My A1200D Project

[fitzsteve]

Originally Posted by phipscube

Hehe! Cheers Cosmic mate *CROAK* Fwoof flipping ek, scuse me!

I think its too late for Mr Fitz now, he's already taken the plunge with a soldering iron.. no looking back now! I'm looking forward to seeing what he gets up to

Lol, no evil plans for me on that one just yet. Have a busted IDEFix Express here that needs mending but I think it'll be too complicated for me and as yet don't know the problem with it.

[Zetr0]

@This Thread

In a word - Awesome


in a motivational poster


both apt and funny =)


Some great work and development Phipsy, a true pleasure and inspiration to read!

[phipscube]

Steve, the switch you did for your A600 was a perfect start, The IDE Fix might be a bit out there for now, but one day i'm sure you'll be fixing it yourself, and believe me, your satisfaction level will be through the roof mate

Zeetz! HAHAHAHAHA! Cheers mate, it took me a few seconds to click, then I was like LOLLZ! Great stuff, and glad your enjoying the show

[Retrofan]

So, Phipscube what you've done with the audio could be improved with "BetterPaula"?


Or what do you think?

[phipscube]

@retrofan,

I like the native audio how it is, rough and nasty with its crazy panning!

[NovaCoder]

Hiya,

Does the Delfina output native audio by default or do you have to feed it in through the on-board inputs?

[mfilos]

Originally Posted by NovaCoder

Hiya,

Does the Delfina output native audio by default or do you have to feed it in through the on-board inputs?

It does, but only if you load the software.
That's why Phipscube made the Mixer for Native+Delfina (to have it enabled from startup

[NovaCoder]

ok cool, I'll take the lazy option then (my mod skills are up to it anyway!)

[phipscube]

Hiya Novacoder, yeah its like Marios said, and the fact that i'm super anal and wanted to be able to cold boot floppy games and have audio from paula

Once the Delfina Mixer is loaded into memory you can soft boot and paula audio is passed thru so its possible to then load an old floppy game and have sound. The mod I made is really not that necessary but I like a good excuse to cram more chit in there

[phipscube]

Here's an update on what i've been doing here

I added a +5V wire to the Subway, this has helped with randomness at boot up (its soldered to "Pin 2") : -






I've made a little circuit that controls my top case fans. They aren't overly loud, but I thought it was unecessary for them to be running full pelt. This little board uses Pulse width modulation to keep the voltage level at 12V, but pulses slower of faster (adjustable with a pot), the effect of this is a quieter fan that moves more efficiently than simply dropping off the voltage. I made it based on this information: -

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...67&postcount=2

Here's a pic!









I replaced the pot with a Thermistor, and put the thermistor on the BV heatsink.



Now the fans start up very quiet, once the BV heats up it drops the resistance on the thermistor hence the fans have quicker pulses sent to them to increase airflow. It still stays very quiet as this is the effect of PWM. The only downside of it is that when the room is very quiet you will notice a feint "ticking" noise.

I'm currently planning to make a 5V version for the BPPC fan (I've also got a less noisy replacement fan on its way).


I've added some jacks for Mic and Aux input to Delfina! :-














Thats it for now folks!

[mfilos]

My friend this is just...

[Retrofan]

Well, what can I say... Great! But... how is it working... can you show a (long) video?

In all that you've done I only find a veery small error with the distance between the USB connectors... you're The Guide at least for me

[phipscube]

Hi Retrofan

Its working great! The only niggles now are that from a cold boot the DVD drive resets ok, but when the system reboots for loading OS 3.9 Rom the DVD drive gets caught up and doesn't reset until half way through the booting process, then IDEfix doesn't find it and intuition needs to reset the screen. If I just do the three finger salute before the Indivision screen vanishes for the second time I can get the DVD drive to reset properly. I remember I had this problem along time ago with a DVD drive on my miggy in the 90's and I think if I look around I can find some software that will help this. Otherwise i'm rolling my own 3.9 Roms so once they are in I wont have that problem anymore.

