[A1200] Let's change those capacitors! - Page 3

Fingerlickin_B · 21 January 2010, 15:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cosmos

I have all caps for A500/A500+/A600/A1200/A4000 for sale : 6 euros including shipping

Can you supply a suitable set of Tantalums, as I'm hoping to use?

PZ.

8bitbubsy · 21 January 2010, 15:18

Tantalum capacitors can be dangerous to install, make 100% sure you have placed them with the correct polarization before turning on the system... Else you might get a small explosion in there

prowler · 21 January 2010, 15:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8bitbubsy

Else you might get a small explosion in there

He's not kidding, really!

Fingerlickin_B · 21 January 2010, 15:25

Cool, I've started a Tantalum-specific thread

PZ.

Cosmos · 21 January 2010, 17:09

For sale new capacitors with a color explanatory leaflet for :

A500
A500+
A600
A1200
A2000
A4000

One lot : 6 € including shipping
Two lots : 10 € including shipping
Three lots : 15 € including shipping
Four lots : 20 € including shipping

Same day shipping payment

Shipping in International Priority = fast delivery

(I need the rev of your mobo and the rev of the Zorro card for A4000)

Chain · 21 January 2010, 21:03

http://eab.abime.net/showpost.php?p=635864&postcount=9

Cosmos · 26 January 2010, 15:30

New capacitors available for :

- Blizzard 1230, 1240 or 1260,
- Blizzard 2040 or 2060,
- CyberVision64 3D,
- GVP Combo 030,
- Cyberstorm MK II.

One lot : 3 € including shipping
Two lots : 5 € including shipping
Three lots : 7 € including shipping
Four lots : 9 € including shipping

Same day shipping payment in International Priority = fast delivery

Thorham · 27 January 2010, 18:59

I finally replaced the caps in my A1200 (except for the two audio caps, because they didn't have non-polerized ones). Man, that sure sucked

I managed to ruin two smd solder pads (which was a pain to fix), and non of my caps are smd, so the ones in the upper left corner of the board are clamped together. Really messy, but it works. Now what I want to know is how long this is going to work...

Loedown · 27 January 2010, 22:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thorham

I finally replaced the caps in my A1200 (except for the two audio caps, because they didn't have non-polerized ones). Man, that sure sucked

I managed to ruin two smd solder pads (which was a pain to fix), and non of my caps are smd, so the ones in the upper left corner of the board are clamped together. Really messy, but it works. Now what I want to know is how long this is going to work...

I have access to the non polarised caps you need, I can send you a pair at cost + postage, if you like?

Paul

Thorham · 27 January 2010, 23:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Loedown

I have access to the non polarised caps you need, I can send you a pair at cost + postage, if you like?

Paul

Thanks for the offer, but I can probably get them at another electronics store, because there are several in Rotterdam.

8bitbubsy · 28 January 2010, 00:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thorham

I finally replaced the caps in my A1200 (except for the two audio caps, because they didn't have non-polerized ones). Man, that sure sucked

I managed to ruin two smd solder pads (which was a pain to fix), and non of my caps are smd, so the ones in the upper left corner of the board are clamped together. Really messy, but it works. Now what I want to know is how long this is going to work...

Well, you'll get better at it! There's plenty of old hardware from 1990-1994 with bad SMD caps, train on those...

Thorham · 28 January 2010, 01:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8bitbubsy

It was sheer luck there was anything left to solder onto, thank goodness, because you can't always scrape some top layer of to reveal more coper (simple circuit boards often allow this).

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8bitbubsy

Well, you'll get better at it! There's plenty of old hardware from 1990-1994 with bad SMD caps, train on those...

True, but I know how to solder (although I'm not a master), it's just that I don't have any way to remove solder easily, and that complicates things.

Loedown · 28 January 2010, 02:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thorham

It was sheer luck there was anything left to solder onto, thank goodness, because you can't always scrape some top layer of to reveal more coper (simple circuit boards often allow this).
True, but I know how to solder (although I'm not a master), it's just that I don't have any way to remove solder easily, and that complicates things.

