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Old 13 May 2012, 22:02   #1081
Retrofan
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I didn't have much time today, and I only have a pair of sockets. The others I've got with long pins are square ones (very thick).
I've opened the parcel with the Indi and I think I don't need more than a pair of sockets to fit the Fast Ata with it.

I've got one sanded around 1mm and the other untouched, so I've got some angle. I've twisted the pins of the Fast Ata under it and I've put some tape.

The ground cable will be connected in the other hole of the Indi.

Hope to have time to try it, but I think this has to work:



Have to try the Indi connector (edit: I can't this way) or the Kipper2k's one.

Edit: The problem here is that the original connector is thick as a brick (10mm), and I'll only have this way around 3mm between both boards. How thick is your connector kipper2k? You said it was thinner. Weren't you going to show some photos? And I'm bad with inches. 7,46mm in total, so 3,73mm each side? Minus the board height to know the room there?.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kipper2k View Post
i just received my 20 pin edge card connectors and i believe i can mod them so the cable does not add to the height of the connector which should reduce the height by about 0.075 - 0.100" (inch) which would be good for those people with the sata ATA. I'll show a pic later

Last edited by Retrofan; 15 May 2012 at 02:32.
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Old 14 May 2012, 04:33   #1082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schoenfeld View Post
You can fix that by installing a 1k resistor (size 0805) on position R24 of the flickerfixer. If you don't want to solder on the flickerfixer, you can add a pullup-resistor on the CCK signal at pretty much any position of the mainboard.

Jens
Jens.

is this the same fix I did to my A1200? I shorted r127 (i think) to stop strange stuff in the multiscan modes.

thanks


also if anyone is interested ZONED my HAM8 HD720 test pictures. Some of them look really impressive on the EXCELLENT Indivision AGA MK2...

Last edited by bbond007; 14 May 2012 at 07:15.
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Old 14 May 2012, 12:11   #1083
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Originally Posted by bbond007 View Post
I shorted r127 (i think) to stop strange stuff in the multiscan modes.
I can't confirm this without a precise description and maybe a photo of what you've done.

Jens
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Old 14 May 2012, 14:07   #1084
magnetic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbond007 View Post

also if anyone is interested ZONED my HAM8 HD720 test pictures. Some of them look really impressive on the EXCELLENT Indivision AGA MK2...
Cool thanks for the pics.. are you able to use NTSC modes?
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Old 14 May 2012, 14:22   #1085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratte View Post
@xtreme:
Search on www.a1k.org they are available for dl.
Thanks !
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Old 14 May 2012, 15:28   #1086
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I just tested the individed 1200 mk2, it seems to work.

but in the screen modes tested (in game PAL / 320x256 in WB)

I can see vertical stripes (dark and light) and a part of the image on the right is missing. Even if I move up the image with the option menu of the monitor

Have you any idea?

Last edited by CFOU!; 14 May 2012 at 18:17.
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Old 14 May 2012, 16:04   #1087
bbond007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schoenfeld View Post
I can't confirm this without a precise description and maybe a photo of what you've done.

Jens
this is the fix i did, and it worked.

it was very easy to do with my basic soldering skills.

http://aminet.net/package/docs/hard/flickerfix

I have converted the included picture

thanks
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Last edited by bbond007; 14 May 2012 at 16:18.
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Old 14 May 2012, 16:14   #1088
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I added a fan that sucks air from the ventilation lines at the top of the Amiga and blows it under the MKII and creates a bit more airflow. So with the resistor fix, the heatsink (Alice) and the fan (running on the power output for the floppy, as I am using an external HxC emulator), the machine is able to run super high-res, but I am still getting some occasional flickering in very small regions of the screen if I run long enough. The flickering is completely gone in high-res though.

The fan is currently attached to the metal shielding with a strong adhesive (see image).
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Old 14 May 2012, 16:37   #1089
bbond007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetic View Post
Cool thanks for the pics.. are you able to use NTSC modes?
yeah, NTSC modes work fine...
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Old 14 May 2012, 18:16   #1090
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i am just received indivision aga and it seems some configuration modifications are needed with my monitor.

i don't found configuration tool on individual computer's support page.

is a date known for release?
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Old 14 May 2012, 18:32   #1091
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Originally Posted by CFOU! View Post
is a date known for release?
Yes...













"Not yet" is the best known date.
There is also the "When it's ready" date.
Those two should answer your question.
B!

Edit
With the resent pictures of how people put their stuff together i realized that i did it wrong. My install looks like this:

Image seams to have gone missing. Must have been something i did to get the image in the text, rather then at the bottom of the post. So i stuck it back in, at the bottom of the post... I know, it sucks, but live with it... I have to. ;- )
/Edit
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Old 14 May 2012, 18:52   #1092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr B View Post
With the resent pictures of how people put their stuff together i realized that i did it wrong. My install looks like this:
Two possible sources of a short:

1. the RF shield might touch the pins of the socket
2. the cable-shoe might cause a short with the capacitor right under it

To resolve the first, please refer to the manual - it recommends to cut out parts of the shield.

To resolve the second, please refer to the manual - it recommends to pay close attention not to cause a short with nearby components.

Jens
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Old 14 May 2012, 19:05   #1093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr B View Post
Yes...