I also have the heat issue, but thats mainly due to my own stubborness. I wanted to run the system with the small rubber feet. I can't do that really, I know this, so i'm going to raise her up a bit on feet. The system still runs great for over an hour, but at that point the grill underneath is rather hot.

I did have lots of random problems with USB devices and the Delfina once I had the BVision working, but that seems to have been cured by adding +5V jump wires to each of the Subway and Delfina. And yeah, I never thought about the USB space until it was too late I also had issues with the Clockport expander being fixed rigidly into place. That clockport is ultra sensitive. Since putting the expander on a small ribbon its great!

Software wise the system is a bit of a mess as i'm really trying to get hardware going first. Once I get onto Software I want to be sure the hardware is ok you see.

Soon I will recieve a standard looking PSU from Mr Fitz. I want to put the APower inside an original A1200 (or A600 in this case) Brick so it looks authentic Its running quite hot too after about an hour. Initially its really only getting warm, but it suddenly becomes hot and thats not a good sign for long lasting wearability. I may need to put a fan on it too. The APowers casing is lovely and small, but alas, for my system its a little too snug

Apart from the custom ROMS I only really need a better fan on the PPC, some kind of better solution for cooling the 060 and a nice white monitor then I'll be ready to make a nice long video! I also plan to make a video of all the insides and at various angles etc for all the Pr0n freaks

[seuden]

Simply stunning!! Awesome work, I want one!

[fitzsteve]

@Phipscube,

I think if you attached the same fan I have to the grill and even just raised it on slightly bigger feet it'd be ok.

You could even put a manual speed controll on the fan that you can whack up after an hour once it needs the extra cooling.

I've run mine solid and it never gets more than luke warm, even under full PPC/060 load.

I'm thinking to try the 330mhz PPC in the Desktop and see how that copes on smaller feet. Oh and roll the 060 back to 66mhz

I'll let you know how I get on with that, might even be todays project.

Hope the PSU arrives soon, should do post to Denmark is usually quick.

Steve.

[Retrofan]

Originally Posted by phipscube

Soon I will recieve a standard looking PSU from Mr Fitz. I want to put the APower inside an original A1200 (or A600 in this case) Brick so it looks authentic Its running quite hot too after about an hour. Initially its really only getting warm, but it suddenly becomes hot and thats not a good sign for long lasting wearability. I may need to put a fan on it too. The APowers casing is lovely and small, but alas, for my system its a little too snug

Sorry but that has no sense for me. If you are going to use a PSU inside the brick (just like I do), you don't want to put inside that Apower that suddenly becomes hot. Put inside an small ATX Psu like I did, with a fan on it and you're ready. Appart of that you can put a voltimeter to measure the 5volts, just like Gibs does and I copied:

[fitzsteve]

@Phipscube,

Retr0fan has a great point there. Instead of breaking open that pretty little PSU, why not put ATX inside the one I am sending you?

Then you could use the APower for Ziggy's A600, I'm sure the ACA630 would appreciate the extra power

Also, I've made my mind up. Going to do the switcheroo on the PPC's over the weekend. I'll let you know how I get on with smaller feet (0.8cm ones)

Steve.

[phipscube]

Some good ideas there guys, cheers! It doesn't really make sense with the APower, I guess its because I like how small the board is. I'll open it carefully and see how it runs in the A600 PSU chassis, if its still a hottie then i'll think about getting an mATX like you suggest Retrofan Then give the APower to the Ziggster. I'll be putting a bit more kit in his A600 soon so I think it would help.

I also have been thinking of a big fan like yours Steve too. Maybe have one that completely devours the hole in my trapdoor and then just extend the mesh out a bit over the fan blades. I'll ponder on that too mate

[Retrofan]

Where do you notice you need more cooling, in the BVision, in the BPPC or in both?
Another thing: how does the "cheapo" usb Ethernet adapter work? I'm planning to put one in mine

[phipscube]

The BVision is fine with the 3 case fans over it. The problems are mainly the 060, and to a lesser extent the PPC. I'm happy running with the PPC as it is and the Amiga Elevated a few more mm with new feet, but the 060 is still gradually getting hotter due to it not having any active cooling. So I ponder on putting a big slow moving fan under like Steve suggests or my continued search for a 5 or 6mm fan that isn't too loud that I could place over the 060 instead of the heatsink on it now.

