GBS-8220, 23DB Connectors and Leads

[Higgy]

Ok here we are:

First off nice work. Here are the options (monitor settings) from @dooklink I have tested:

Option 6 - RGBHV_720x576@50Hz_RGB_288p_No_Scaling:
Screen - fits ok
AMIGA - 640x256 - No fuzziness under cursor
640x512 - No interlace, picture is bad
MONITOR Reports - H. 31.26 KHz V. 49.93 Hz Pixel Clock. 31.83 MHz Resolution. 800x600

Option 7 - RGBHV_720x576@50Hz_RGB_576i50_No_Scaling:
Screen - fits ok
AMIGA - 640x256 - Fuzziness under cursor
640x512 - Interlace solid, but there is fuzziness under cursor
MONITOR Reports - H. 31.19 KHz V. 49.82 Hz Pixel Clock. 31.83 MHz Resolution. 800x600

Option 8 - RGBHV_800x600@60Hz_RGB_288p50_No_Scaling:
Screen - off to left hand side. I cannot center it.
AMIGA - 640x256 - No fuzziness under cursor
640x512 - Iinterlace, but there is flicker
MONITOR Reports - H. 37.68 KHz V. 59.90 Hz Pixel Clock. 40.12 MHz Resolution. 800x600

Option 9 - RGBHV_800x600@60Hz_RGB_288p50_V_Scaling:
Screen - off to left hand side. I cannot center it.
AMIGA - 640x256 - No fuzziness under cursor
640x512 - Interlace is badly distorted
MONITOR Reports - H. 37.58 KHz V. 59.74 Hz Pixel Clock. 40.12 MHz Resolution. 800x600

Option 10 - RGBHV_800x600@60Hz_RGB_576i50_No_Scaling:
Screen - off to left hand side. I cannot center it.
AMIGA - 640x256 - Fuzziness under cursor
640x512 - Interlace is solid no flicker, but fuzziness under cursor
MONITOR Reports - H. 37.58 KHz V. 59.74 Hz Pixel Clock. 40.12 MHz Resolution. 800x600


Some Notes:

Fuzziness under Cursor:

Basically when there is movement there is a slight distortion of the screen. This is one of the main effects to eliminate.

Screen off to the left:

This is the same issue I mention initally when I was missing off the bottom of the screen. There is a border area on the right hand side that I cannot move the screen into. My monitor's setting will move it a bit but not enough. Using the RPi you get to a point when the screen moves but then starts to disappear into the black border.

Interlace Mode:

Some AMIGA games use 'interlace' mode for example when showing Title Screens. The game 'Bansee AGA' does this and if the GBS- mode cannot display this correctly then there might be issues. There is one game 'Darkseed' that completely runs under 'Interlace' mode so that might be unplayable depending on setting.

@Stedy IC2 Registers:

The attached screen shot goes from Option 6 down to Option 10. Sorry I have not found how to copy/paste the text (using Bitvise FTP).

Back to 'normal' GBS- firmware:

Blacks seem to be a bit washed out maybe?
The scrolling seems a bit jerky (using Risky Woods game to test).
MONITOR Reports - H. 48.37 KHz V. 60.01 Hz Pixel Clock. 65.04 MHz Resolution. 1024x768600

Here are my monitor resolutions:

Look up table timing
<<Analog>>
640 x 350 @ 70Hz, 31.5kHz
640 x 480 @ 60Hz, 31.5kHz
640 x 480 @ 67Hz, 35.0kHz
640 x 480 @ 75Hz, 37.5kHz
640 x 480 @ 72Hz, 37.9kHz
640 x 480 @ 85Hz, 43.27kHz
720 x 400 @ 70Hz, 31.5kHz
800 x 600 @ 56Hz, 35.1kHz
800 x 600 @ 60Hz, 37.9kHz
800 x 600 @ 75Hz, 46.9kHz
800 x 600 @ 72Hz, 48.1kHz
800 x 600 @ 85Hz, 53.7kHz
832 x 624 @ 75Hz, 49.7kHz
1024 x 768 @ 60Hz, 48.4kHz
1024 x 768 @ 70Hz, 56.5kHz
1024 x 768 @ 72Hz, 58.1kHz
1024 x 768 @ 75Hz, 60.0kHz
1024 x 768 @ 85Hz, 68.67kHz
1280 x 1024 @ 60Hz, 63.4kHz
1280 x 1024 @ 75Hz, 79.97kHz
1280x720 @ 60Hz, 45kHz (HDTV)

