How would I hook the Amiga up to one of these?

[Pyromania]

How would I hook the Amiga up to one of these please?

I recently got a Sony PVM-8045Q 8 and want to try it on an Amiga.

http://users.rowan.edu/~winkler/equi...esBrochure.pdf

[fitzsteve]

Assuming that has BNC connectors you need to either get a lead especially built or use an RGB Scart with a Scart to BNC adapter like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321744637454

You can use a small composite to BNC adapter but the image will not be good, you really want to use RGB to get the most out of this screen.

[Jope]

Alternatively: buffered sync dongle + vga -> 5bnc cable + ethernet bnc t connector for a dirty sync combination. :-)

Maybe the buffer won't burn in the sync dongle with prolonged use, but at least for testing this has worked well. :-D

[Pyromania]

I’d like to skip the composite step if possible and I’m in the USA so don’t believe I should use SCART either. Maybe there’s an Amiga cable that’s 23 pin RGB to BNC?

[fitzsteve]

Originally Posted by Pyromania

I’d like to skip the composite step if possible and I’m in the USA so don’t believe I should use SCART either. Maybe there’s an Amiga cable that’s 23 pin RGB to BNC?

I don't think this cable exists but it should be possible to make one up or use 15pin VGA to BNC cable and Amiga 23pin to VGA adapter?

[fitzsteve]

By the way, the adapter linked can be used for most RGB scart based consoles so a great way to get round the lack of Scart in the US. What do you guys do for proper RGB over there?

[Daedalus]

Off-the-shelf solutions, you're probably limited to the SCART option (I don't see why you shouldn't use SCART in the USA, other than preferring not to daisy-chain connectors together). I've never seen a 23-pin to RGB phono or BNC cable. But they would be simple enough to make up if you wanted.

[fitzsteve]

Here this old thread has some more info:

http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=76742

I do miss my old PVM

[dreadnought]

Originally Posted by fitzsteve

What do you guys do for proper RGB over there?

For RGB you can now buy Retrotink converters, probably some others before that. I think a bigger problem is the PAL/NTSC incompatibility (I think PVMs are multi-system though).

[fitzsteve]

Yeah PVM are multi system, well at least mine was so in theory you can enjoy all the PAL goodness

[Pyromania]

Originally Posted by fitzsteve

Here this old thread has some more info:

http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=76742

I do miss my old PVM

Thanx for the link!

[fxgogo]

Depending on the PVM and the addon boards plugged in, you can have loads of options. Looking at the brochure you provided, you have RGB/Component and YC. They should be BNC connectors for the former and a mini din for the latter.

I would try for the RGB/Component option. I have made my own cables in the past to connect to an Philips 8833 MKII via RGB, it is not too difficult to do. Your monitor syncs the signal on the green line, and I can't remember what the Amiga outputs off hand, so double check that first.

[Pyromania]

Is anyone willing to make a cable for me please?

[jbilander]

Nice find,

3rd button toggles external sync (needed for RGB) and internal sync (needed for Component)

Making your own RGB (with Csync) cable it would probably be easiest to start with something like this...

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/...onverter-cable

...and then remove the scart plug and solder in a female d-sub db23 (if you can find one) or use a cut down db25 to 23 (hacksaw modified).

I recently did this small pcb (jlcpcb) that you can stick in between the solder lugs of a db23 and put a smd resistor on the Csync line as well as Coupling capacitors typically (1210 220uF) on the RGB lines, this help for me against vertical bars (jailbars) on my Samsung LCD (RGB Scart input). I haven't had time to try the pcb myself so haven't put it on github yet, but if you want to be the first to try it out just PM me and I'll send you one in an envelope, I had 30 pcs made for $5 and I don't need 30 pcs myself I don't know what csync resistor value to use with that PVM, if any needed?, maybe it is ok to use the Amigas TTL level csync directly? Otherwise suitable Csync-resistor value range (for normal TVs) can be found on Stedy's RGB scart thread (Hardware mods). If you don't want Coupling caps on the RGB lines then you can just solder blob the pads or use 0 Ohm resistors.



Oh, one more thing, it looks like your PVM has a mono RCA plug input for audio so if you are going to use the built-in speaker you would need a small stereo to mono rca adapter.

[fxgogo]

Originally Posted by jbilander

I recently did this small pcb (jlcpcb) that you can...

Nice job with the board jbilander, very useful and makes for a clean solder job. I did not check to see if I should have similar resistors and capacitors for my cable. I know enough about electronics to get myself into serious trouble, or shocked. Do you think I should do something similar for the Philips 883 MKII?

[Hewitson]

That's a very nice little PCB you've designed there. I'd be interested to see screenshots with and without it!

[jbilander]

Thanks. A quick look at the Philips CM8833 Service Manual says TTL level input Low 0V-0.8V, High 2.4V-5V...

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/74...33.html#manual

...so looks like you are good without using any resistor.

The reason for using a resistor in series with Csync is that it acts as a potential divider dropping the voltage level down to what more modern TV's expect (they normally expect a 1V peak to peak signal). What resistor value to use can easily be calculated with Ohm's law. You have 47 Ohm from the Amiga and normally 75 Ohm termination at the TV. The voltage level on the Csync signal coming from the Amiga is normally around 4.8V peak to peak, put in the values 4.8V, 47 Ohm, 330 Ohm and 75 Ohm in the calculator below and you end up at ~0.8V with using a 330 Ohm resistor. This is very well explained on Stedy's site http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/am...iga_scart.html

https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/ele...alculator.html

[Hewitson]

A 1V Zener Diode would be another option. Would certainly be better regulated, but that's not necessary for this application.

[fxgogo]

That is brilliant, thanks for looking that up jbilander. Super useful.

Originally Posted by jbilander

Thanks. A quick look at the Philips CM8833 Service Manual says TTL level input Low 0V-0.8V, High 2.4V-5V...

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/74...33.html#manual

...so looks like you are good without using any resistor.

The reason for using a resistor in series with Csync is that it acts as a potential divider dropping the voltage level down to what more modern TV's expect (they normally expect a 1V peak to peak signal). What resistor value to use can easily be calculated with Ohm's law. You have 47 Ohm from the Amiga and normally 75 Ohm termination at the TV. The voltage level on the Csync signal coming from the Amiga is normally around 4.8V peak to peak, put in the values 4.8V, 47 Ohm, 330 Ohm and 75 Ohm in the calculator below and you end up at ~0.8V with using a 330 Ohm resistor. This is very well explained on Stedy's site http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/am...iga_scart.html

https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/ele...alculator.html

[Pyromania]

Thanks for all the help in this thread guys.