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Old 09 June 2012, 18:30   #1441
golem
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnim View Post
so you are saying it was your blizzard and r127 bridged with fblit ?

i have used a blizzard 1230mkiv and 1260 and still have problems will do r127 mod and use fblit later and see
I have 1260 and have done the e127r bridge and use fblit. After an hour or two I still have glitches in Highgfx. I haven't done the other mods yet

Last edited by golem; 09 June 2012 at 18:37.
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Old 09 June 2012, 23:06   #1442
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I don't get glitches with Superplus, but sometimes a black screen when moving icons, but I have the bars in the screen using HighGfx after a short time.

Shall I believe that I won't have problems with the reflash when it will be available, or must I try to fix my 2B board?

Edit: And to me it seems Lisa getting hot. Shall I start desoldering caps or do I try with a faster and noisy fan?

About Gib's Fix, I suposse that the ones that did the ACA1230/56 tried the Indi MKII there in first place.

Last edited by Retrofan; 09 June 2012 at 23:36.
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Old 09 June 2012, 23:36   #1443
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lolof & golem

Do you have an Commodore or an ATX PSU ?
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Old 09 June 2012, 23:48   #1444
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With all respects but...

blähblähblähbläh but... fix the motherboard, fix the blizzard 1260, change psu...?
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Old 10 June 2012, 00:01   #1445
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@gibs

Commodore 4,5A.... Maybe this make a difference.
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Old 10 June 2012, 00:22   #1446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amigarlz View Post
With all respects but...

blähblähblähbläh but... fix the motherboard, fix the blizzard 1260, change psu...?
That's not fair. Nobody knows for sure what's causing the display glitches yet.
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Old 10 June 2012, 00:32   #1447
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Originally Posted by amigarlz View Post
With all respects but...

blähblähblähbläh but... fix the motherboard, fix the blizzard 1260, change psu...?
Blahblahblah
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Old 10 June 2012, 00:33   #1448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibs View Post
lolof & golem

Do you have an Commodore or an ATX PSU ?
I have a switching Apower PSU as made by mechy. I think these are more powerful than your bog standard 1200 PSU. It does get considerably warmer though. I take it you are using ATX?

Last edited by golem; 10 June 2012 at 00:46.
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Old 10 June 2012, 01:40   #1449
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I haven't opened the miggy again yet, but about the Timing fixes (http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/am..._mobo_fix.html) and the other posted here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schoenfeld View Post
Best place on the A1200 motherboard is the top left corner of the unused FPU socket. There's a via with the CCK signal and a via with VCC very close together. You should ideally use a resistor of 1206 size, so the distance is bridged easier, and it should also be easier to solder.

Other places would be on Paula or on the underside of the board on E127R, but this one allows the mod without having to remove the board from it's shield.

Jens
It seems I'll need a 1k resistor for this and remove E123C, E125C and change R118 to 220R in my C=, 2B mobo.

I do have an A1200 mb (1A) for spares. Do I have there to desolder and use the 1k resistor and the 220R ? Where for example?

If not, any Ebay link, please?

And I'm really a solder-junky, I mean, good soldering but no idea of electronics.
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Old 10 June 2012, 05:21   #1450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golem View Post
I have a switching Apower PSU as made by mechy. I think these are more powerful than your bog standard 1200 PSU.
A bit more then 2x the power from the A1200 brick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrofan View Post
If not, any Ebay link, please?
Take notes, and go visit a local electronics repair shop, or the solder junkies outlet of choise. They should be able to hook you up. Don't cut in to your second Amiga.
B!
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Old 10 June 2012, 06:35   #1451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibs View Post
lolof & golem

Do you have an Commodore or an ATX PSU ?
I'm using an atx adapted psu as well. From Micro R+D (the Bigfoot)

You may be on to something here. When I had an 030 on my a1200 with the CBM 4.5 a a500 psu and I hooked up my supergen sx I got glitches now that I recall...food for thought.
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Old 10 June 2012, 10:32   #1452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrofan View Post
.

I do have an A1200 mb (1A) for spares. Do I have there to desolder and use the 1k resistor and the 220R ? Where for example?

If not, any Ebay link, please?

And I'm really a solder-junky, I mean, good soldering but no idea of electronics.
I took the 1k resistor from an A600 motherboard. It's written 102 on the resistor. Have a look at the schematics. They are under the board. Something like R85x If my memory is good.

So you prefer to run HighGfx ?

