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Old 14 February 2020, 14:02   #21
Jope
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Good show!

The Arkanoid feeling is a very specific one though, thanks to the gearing. I have one genuine arkanoid spinner and one 3rd party one that I use with my Taito boards, now it's the only way I can play it. :-)
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Old 15 February 2020, 08:47   #22
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Nice maybe you can gave us a list of the right components to buy and show us some pictures?
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Old 15 February 2020, 16:39   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kamelito View Post
Nice maybe you can gave us a list of the right components to buy and show us some pictures?

I'll let you do some of the legwork yourself, but this would be my shopping list. Bear in mind that nobody has tested a 200PPR rotary encoder, but based upon the tests done with a 600PPR device, it should enable 3/4 of a turn to move the mouse the full width of the screen which is reasonable.



Shopping list:



200PPR Photoelectric rotary encoder
Nice heavy solid aluminium knob
Joystick extension lead (cut the male end off and wire to it)
3 x arcade style push buttons
Case to put it all in


Plus other random bits such as rubber feet for the case, strain relief cable grommet, terminal block or connector for wiring it up etc.


Post links to potential parts (is that allowed?) and we can validate them.


The knob I liked best (I bought a few to try) can be found by searching the well known auction site for "38x25mm Solid Aluminum Knob"
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Old 16 February 2020, 10:26   #24
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Thanks I don’t see why one shouldn’t be allowed to post links.
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Old 16 February 2020, 10:58   #25
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Yes, it is allowed. Any links to a web store or ebay will of course go bad eventually, but such is life. It's best to avoid it, but of course use your common sense.. In a situation like this it's unavoidable.
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Old 16 February 2020, 20:36   #26
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Example parts... I've no affiliation with these sellers and you'll likely find cheaper if you do a more thorough search. Do some research.

I've tested a 600PPR device on an Amiga, approx 1/4 turn was needed for the mouse to travel the full screen width in Workbench in PAL High Res.

A 200PPR device should need ~ 3/4 turn to travel the full screen
A 100PPR device should need ~1.5 turns to travel the full screen


Here's a 100PPR device:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100P-R-Ph...MAAOxyepRRvuJH

Here's a 200PPR device:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-pcs-200...EAAOSwWkddbhc7

Here's a nice solid knob:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GD-PARTS-...cAAOSwttVaL9AH

Same but cheaper with a white line on it:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/38x25mm-S...4AAOSwOsBZoAEj

Joystick extension lead:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Atari-Ami...gAAOSwWuldUa4-

I'd cut the male end off the lead and wire to the exposed end, This leaves a nice moulded female end for connection to the Amiga,

For a case you'll need something deep enough to accommodate the rotary encoder (>30mm ish)

There are numerous arcade push buttons, just do a search. I prefer the leaf switch type as opposed to the clicky microswitches. Your preference though.

That should give you some ideas to get started, let us know how you get on.
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Old 17 February 2020, 11:12   #27
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Thanks
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Old 21 February 2020, 17:08   #28
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ChadsArcade, thank you for this! This is what I was looking for!
I will try this out as soon.
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Old 21 February 2020, 18:14   #29
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Letting my thought run about it, there is just one thing I don't see right yet.
Looking at the knob and the picture of the 200ppr device, how would the construction of a case and the rotatory device be? At the picture of the device I think I see some holes drilled at the surface where I expect the knob to be mounted. That's a problem, cause that's where the knob should be placed over. So, how to mount the whole combination in a solid way? The first impression give me the idea of a sort of wooden box or possibly better some hard plastic box with an aluminium very tiny plate, falling over the knob holder part (It looks like about 2.5 cm wide, give or take it is not in the drawing). And then constructing this aluminium plate over the surface of the case to the sides, where it could be mounted on the sides of the box with screws. There seems no other way. Or is there? Put the rotary device loose in a drilled hole will not work in any solution I think.
What is the original designer purpose of these devices when it comes to construction?
Even under the panel of an arcade cabinet, it seems hard.

To end up with something that can fall in pieces any time destroys the fun.

