ic to blame

so.. what ill do tomorrow is use 1khz signal on each rgb input
to flash to the colour

i tried r g and b input and notice only the G and B work no red

so its further on than the socket

off to bed will be one of the tda ic's

or more over ill replace ever electrolytic capcaitor first as usual
then test again

more tomorrow

Last edited by SIMBO; 24 July 2011 at 03:05.
 
Old 24 July 2011, 09:51   #36
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i tried r g and b input and notice only the G and B work no red
Interesting, that is the same fault I had. Curious to know if you find an easy implemented solution.
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Old 14 August 2012, 00:18   #37
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Time to revive an old thread!!

Had a slight issue with my 8833 MKII, namely mono sound! Took the cover off and noticed the Composite/Audio L/R inputs have come adrift of the PCB and some of the tracks have broke as a result Is there anyway to repair the tracks or is it a case of following the track and wiring the legs of the inputs directly to the first solder joint? Have resoldered all the joints that were loose (a dab of fluxite here and there) and found three had broken tracks, one I managed to bridge with solder to a nearby joint on the same track, another track was 'half broke' but seemed solid when soldered back and the other was completely broke, this was the composite which I don't use! Does this 'fix' sound (no pun) ok?

Also, on the PCB there is a wire loose that looks to be from J21 near an IC, used one of the photos from d0pefish:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m...7/CIMG0171.JPG

Look at the bottom, to the left of the big blue capacitor, and you'll see J21 near R3324, that's the wire that has come loose. Now, I think this wire has always been loose as I've never taken the monitor apart until today, so could anyone say what it's for and should it be soldered back? Until the sound issue I've had no other problem with the monitor! Have now put it back together and sound is working fine in stereo on all the games I just tested, so should I leave it at that and be thankful it still works?

Also, that was the first time EVER I'd taken any type of CRT monitor/TV apart and was having the willys in case I touched something and blew myself or the monitor up, is there any 'procedure' to follow *IF* I ever open it up again, apart from unplug the cooking thing from the mains
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Old 14 August 2012, 00:40   #38
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could someone reup the manual? I haven't switched on my CM8833mk2 for years but I do remember there was some issue that the front channel switch had to be pushed slightly to display the channel, so had to use tape to slightly push onto the button to make it work.

In general, the mono sound issue could be also because the headphones input on the left side was somewhat forcefully bent on the inside. I believe I had this too one but fixed since. But seems in your case the RCA ones took a battering...
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Old 14 August 2012, 01:44   #39
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A slight battering yes, that and the age of the thing. Don't know how long I've had this but it's been solid for years and finally hiccuped a few days ago!!

Zoned the service manual for you, think its the right one and I completely forgot I'd got this.
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Old 14 August 2012, 02:13   #40
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Thanks Barry!
will be an interesting read, and I just powered on my CM8833mk2 this eve (connected to a VCR) and it seems to work just file, phew
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