The el cheapo Ethernet adapter is just simply detected by the subway at the moment as a USB Ethernet adapter, i've not set up the software required to test it works online etc. But the author of Poseidon sent me a link to ebay and I simply bought the one he linked to as tested. Its this one: -

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-Fast-Ether...item3a507732dc

He did say that most if not all these types will work.

[thgill]

Originally Posted by phipscube

I want to put the APower inside an original A1200 (or A600 in this case) Brick so it looks authentic Its running quite hot too after about an hour. Initially its really only getting warm, but it suddenly becomes hot and thats not a good sign for long lasting wearability. I may need to put a fan on it too. The APowers casing is lovely and small, but alas, for my system its a little too snug

You are most likely maxing out what the amperage on the 5volt rail of what that PSU is capable of supplying. If I remember correctly its rated for 7 amps. Thats most likely the max and not for long term consumption. Typical is probably closer to 5 or 6 amps with only convection cooling.



I would suggest using a different psu. You have a pretty maxed out A1200 with lots of power consuming and hot running goodies under the hood and I sincerely doubt that psu will last long term under those conditions. Adding a fan may help, but its a band aid and not really a fix.


Perhaps you should measure the 5 volt rail with a multimeter and determine how much current the machine is pulling. Also look and see if the voltage is sagging on any of the rails.

The APower PSU is a very nice power supply (I wouldn't mind having one), I just think IMO its the wrong fit for a machine thats pretty much completely maxed out with virtually everything that can conceivably fit in the desktop A1200 case.

[phipscube]

I measured the current draw on the 5 volt rail and its between 5.8 and 6 Amps so thats why the APower is getting so hot after about an hour. I have decided to get an mATX supply and hack it into the PSU I got off Steve. The APower is a very nice supply and I was dreaming a bit when I got it. I've decided to give the APower to my Son to power his A600 with and ACA630 in it already (along with an indivision and other bits and bobs at some point) so it will be nice for his system

Originally Posted by thgill

You are most likely maxing out what the amperage on the 5volt rail of what that PSU is capable of supplying. If I remember correctly its rated for 7 amps. Thats most likely the max and not for long term consumption. Typical is probably closer to 5 or 6 amps with only convection cooling.



I would suggest using a different psu. You have a pretty maxed out A1200 with lots of power consuming and hot running goodies under the hood and I sincerely doubt that psu will last long term under those conditions. Adding a fan may help, but its a band aid and not really a fix.


Perhaps you should measure the 5 volt rail with a multimeter and determine how much current the machine is pulling. Also look and see if the voltage is sagging on any of the rails.

The APower PSU is a very nice power supply (I wouldn't mind having one), I just think IMO its the wrong fit for a machine thats pretty much completely maxed out with virtually everything that can conceivably fit in the desktop A1200 case.

[fitzsteve]

Originally Posted by phipscube

I measured the current draw on the 5 volt rail and its between 5.8 and 6 Amps so thats why the APower is getting so hot after about an hour. I have decided to get an mATX supply and hack it into the PSU I got off Steve. The APower is a very nice supply and I was dreaming a bit when I got it. I've decided to give the APower to my Son to power his A600 with and ACA630 in it already (along with an indivision and other bits and bobs at some point) so it will be nice for his system

Sounds like the way foward mate

Remember, we like pics

[Retrofan]

Originally Posted by phipscube

I measured the current draw on the 5 volt rail and its between 5.8 and 6 Amps so thats why the APower is getting so hot after about an hour.

That's too much. I read something Gibs said about what he had to do to have the right volts. That's why he installed the voltimeter. The HxC for example won't work with more than 5,4 volts.
Read this:
http://ohmygibs.free.fr/ohmygibs/Blo..._Entree_1.html

And remember, we like videos

[Loedown]

There's something manic about you people and it reminds me of the show Pimp My Ride.

Some really fine work and the original Amiga designers would applaud your work and effort.