Solder wick is your friend

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder_wick

8bitbubsy · 28 January 2010, 02:23

Yes, solder wick makes it much easier

Also, I can recommend using radical electrolytic caps instead. Much much easier to solder on, just use a scissor to trim the pins a bit... But this method can be dangerous, very easy to short the pins if you bend them..!

But I find it easier to work with

Loedown · 28 January 2010, 04:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8bitbubsy

Yes, solder wick makes it much easier

Also, I can recommend using radical electrolytic caps instead. Much much easier to solder on, just use a scissor to trim the pins a bit... But this method can be dangerous, very easy to short the pins if you bend them..!

But I find it easier to work with

Remind me never to lend you a pair of scissors

Wirecutters, my kingdom for a pair of wirecutters.

Damion · 28 January 2010, 09:39

I'm no expert, but I'll pass on a few observations after replacing a lot of these without lifting pads or causing damage of any kind.

I think the key is low heat, and of course the less time pads are exposed to heat the better. For this reason I would be very careful using solder wick for anything other than (quickly) cleaning the bare pads.

I prefer to use a temperature controlled iron (no more than 600F) with a little excess solder, carefully lifting each side. I've also had great luck using ChipQuik (even less heat necessary), also for replacing the little ICs damaged by leakage from nearby caps.

If the pads are already corroded, it takes more heat and longer exposure to melt the old solder - absolutely not ideal. In that case I would stick with a low iron temperature and use ChipQuik. There's also the "ghetto" method: Use tweezers to hold the black plastic base while slowly, gently prying off the top of the cap. Lift up on one side of the brittle plastic to break it away, then desolder the bare leads. This method works because holding the base limits mechanical stress on the pads while you're lifting off the cap. I would only use this as a very last resort, but I can say I've *never* lifted a pad the few times I've done it (and those pads should have lifted, they were really nasty).

You won't lift pads if you

1. Use low temperature/limit heat exposure time

2. As close to "zero" mechanical stress on the pads as possible

Also, you should be able to keep a fingertip on the top of a new SMT cap while installing it and not burn your finger.

Jonathan Drain · 29 January 2010, 21:02

My composite output sometimes loses colour on Workbench screen when the white screen title bar is at the top. Is this a capacitor issue, or just a crummy TV?

Chain · 30 January 2010, 12:08

how about caps in CDTV?

lots of them are bog standard elyt caps which can be easily replaced, BUT there are three filtering caps which are 3300uF/10V AND they are 15mm high/16mm diameter.

Ive spotted one of them is now leaking (traces are still good! thanks god).

Is there any company which still makes those fat boys in this size? (Original manufacturer was Nichicon). There will be probably enought place to fit classic esr axial cap somewhere else ,but it will be freakin ugly:/

Matt020 · 30 January 2010, 12:58

Can I just say.... that this thread has now confused the crap out of me.

Loedown · 30 January 2010, 14:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chain

how about caps in CDTV?

lots of them are bog standard elyt caps which can be easily replaced, BUT there are three filtering caps which are 3300uF/10V AND they are 15mm high/16mm diameter.

Ive spotted one of them is now leaking (traces are still good! thanks god).

Is there any company which still makes those fat boys in this size? (Original manufacturer was Nichicon). There will be probably enought place to fit classic esr axial cap somewhere else ,but it will be freakin ugly:/

I can get 13 x 21, but a suggestion for you, lay the cap down and run the legs, *small* blob of silicon underneath to hold the cap in place. Nichicon are still provided in many places, but perhaps this sizing is by now rare.

21 January 2010, 17:09	#45
Cosmos Banned Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: France Posts: 655	For sale new capacitors with a color explanatory leaflet for : A500 A500+ A600 A1200 A2000 A4000 One lot : 6 € including shipping Two lots : 10 € including shipping Three lots : 15 € including shipping Four lots : 20 € including shipping Same day shipping payment Shipping in International Priority = fast delivery (I need the rev of your mobo and the rev of the Zorro card for A4000) Last edited by Cosmos; 26 March 2010 at 18:59.

