15 July 2008, 18:29 | #1 |
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How to make nice looking cutouts in plastic computer cases :)
Just wanted to start this thread, hoping for an answer and possibly a sticky - to make modded Amigas look greater!
Main problem to me is knowing how to avoid cracks before I mangle my Amiga, what drills and tools to get, etc. Write your tips here! |
15 July 2008, 18:33 | #2 |
Ya' like it Retr0?
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I will swear by
Optionally in my workshop I have a Drill Press, this has a depth locking feature for some types of work |
15 July 2008, 19:26 | #3 |
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Cutting disks, is that like a milling tool? Hi speed rotation?
Or is it like a black & decker multitool with lockable RPM? (For gradually grating away x mm of a case edge? Or do you mean one of those "king's crown" rotary hole saws you put on a powertool? Please link to pics - not just for me, we have many languages on here, and these powertools have niched name not usually taught in English class :P Mill, grind, bit, etc... And yes, sanding paper is essential - well, not the ones for wood but the ones for metal I think? |
15 July 2008, 19:37 | #4 |
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@Photon
okay... some luscious picies for you... the Rotary Tool of Choice for me (Black and Decker RT650) heres the same model of Drill Press heres the Scroll Saw thats damn handy in a pinch Never leave home without Needle Files Another MUST have tool Detail Sander Sand Paper is by choice really, I use a combination of 100 Imperial for QUICK rough work, then around 150-350 on a detail sander then 800-1000 for detail work |
15 July 2008, 21:38 | #5 |
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The short answer is patience is needed, too.
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15 July 2008, 21:51 | #6 |
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15 July 2008, 22:08 | #7 |
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@Zetro all that tools for cutting plastic?
i have simply and quick cutter solution .. i hope soon photos.. |
15 July 2008, 22:55 | #8 |
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Zetr0, awesome. Star material, this.
Yes, precision sanding paper is essential, don't forget a proper block for straight sanding (no gay references please). I'm staying away from ordinary powertools like drills, cutting the case open with a B&D saw, then filing, then sanding etc. It's a great way to make uneven edges :P Is there a better way? The secret reason I'm asking is to make a simple slot for my CF... There's also a matter of, you know, securing the case for mangling. I have a vice, but the case is very wobbly in it. Better ways of securing it, recommended padding to prevent the vice from making marks in the case? That kinda thing... Was hoping to buy some powertools to do it correctly, I'm thinking that ...what is it? 'scroll saw'? takes too much space :P |
16 July 2008, 15:58 | #9 |
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I use a 15W soldering iron with a pointy tip and a metal ruler, i mark the plastic with some permanent ink pen, then i glue the ruler along the marked area with some good duct tape.The low temperature iron melds thru the plastic without burning it too much, the metal ruler keeps the iron in place while it cuts along the marked area.
For the finishing touch i simply use some file sanders, (the square and flat ones are better for the corners), and some fine grained wood sand paper. |
16 July 2008, 20:57 | #10 |
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Heh, that method has been used by me before... IIRC (from 1990 !) doesn't it give ridges along the edges, and when you use files you're back to the problem of making straight edges by hand?
Talked to a friend, might come over to his basement full of band saws and fixed mount drills. Still, it's kinda hard to make a cutout along the edge of the top cover, like ________________________|¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨|_____________ Perhaps use the saw to make the | cuts, then ruler+scalpel (or one of those tile roler knives?) repeatedly to make the ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨ easy to just break off? I also need to make a big (80x50) rectangular hole above the A600 floppy. I can open it up with a drill in each corner... then disconnect the saw-band and stick it in the hole, but won't it look as ugly as when one did the same in woodcraft class in school ? :S More general techniques guys! F.ex. how to safely grind the C= on the A600 emblem to a shining mirror instead of the grill grate pattern that is there now. Might also cover it with some silicone paint, spray the case matte black, and remove the silicone from the emblem, would look nice I think |
16 July 2008, 21:53 | #11 |
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For the badge: remove it carefully with a scalpel or screwdriver (very thin tip). After the paint job, put it back.
If the original glue has dried, use shoemaker glue (contact glue, not bonder type!). |
16 July 2008, 23:28 | #12 |
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@Proton
I use a sharp blade to remove the ridges along the edges, but most times they form on top of the metal ruler, so they´re pretty easy to remove though, and for the files, i usually start with a soft one to avoid that, and i only remove the iron ruler after im quite pleased with the sanding results.I use this method for some time now...hummm...since 1990 maybe, it improved a lot since i got the 15W iron and the metal ruler, the other methods described above are better, but this one is cheaper. Anyway if anyone plan to use it you do well to test it first in a piece of plastic. I start from the center to the borders, and leave about 2 mm before reaching the corners, i usually unite the corners with a small saw (any cheap wood or iron saw will do the trick). Plus: You dont need to travel to Amsterdam to get high, plastic fumes will do the trick, and they´re perfectly legal.LOLOL Last edited by Yoto; 16 July 2008 at 23:49. |
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