[phipscube]

@Retrofan... are you mixing Amps with Volts? my +5V rail is around 4.7V and the current draw is between 5.8 and 6 Amps. The Voltage is still below 5V so no worries

Sorry I had no pics that time It was a quick check yesterday evening just to verify the current draw. I've been meaning to do it for a long time now anyway, just out of interest. When I get a new mATX supply i'll of course show pics and vids of the hacking, don't worry about that

@Loedown

Aye all this mad pimping seems to be a trend with us mad for its that are trying to run uber powerful Amigas in our wedge desktops cases. Its really very fun and challenging

[Retrofan]

Oh, yes, sorry they are amps, I didn't read well. I'm not even an electricky, you know? I switched on a multimeter some months ago... and sorry if I ask nonsenses, but then you're getting 4,7 volts? In this case that's not enough and that's why you're having to solder cables to have the correct amount. In my PSU I'm always measuring between 5,2-5,1 (and in the photos, Gibs gets those 5,1 too).
But you know much more than I about all this, and I can be very wrong.

[phipscube]

@retrofan... yeah 4.7V is barely enough, putting the BPPC and BV in there does that sort of thing and yes thats why i'm having to patch the +5V all over the place, all good fun hehehehe!

[wXR]

Hey have any of you crazy 1200 desktop modders ever tried/considered putting a Lyra in there? It would be sweet to have a rear-panel PS/2 port for KVMs and generally keeping the 1200 keyboard from too much wear.

If you put one on a desktop, would it mean disabling the default keyboard or could they both work at the same time?

[mfilos]

@wXR
Lyra didn't fit with all that stuff for me, but EZkey worked just fine, so I put it permanently on the backplate
You can see the mini pcb above BVision.



AFAIK they work just fine together. It really rocks not having to make hacks all this time I have my case opened for modding

[wXR]

That is awesome mfilos! Does the EZkey support multiple simultaneous keypresses too?

And what about PS/2 mouse in the 'KVM' example up there?

[mfilos]

NO the only adapter that supports Multiple keypresses is Lyra (that doesn't fit on my A1200).
For PS/2 mouse I use a Cocolino

[phipscube]

@mfilos

I must say your external keyboard hack is awesome mate, I have been pondering doing one on mine but I don't think I have enough space left!

[Mr B]

Um... I'm stunned. I just cant wrap my head around how you got all this stuff to fit. At least i know who's getting a email if i ever need anything repaired / modded. Denmark isn't further away then that i could actually drive there, so just you watch out. ;- )

Very impressive.
B!

[phipscube]

Well, here's some more bits and bobs i've been doing...

I ROLLED MY OWN 3.9 ROMS! YES!!







I had all sorts of issues getting it there, but with the help of Mario's and buying an el-cheapo Willem programmer off fleabay, I got there! (cheers Marios mate!) I am going to experiment a little more as for some reason the SCSI.Device I put on (Cosmos beta4) sometimes doesn't see my PROGRAMS and OS 4.0 Partitions, simply showing up as Uninitialised. But for now, it boots (after I altered my startup sequence to setpatch NOROMUPDATE QUIET, and commented out Blizkick). I basically used the same modules as in Marios' fabtastic guide, but added my own regged HSMathlibs and Cosmos' SCSI.Device.


I decided to add a small dicreet switch to manually override my Video Switcher: -



This is good for when I need to install a fresh OS or do things that would otherwise not involve having the switching software load up. I can then manually switch to RTG. The positions are AGA (and Auto RTG with software) as you see the switch now, then flicked over to the left (when looking from the front of machine) it manually sets BVision.


I've now finally solved my BPPC cooling solution!



A 5mm laptop fan/heatsink combo! its just resting on the naked PPC there to show how it will fit.

So how did I do this? here we go...

I drilled two holes in the side to allow a small amount of air to pass over the regulators that sit nearby.




Here i'm making new holes and threadding them with a thread tool ready for some standoffs. I've already mounted two small nylon screws and nuts to the original mount holes. The nuts will be super glued down to the BPPC board to allow the screws to hold the whole unit onto the PPC chip.