26 January 2010, 15:30	#47
Cosmos Banned Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: France Posts: 655	New capacitors available for : - Blizzard 1230, 1240 or 1260, - Blizzard 2040 or 2060, - CyberVision64 3D, - GVP Combo 030, - Cyberstorm MK II. One lot : 3 € including shipping Two lots : 5 € including shipping Three lots : 7 € including shipping Four lots : 9 € including shipping Same day shipping payment in International Priority = fast delivery Last edited by Cosmos; 26 March 2010 at 18:59.

30 January 2010, 12:08	#58
Chain A-Collector, repairments Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Czech Rep. Age: 50 Posts: 1,536	how about caps in CDTV? lots of them are bog standard elyt caps which can be easily replaced, BUT there are three filtering caps which are 3300uF/10V AND they are 15mm high/16mm diameter. Ive spotted one of them is now leaking (traces are still good! thanks god). Is there any company which still makes those fat boys in this size? (Original manufacturer was Nichicon). There will be probably enought place to fit classic esr axial cap somewhere else ,but it will be freakin ugly:/ Attached Thumbnails Last edited by Chain; 30 January 2010 at 12:56.

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21 January 2010, 15:18	#42
8bitbubsy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Norway Posts: 1,711	Tantalum capacitors can be dangerous to install, make 100% sure you have placed them with the correct polarization before turning on the system... Else you might get a small explosion in there

21 January 2010, 15:25	#44
Fingerlickin_B Amiga Nut Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Belco, Australia Posts: 2,242	Cool, I've started a Tantalum-specific thread PZ.

21 January 2010, 21:03	#46
Chain A-Collector, repairments Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Czech Rep. Age: 50 Posts: 1,536	http://eab.abime.net/showpost.php?p=635864&postcount=9

27 January 2010, 18:59	#48
Thorham Computer Nerd Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Rotterdam/Netherlands Age: 47 Posts: 3,754	I finally replaced the caps in my A1200 (except for the two audio caps, because they didn't have non-polerized ones). Man, that sure sucked I managed to ruin two smd solder pads (which was a pain to fix), and non of my caps are smd, so the ones in the upper left corner of the board are clamped together. Really messy, but it works. Now what I want to know is how long this is going to work...

28 January 2010, 02:23	#54
8bitbubsy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Norway Posts: 1,711	Yes, solder wick makes it much easier Also, I can recommend using radical electrolytic caps instead. Much much easier to solder on, just use a scissor to trim the pins a bit... But this method can be dangerous, very easy to short the pins if you bend them..! But I find it easier to work with

28 January 2010, 09:39	#56
Damion Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: US Posts: 315	I'm no expert, but I'll pass on a few observations after replacing a lot of these without lifting pads or causing damage of any kind. I think the key is low heat, and of course the less time pads are exposed to heat the better. For this reason I would be very careful using solder wick for anything other than (quickly) cleaning the bare pads. I prefer to use a temperature controlled iron (no more than 600F) with a little excess solder, carefully lifting each side. I've also had great luck using ChipQuik (even less heat necessary), also for replacing the little ICs damaged by leakage from nearby caps. If the pads are already corroded, it takes more heat and longer exposure to melt the old solder - absolutely not ideal. In that case I would stick with a low iron temperature and use ChipQuik. There's also the "ghetto" method: Use tweezers to hold the black plastic base while slowly, gently prying off the top of the cap. Lift up on one side of the brittle plastic to break it away, then desolder the bare leads. This method works because holding the base limits mechanical stress on the pads while you're lifting off the cap. I would only use this as a very last resort, but I can say I've never lifted a pad the few times I've done it (and those pads should have lifted, they were really nasty). You won't lift pads if you 1. Use low temperature/limit heat exposure time 2. As close to "zero" mechanical stress on the pads as possible Also, you should be able to keep a fingertip on the top of a new SMT cap while installing it and not burn your finger.

29 January 2010, 21:02	#57
Jonathan Drain Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Sector K240 Posts: 338	My composite output sometimes loses colour on Workbench screen when the white screen title bar is at the top. Is this a capacitor issue, or just a crummy TV?

30 January 2010, 12:58	#59
Matt020 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: West Australia Age: 47 Posts: 210	Can I just say.... that this thread has now confused the crap out of me.

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