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Old 02 October 2016, 16:54   #1
Akira
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Unhappy CD32 drive wouldn't read discs anymore

Well this is really upsetting, this unit was working just fine some months ago when I last used it.

Today I booted it up and it seems the CD drive has given up the ghost.
The disc spins up and the drive activity LED lights up, tne it tries to read and nothing.
Sometimes it makes a "krrk krrk krrk" noise, which is how I first suspected something was awfully wrong.

So are these normal issues of a failed laser? Is there anything I can try to see if it will resurrect or should I just buy a new laser?
Any help greatly appreciated

Last edited by Akira; 21 February 2017 at 19:33.
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Old 02 October 2016, 17:28   #2
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I recorded a video of what it is doing:

[ Show youtube player ]

Such a sad feeling to wake up jolly on Sunday morning, ready to play some Amiga games, and not being able to
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Old 02 October 2016, 21:39   #3
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Have you tried cleaning the lense?
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Old 03 October 2016, 06:48   #4
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Yes I tried cleaning it, but it feels like it's "stuck" somewhere, cllicking away.

I will probably buy a new set of lens but I would like to try "recalibrating" this one if anybody thinks it's worth a shot, a friend already said it is. Are there instructions for calibration anywhere?

What I find weird is that this wasn't progressively getting worse. It was all running fine til some months ago, I haven't used it since, and now it just fails all of a sudden.

Oh yeah before someone suggest recapping the unit, I already did that 2 years ago.
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Old 03 October 2016, 13:08   #5
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I think it is just laser diode rot.
I got a new laser off ebay for a cheap price. It is a commonly used laser.

I also had the same laser in my 1990's AIWA stereo and that started skipping after some years.
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Old 03 October 2016, 14:09   #6
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Some useful info here... http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/Pa...dex/index.html

Also, check the caps on the CD controller board, these ones always get forgotten about... http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php...l=1#post732854
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Old 03 October 2016, 14:50   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmsteele View Post
I would not recommend doing this. They are calibrated in the factory, you should only need to change laser.
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Old 03 October 2016, 16:38   #8
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Quote:
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I would not recommend doing this. They are calibrated in the factory, you should only need to change laser.
I see. If I change this it will affect the drive even with the new lens, right? I think you are right and shouldn't touch this at all.

wmsteele, good info about those caps. At this point I am not sure if those were changed as I didn't do the recapping. I am guessing those caps are fine, but I'll double check!
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Old 03 October 2016, 17:52   #9
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Where fitting a new CD lens I've always had to recalibrate following Stedy's guide, I'm not 100% sure as to why, I'm guessing that the controller board is calibrated to that particular CD lens/pickup at manufacture so needs redone if changed. I have has some success without recalibration but never to the point where I was 100% happy with the results (occasional stutters or loading pauses/failures).
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Old 03 October 2016, 19:34   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmsteele View Post
Where fitting a new CD lens I've always had to recalibrate following Stedy's guide, I'm not 100% sure as to why, I'm guessing that the controller board is calibrated to that particular CD lens/pickup at manufacture so needs redone if changed. I have has some success without recalibration but never to the point where I was 100% happy with the results (occasional stutters or loading pauses/failures).


Yes, but they are calibrated to read real CD's, not copied CD's. I have worked on these mechs for over 11 years and never once needed to mess with focus, gain etc etc. 9 times out of 10, simply tweaking the laser power on the laser itself would help unless laser was screwed, then you would just simply swap it out.


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Old 03 October 2016, 20:28   #11
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OK I'll see about recalibrating. I read some advice about measuring the pot's position before touching them so you can restore them, would putting my multimeter probes between the pins of the potentiometers be enough? They are well exposed beneath the controller PCB.

I checked the caps on the controller PCB and they look fine to me. Pics:







Regarding replacement lens, some dude on eBay, from Hong Kong, is selling a replacement lens for like 22 USD. I found in another thread here that the lens are actually Sony KSS-210B or KSS-210A, and I can find more options for that and locally which I prefer (reduced shipping times and cheaper all round).
Is it fine to buy either of those KSS-210B/A lens? Which is better, A or B? I read somewhere that maybe B is more lenient with CD-Rs?

My CD32 actually has KSS-210A (12732 EA475) and it was reading CD-Rs just fine. If i replace by a 210A do I need to mess with the pots? The advice here is opposing and I don't really know what to do. As a general rule I will not mess with the pots as long as it works.
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Old 03 October 2016, 20:46   #12
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I just bought the KSS-210B, and I only have CD-R's.

I did NOT muck about with the pots. You just need to break a solder link in the new lens and away you go. The lens has a sticker/instructions about the link.

Last edited by Higgy; 03 October 2016 at 20:56.
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Old 03 October 2016, 22:22   #13
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If you can get the same laser, then do so. Simply swap it out as higgy said, there is a grounding short, you need to remove then your good to go.
Just so you know, A and B have slightly differing specs. So its best to stick to what ever the mech has, in this case A.

If anyone really insists on altering crucial pots, then mark them with a black marker pen. So you can atleast get them as close as to what they were before.
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Old 04 October 2016, 01:23   #14
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What about this grounding spot?Does anyone have a pic of exactly what I have to undo?
I'm not gonna buy the : official CD32 lens" shit, it's a ripoff, will take forever to come from Hong Kong and I can get the exact same part in the US for 1/5 of the price.

I also think getting the same part would be better so I'll get a 210A
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Old 04 October 2016, 19:21   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akira View Post
What about this grounding spot?Does anyone have a pic of exactly what I have to undo?
I'm not gonna buy the : official CD32 lens" shit, it's a ripoff, will take forever to come from Hong Kong and I can get the exact same part in the US for 1/5 of the price.

I also think getting the same part would be better so I'll get a 210A
Its just two solder points with a blob of solder. Just dab the Iron against it and it will come off. Or you can use Braid (solder mop) to remove it.
I dont have any pictures of it to hand.

Warning to everyone, avoid KSN-*** lasers. They were a cheap copy laser, that failed every time. Its best to stick to KSS-*** lasers.
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Old 04 October 2016, 23:39   #16
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Oh I know how to remove solder, I'm rather intrigued as to how to recognize what solder I have to remove. Next I know I desoldered everything :chese
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Old 05 October 2016, 09:07   #17
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From memory there is a sticker showing the solder area.

I didn't have to go on the 'net to find it's location, it was obvious. Don't worry
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Old 05 October 2016, 15:46   #18
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OK cool, I'm eagerly waiting to receive the unit. Won't be til next week!
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Old 07 October 2016, 20:09   #19
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OK I got the new laser unit earlier than I expected.
I can't find any gob of solder between two points anywhere on it. Here are pics.

Am I good to go or is this hidden somewhere I can't see?






I did notice the lens cassette is a bit different but I am hoping it fits fine.
[edit] hmmmm the metal thing that covers the lens seems to protrude more into the CD tray now, I haven't plugged this in yet so no idea if it will work but I hope it does

Last edited by Akira; 07 October 2016 at 20:19.
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Old 08 October 2016, 00:49   #20
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Attached your pic with shorting link pointed out.
Don't worry about lens plastic, it will be fine.

When changing laser, I normally take the opportunity to clean out motors and oil laser runner bar.
I normally desolder motor board and then spray a little DW40 into the holes of each motor then run them on a 6v DC PSU. Just don't use to much DW40.
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