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Old 04 May 2012, 12:36   #801
roy bates
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sorry i ment the idc header in the indi.
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Old 04 May 2012, 12:39   #802
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sorry i ment the idc header in the indi.
so did i
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Old 04 May 2012, 12:43   #803
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i wonder if its worth looking for a single rom riser with slightley longer pins,im sure there are some about.

or ones with longer pins that can be cut to size for a better fit.
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Old 04 May 2012, 12:57   #804
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i wonder if its worth looking for a single rom riser with slightley longer pins,im sure there are some about.

or ones with longer pins that can be cut to size for a better fit.
These?

http://www.ebay.es/itm/1Pcs-High-Qua...item2a0c829378
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Old 04 May 2012, 12:57   #805
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i wonder if its worth looking for a single rom riser with slightley longer pins,im sure there are some about.

or ones with longer pins that can be cut to size for a better fit.
if you find any drop a link in here so i can get them ordered

i'm wondering how much room there is behind the metal backplate of the keyboard before the roms hit whatevers behind it.

would be helpful if the fellow amigan that did cut a hole there could shed some light on it
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Old 04 May 2012, 12:59   #806
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simulatanious post

they're perfect, but wow, not cheap!

need to find a uk supplier :P
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Old 04 May 2012, 13:12   #807
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thats the ones,the only problem is the ends of them are tapered,when you cut them they wont easely plut into the rom socket after.

it'll be alot of cutting and filing them to make them fit.



oops,need more coffee.there perfect i dident look hard enough at the ends,lol
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Old 04 May 2012, 13:14   #808
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true. it may be easier just to sand down the tops of the two sockets i have by about half a millimeter each.
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Old 04 May 2012, 13:22   #809
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true. it may be easier just to sand down the tops of the two sockets i have by about half a millimeter each.
I was going to tell the same. You sand down the upper part of two of them, and in the other two you cut (not sure if you can file without breaking them) their pins the height you want to decrease (that you've sanded). Then you can solder all the pins between them, although perhaps isn't necessary.

But we have to know the height it has to have.

Last edited by Retrofan; 04 May 2012 at 14:08.
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Old 04 May 2012, 13:24   #810
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heres one,


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turned-Pin...item1c25ee3f23





obviusly the picture isent the product.



i think the problem with filling down the tops of the sockets is this,the top of the pins push into the plastic on the socket from above in a chamfer so if you file it down it wont fit right again(they might come apart)

Last edited by roy bates; 04 May 2012 at 13:29.
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Old 04 May 2012, 13:28   #811
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thanks guys.

ok right now i'm sat infront of the TV very carefully breaking off the pins of the ATA with my finest pair of needlenose pliars. this could take a while :P

once i know for sure without any limitation, the minimum height off the motherboard we need the ata to be without shorting on the indi, i'll come back and tell all
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Old 04 May 2012, 13:40   #812
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Originally Posted by roy bates View Post
i think the problem with filling down the tops of the sockets is this,the top of the pins push into the plastic on the socket from above in a chamfer so if you file it down it wont fit right again(they might come apart)
Yep, then you solder them.
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Old 04 May 2012, 14:15   #813
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@fitzsteve you got a manual??? i didn't
I have just uploaded the manuals and the flashtool to www.icomp.de. Choose your language, click on products, then on Amiga/Retro, then on the Indivision AGA MK2 product site (which is not yet a product site).

The core in that archive is the one that all units have been delivered with. The flashtool shows a hardware status, CPLD version and core version, where the latter is currently garbage (will be fixed with one of the next releases).

At this point, you can hardly do anything with this tool, because there is only one core. It lets you flash and backup a config, but that doesn't have any effect on the flickerfixer's behaviour.

Jens
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Old 04 May 2012, 14:26   #814
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Thanks Jens, at least those of us that haven't been able to get a picture, can use that tool to check the hardware is functional.
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Old 04 May 2012, 14:35   #815
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pins removed. nothing damaged either



refitted it and even now it still rests on the indi IDC.

I dont think i can get it any closer without problems, but it's a start because it means i can lower it at the rom socket side without bending the ata too much.
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Old 04 May 2012, 14:49   #816
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I just had an idea

while tinkering with the position of the ata with only one socket set and the IDC removed i noticed that if i put it in the rom sockets at an angle, it'd fit perfectly!

the idea being the rom socket legs get incrementally longer as you go toward the back of the unit. it'd sit at about half the angle of the keyboard. so from the height of one rom socket, to two on the back row!

this might mean using those long legged sockets, and some careful leg bending to get it to fit snugly, and of course the use of a cable tie to secure it.

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Old 04 May 2012, 15:00   #817
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Yes a custom made rom riser about a 30 degree angle would be great
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Old 04 May 2012, 15:06   #818
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IT WORKS!!!!

YES!

uploading pics now
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Old 04 May 2012, 15:10   #819
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pics as promised.

the ata alreasy has a pair of rom sockets mounted to it... all i did was to put a single strips of sockets on the rear side to demonstrate my thoughts.

as you can see, it now clears the indi IDC with room to spare!

better yet, it no longer touches the back side of the keyboard














some pins may still need to be bent/removed to clear the corner of the IDC but as i've removed them now i cant test! LOL

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Old 04 May 2012, 15:53   #820
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I find it ok, although the first line of pins of the second riser gets a bit too separated in your first photo.

I'm still not opening my miggy, but I've sanded one of the risers that I've got in the upper part till the plastic that crosses the risers is (1mm lower).

You could think that now if you try to insert a pin there it won't get all the way into, but it does and keeps firmly there.

What do I get with this? If I put that riser under the fast ata in the lower part of the keyboard and another (not sanded) in the other socket, the second one will have it's pins lower than the first, so reaching better to the kickstart socket.

Last edited by Retrofan; 04 May 2012 at 16:24.
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