"Not yet" is the best known date.
There is also the "When it's ready" date.
Those two should answer your question.
B!
/Edit
thanx
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Old 14 May 2012, 19:12   #1094
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Sorry, i should have clarifyed. It works perfectly fine. I have the intention to add a thermal transfer pad between the card, and the RF shield, but for now it's good as is. Doesn't work on my TV, regardless of if i use the VGA, or HDMI/DVI input. However, works perfectly on a VGA monitor. So, me, like so many, is set up to wait for some configuration tools. No pressure.
;- )

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schoenfeld View Post
1. the RF shield might touch the pins of the socket
There is at least 1,5mm clearance anywhere over the card.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schoenfeld View Post
2. the cable-shoe might cause a short with the capacitor right under it
Yeah, that was a tight fit. Not so much due to possible short-circuits, the feather washer (? is that the right name) but the connector on the other end had the plastic further towards the connection point, and it was at risk of breaking the capacitor lose, or possibly crush it. Of course, i didn't think to look on the "back" until after i had it pushed on the board, and i didn't want to pull it of again, risking to make it sit worse later on. Perhaps i could have attached it neater there, and not have had to cut to make it fit. But this wasn't bad, really. You built good.
B!
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Old 14 May 2012, 20:41   #1095
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i have finally test indivision mk2 with LCD (yiama) and CRT (huyndai) with vga connector and it works fine now in all mode

i will test in DVI

thank's Jens for this great product
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Old 14 May 2012, 21:13   #1096
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by CFOU! View Post
i have finally test indivision mk2 with LCD (yiama) and CRT (huyndai) with vga connector and it works fine now in all mode

i will test in DVI

thank's Jens for this great product
now i tested in DVI and all screen modes works but on iiyama monitor i have all times following message (photo this evening) :
Attention
signal frequency is out of range
H: 41.6 khz V: 65.3Hz
please change
singal timing
color and image are better quality with DVI but i can't use it because even if all screen modes are goodly displayed, the message appears alltimes in the center of screen and it can't be removed!

Would i correct it in the futur with config tool?

Last edited by CFOU!; 15 May 2012 at 11:28.
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Old 14 May 2012, 21:57   #1097
Schoenfeld
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Originally Posted by Mr B View Post
Yeah, that was a tight fit. Not so much due to possible short-circuits, the feather washer (? is that the right name)
The German word would be Fächerscheibe. Maybe you can find a good translation with the DIN, which is 6798.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr B View Post
but the connector on the other end had the plastic further towards the connection point, and it was at risk of breaking the capacitor lose, or possibly crush it.
Since there's no moving parts, it should be safe to keep it that way. Should you get the chance, it might be a good idea to increase the distance between cable-shoe and capacitor.

CFOU,
you'll be able to make all the required adjustments with the config tool. I know it's hard waiting, but I won't waste any more time with test-cores, as these just delay development of the component that you *really* need. Sidenote: iiyama doesn't always display that message; it depends on the model. My favourite is my iiyama MA203DT, which syncs to just about any frequency between 40Hz and 170Hz. The perfect testbench for cores that are way out of range ;-)

Jens
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Old 14 May 2012, 22:23   #1098
Mr B
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Originally Posted by Schoenfeld View Post
The German word would be Fächerscheibe. Maybe you can find a good translation with the DIN, which is 6798.
Fan shaped / serrated washer, well, at least you knew which one i meant. Thanks. Who knows i might remember it until the next time i need to use the name...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schoenfeld View Post
Since there's no moving parts, it should be safe to keep it that way. Should you get the chance, it might be a good idea to increase the distance between cable-shoe and capacitor.
I decided it was safe to leave it this way, there is 1+mm clearance from the top of the capacitor to the cable shoe metal ring part, and the plastic crimped part has about half a mm clearance to the side of the capacitor. Admittedly, it's a winged guesstimate, i got nothing i want to use to take down a real measure, start prying with some metal blades to find the size of the gap seams insane. I guess i got lucky, as i said, the other cable shoe had the plastic end up on top of the capacitor, so all i needed to do was swap end, and i got away with it.

As i said, i intend to put a thermal transfer pad on top of the whole thing, justifying it with the notion that it should help transfer whatever heat the indivision can suck up to the RF shield, and let it act as a low performance convection heatsink. Aside from the actual heat transfer being pretty crippled seeing as all the heat it can transfer has to pass through the legs of Lisa, (so the usefulness of the pad might be debatable) there shouldn't be any other concerns with it, should there? (The pad is, of course, not electro-conductive.) I'm hoping the pad will help keeping the heat down, so i wont need to add a fan hole, and mountpoints, to my RF shield. At this rate, it's just wishfull thinking, i have yet to do any tests even showing heat is an issue, so it's just a precaution.
B!
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Old 14 May 2012, 22:32   #1099
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i couldn't help but notice the nice large(ish) four holes going through the PLCC. You can see the chip it goes over through them. i wonder if there would be enough air leakage around the plcc pins and Lisa for air to get sucked up and out through those 4 holes. placing a fan on the pcb over the holes and sealing around it with hot glue to make sure any air pulled out has come across the chip instead of just being bounced/buffeted around the cavity from the top.

a more risky and destructive method would be to remove the board and plcc plastic between the 4 holes and stick a heatsink on Lisa
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Old 14 May 2012, 22:37   #1100
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an update from ebay seller about

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...:X:RTQ:GB:1123

The pins are square and they do not fit each other.

so a no go again for fastata
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