Anyway, when there is some time I will try it, though I am not an experienced constructor.
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Old 22 February 2020, 12:19   #30
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It's fairly easy to mount in a plastic of metal enclosure. Simply drill 4 holes in a pattern matching the central part of the encoder and 3 of the mounting holes, example here:
https://github.com/ChadsArcade/Mame-...ner1-small.jpg

Then offer up the encoder from the rear of the panel and secure it with 3 screws, foe example:
https://github.com/ChadsArcade/Mame-...ner2-small.jpg

The knob will hide the screws if you use a big enough one. You could use countersunk screws if you prefer:
https://github.com/ChadsArcade/Mame-...ner3-small.jpg

There is plenty enough of the shaft poking through the panel to attach the knob and have it well clear of the screws and body of the encoder.

For a thicker wooden panel it would be a little trickier. I would attach the encoder to a small square metal mounting plate as per above. Then, drill a large enough hole in your panel to accommodate the spinner when dropped in from above. Use a router to cut out a recess for the metal plate if you want a flush finish, and secure the mounting plate with countersunk screws from the top of the panel. Cover the whole thing with an overlay if you want to hide the metal plate.
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Old 23 February 2020, 12:57   #31
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I like it a lot!

Thanks you Chadsarcade, you let people no choice but to order and try it!
One more question. This metal enclosure, would it be possible to order somewhere? What keyword should I use to find it? If I would have a plate just like in your pictures, it is easy to measure and drill the holes. Do you think these things are for sale somewhere? An alternative would be to go to a iron distribution shop locally here, but I am not sure they do small requests like this, the surface is too small for their machines I think.
Anyway, you have been more then generous in your tips and idea's so, I will just try and go for it after the parts arrive. Thanks again.
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Old 23 February 2020, 13:02   #32
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One last question if you have time. If I would order a rotary device just like this one, but for an arcade cabinet project. In which the rotary device (ppr) should act like a modern mouse, than which ppr would i need, to have good control in for example arkanoid? Would it be possible to connect the wires to a usb connector? I know this question is not related to amiga, but since you were getting in to it you might now.
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Old 23 February 2020, 18:28   #33
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I got the metal plate for mounting the spinner from ebay, search for 1mm mild steel and you'll find auctions that sell it cut to various sizes.

You may find a suitable plastic case if you search, then you could drill it directly and attach the spinner without needing a metal plate.

This page gives the effective PPR for most arcade game spinners:
https://web.archive.org/web/20160421...ner_Turn_Count

Arkanoid is 486 so if you're buying a 400PPR device for the Amiga, try it on Arkanoid before buying one for that as well. I don't have an Arkanoid PCB but usually they accept the quadrature signals so it should just connect to. Jope may be able to clarify.

If you're connecting to a Mame PC and want a USB device, then take a look at my GitHub, https://github.com/ChadsArcade/Mame-Spinner
I use the Arduino Pro Micro version on an RGB-Pi in a Jamma cab and it works well. I used a 600PPR device and the software can lower this to 300, 150 or 75, you can set the PPR by grounding one of the other pins. All the details arecommented in the code on that page.

Good luck and post pictures of your progress
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Old 23 February 2020, 18:47   #34
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I think I am confused now, in you earlier messages I understood a 200 PPR was best for Amiga am I wrong? You said your try out figured out that 400 was too sensitive and destroyed the game play. Could you please confirm one more time?

Yes, My arcade is basically a mame pc. Yes, very good, it helps a lot. But I will first focus on the amiga.
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Old 23 February 2020, 19:01   #35
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Originally Posted by leeuwtje View Post
I think I am confused now, in you earlier messages I understood a 200 PPR was best for Amiga am I wrong? You said your try out figured out that 400 was too sensitive and destroyed the game play. Could you please confirm one more time?

Yes, My arcade is basically a mame pc. Yes, very good, it helps a lot. But I will first focus on the amiga.

Sorry, I meant 200PPR. I had 400 in my mind as the nearest match for Arkanoid.
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Old 23 February 2020, 21:11   #36
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I don't have an Arkanoid PCB but usually they accept the quadrature signals so it should just connect to. Jope may be able to clarify.
Yes, the original Arkanoid takes the quadrature signals directly. Taito classic pinout and IIRC they're hooked up to the pins for left and right joystick. We're a bit far from Amigas now, so let's get back on track..
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Old 24 February 2020, 14:41   #37
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Thanks ChadsArcade for all your time. All is clear now.
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