The standoffs go in, they need to be cut down a bit..




Cut and filed down to be level with the nuts + 0.5mm for leeway





I rested the heatsink onto the board with the screws and nuts in place, then carefully put super glue on the nuts, then unscrewed the screws to leave the nuts in place. I added more glue around the edge, then put a hair dryer over the glue gently, this makes it dry alot harder.





Arctic Silver 5 added to the PPC




Then a small 1mm thick copper plate placed over the top. this will help with dissipating the heat greatly.




More Arctic Silver on the copper plate




And the fan and heatsink combo put over that, then lightly screwed down with the nylon screws. I've added some small pieces of felt to avoid any vibrations on the trapdoor mesh.




It fits great. I had to fine tune the standoffs until they held the heatsink around 0.5mm above the nuts. If you look carefully you can see a small gap between nut and heatsink. This allows for a small amount of tightening.

[phipscube]

I added some heat shrink to the Custom made Oscillator, just to make it look nice and its more insulated than with the scrappy tape I put on it before this




You can see the Oscillator in place and also the fan heatsink combo.... but can you notice the side vent? yes, thats going to pour airflow over the oscillators and the 060




But I need to put heatsinks on this controller.... (I also drilled two more air holes in the heatsink)




And these two ICs. They both originally sat under the PPC heatsink and enjoyed a dash of air from the old fan. now they get nothing and hit around 66 Deg C!





So I used some of these copper VGA heat sinks with sticky thermal pads attached (pack of 8 off ebay):-




There we go (I took off the black felt pads, they did nothing but bulge the trapdoor unecessarily)





With the trapdoor cover on. I am happy I managed to make a solution that kept within the trapdoor. Now after 1 Hour on, The temps are, 52 Deg C on PPC (was 55), 50 Deg C on 060 (was 62) the controller hits 54 Deg C and the Regulator IC's hit 58 Deg C. Overall alot more evened out. I'm most happy that now my 060 is running MUCH cooler The fan is a bit quieter than the old one too so that's a bonus!



It only JUST fits!!!! (I added some 8mm feet too, you can see one in the corner there)

So thats that

I did buy an mATX supply and partly perform a retrofit to my Original PSU casing given to me by Mr Fitz (cheers steve) but the thing didn't work! I'm now looking into buying a VERY GOOD psu to be sure it will work and work well. Once I have it, i'll post what I do with photos of course

I'm also mulling over the idea of cramming a Lyra 2 PS2 keyboard interface in the old girl, just like how Marios did on his lovely A1200D PPC, but not sure it will fit yet. Its such a good Idea I really would like to have this feature too. Its such a pain with the original keyboard hanging about when modding. Lets see what happens, maybe I can't do this.

Anyway, hope you have all enjoyed my latest madness!

Cheers!

[fitzsteve]

Great mods mate, one again you amaze me with your SkillZ

[Retrofan]

Phipscube I'll tell you a bad new: the 5mm fan you have there (announced as 5mm thick in Ebay) is 7mm thick. The one I told you before is thinner than that (6mm).
I did some holes in some fans too, and I'm waiting for a set of those copper heatsinks too...

[phipscube]

@ steve, cheers mate

@Retrofan, yeah I wondered that too! But the compromise is that its not a loud ass, its very quiet (the one you showed me is quoted at 30dB, that put me off a bit). Anyway, it fits ok Its worth noting, though, that this solution wont work with a regular trapdoor fitted, it would have to be cut. The mesh I have on is only just ok because its alot thinner than the plastic of the trapdoor.

If anyone wants to give this a bash, then you will have to either do what I did to my trapdoor, or cut a hole, or simply leave the trapdoor off (I don't like this though as the trapdoor is designed to hold the cards in and stop them hanging).

[Retrofan]

I'm using the 6mm one over the 060. I had to use sandpaper in the rear part of the fan and in the aluminium trapdoor too. It fits very tight.
Also I'm holding the BPPC with the plastic upper surrounding of the trapdoor after filing it for that.

EDIT: Just seeing... then you've taked off the original BPPC fan? What I did was to change it for a 10mm thick one.