Last edited by gibs; 10 June 2012 at 10:39.
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Old 10 June 2012, 11:14   #1453
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It's not only that. There's a problem I have since I installed the ACA and the Fast Ata time ago. Whatever Cf Hd I install here, after not much time (some days) I get it telling some problem of wrong blockid. I've tried several Cf Hd's and formatted several times and changed the Ide cable. I wonder if it can be a Timing fix problem too. Perhaps it's another thing, but now I want to try it.
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Old 10 June 2012, 12:34   #1454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrofan View Post
It's not only that. There's a problem I have since I installed the ACA and the Fast Ata time ago. Whatever Cf Hd I install here, after not much time (some days) I get it telling some problem of wrong blockid. I've tried several Cf Hd's and formatted several times and changed the Ide cable. I wonder if it can be a Timing fix problem too. Perhaps it's another thing, but now I want to try it.
It could be, had lots of boards where they dont boot CF HDD. Put CF on another board it will work, add a ram expansion to the none booting board, it then works.

If apply timing fixes, generally solved that problem, but not all the time as the A1200 board is evil when it comes to timing issues.
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Old 10 June 2012, 14:41   #1455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FOL View Post
It could be, had lots of boards where they dont boot CF HDD. Put CF on another board it will work, add a ram expansion to the none booting board, it then works.

If apply timing fixes, generally solved that problem, but not all the time as the A1200 board is evil when it comes to timing issues.
FOL,

As expert, maybe you can give the points to check with the oscilloscope as it seems that many users have timing fix problems...
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Old 10 June 2012, 15:02   #1456
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Thanks Fol. I've desoldered E125C and E123C. Now i've bought this (470R) http://www.ebay.es/itm/290549067473?...84.m1439.l2649 ... ¿The colors aren't the same??
for this (last fix for 2B boards in Ian's web http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/am..._mobo_fix.html)


(Ian's photo). I think I've bought the right one. Edit: No, I've bought a metal film one too http://www.ebay.es/itm/270967459679?...84.m1439.l2649
Then I have to change R118 to 220R. Are these ok? http://www.ebay.es/itm/100-x-SMD-SMT...item231d9c540a Although they aren't like the one he uses. I don't know, there are carbon ones, metal ones... No idea. I've seen these too http://www.ebay.es/itm/100-pcs-1-4W-...item3a70b7825d. Edit: It seems metal film resistors are better than carbon ones.
And I'll try with that, If doesn't work I'll try the 1k resistor (that I don't see in Ian's fix). Is this ok? http://www.ebay.es/itm/1206-SMD-resi...item4845866516

Last edited by Retrofan; 11 June 2012 at 02:29.
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Old 10 June 2012, 15:06   #1457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibs View Post
FOL,

As expert, maybe you can give the points to check with the oscilloscope as it seems that many users have timing fix problems...
Never said I was an expert, just very good at soldering and working with microscopic conponents (grains of sand as we used to call them).
I have'nt had chance to actually sit down and do anything with an oscilloscope.

Plus as already pointed out, virtually every board is different, It would be a long and time consuming process.

I know Jens has spent countless hours, days, months, tracking down such issues. Another problem is you would have to get atleast 5x of each rev, to test which would also pose a problem.

Another thing that I have found that effects timing is the kickstarts, 3.0 seems to work with stuff better than 3.1.

@Retrofan

Those parts should work fine you have bought.

Also, be careful when adding the resistor in the picture as if I recall, there are two points right next to each other.
I had to trace them through to confirm I had correct point, Ian gives location of where the track goes to, so its easy to trace it out.

Another point is, I have found those timing fixes dont always work. Due to every board being different.
It can sometimes make things worse.

Last edited by FOL; 10 June 2012 at 15:23.
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Old 10 June 2012, 15:41   #1458
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@FOL

On my REV 1.A I have a 3.1 Kickstart while I have a 3.0 on my 1D4.
There are both working great with my Blizzard 1260 + Indivision AGA MKII + Same CF.

Actually I use the 3.0 on my Rev 1.A.
So yesterday when I have played more than 30 minutes of MP3 in 1024x768, it was with the Kickstart 3.0

Just to share the info.

If I had some time, I would put the oscilloscope at each Resistor/Capacitor mentioned by Jens to see what the signal looks like on working board and compare with a non-working one.

Last edited by gibs; 10 June 2012 at 15:48.
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Old 10 June 2012, 15:45   #1459
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To compare with others here are some pictures of the corruption I am seeing after an hour. I tried with Goliath type PSU but no dice.
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Old 10 June 2012, 17:12   #1460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibs View Post
@FOL

If I had some time, I would put the oscilloscope at each Resistor/Capacitor mentioned by Jens to see what the signal looks like on working board and compare with a non-working one.
That may help, but it would be alot of trial an error and that would have to be done on a mass of boards with same rev and the same on other revs.

You would need to get signals with it working, then remove your blizzard then alter components to hopefully match the signals when it works with blizzard.

I suppose you could swap some of the components for variable resistors / caps, to help find the perfect value. Again trial and error.

As I said though, a very time intensive process.
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