[Solo761]

I finally got to try this today and I must say I'm amazed by the upgrade. For me biggest problem was distortion around moving objects (like arrow in Workbench) and blurring on objects in motion.



I tried original settings, not 0.2, if that matters for i2cdump. Both are from A600.

Workbench - PAL HighRes dump

Value 0x00 written, readback matched
     0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  a  b  c  d  e  f    0123456789abcdef
00: a7 00 00 00 40 10 af e1 04 25 c7 a3 1a 01 e1 00    ?...@????%?????.
10: 30 0c 18 00 00 10 06 b3 06 7c 00 3f 01 00 00 00    0??..????|.??...
20: 00 00 04 01 00 3c 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 01    ..??.<........??

Soccer Kid - in game dump

Value 0x00 written, readback matched
     0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  a  b  c  d  e  f    0123456789abcdef
00: a7 00 00 00 40 10 af e1 04 25 c3 a3 1a 01 e1 00    ?...@????%?????.
10: 30 4c 15 00 00 10 06 b3 06 7c 00 3f 01 00 00 00    0L?..????|.??...
20: 00 00 00 01 00 3c 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 00    ...?.<........?.

Soccer Kid had some interesting glitches on few screens. Like Crysalis splash screen. I think this is the same interlaced issue as Higgy mentions, as this screen looks more high res then the rest of the game.

@Higgy

I used output redirection and got them that way from rPi.

just add > dump1.txt after the command, like this

sudo i2cset -y -r 1 0x17 0xf0 0x00 b && sudo i2cdump -y -r 0-0x2f 1 0x17 b > dump1.txt

Any output will be saved to txt file. After this I just copied them to boot folder (/boot), turned rPi off, took out SD card, put it in card reader and files were on boot partition that is visible in windows. Of course, you can FTP files instead of copying them, but in my current setup I can't have all devices in network so SD thing was easier.

[jbenam]

Got my GBS-8200, grabbed some resistors (missing the 75ohm one though) and a PSU and I should be able to test it tonight.

I hope that I'll also be able to find some wires to connect my Pi to it!

[Stedy]

@Higgy, Solo761

Thanks for the register dump.

On both reports, the TVIA-5725 device decodes PAL video, albeit with a different number of active lines. In both instances, it tells me the 3:2 pulldown de-interlacer is used. Need to understand which block affects this.

I've been using the GBS-82XX with the default software (J8 open) and I just send the I2C commands I need. Also tried Dooklink's settings, the screen was shifted to the left and the brightness/contrast was wrong.

Just a thought, could try Composite video to the Csync pin, see if it correct the left shift.

Using the standard software, what sharpness setting do you guys use?
I use setting 3, it looks Ok, the default of 5 adds some distortion around Icons.

I use Xming on my PC to control the Raspberry Pi and Filezilla for FTP transfers.

Off work now until 5th January, plenty of time to play

[Solo761]

I switch between 3 and 5, 3 is a bit too blurry, and 5 makes additional distortion, as you say. Although I don't use it that much with original firmware. Distortion it makes with in workbench and blurring in games bothers me too much.
That's what impressed me the most with this rPi setup, both are gone. If it could be made to work like this without rPi this would be great solution for gaming.




If there'll ever be some flashable standalone firmware for it, something like gotek firmware I'd suggest adding splash screen on first boot with message that says if you pay more than cca $25, which is cca mean price on ebay, you've been scammed. Or else there'll be profiteering leeches same as with gotek. This message might make them think a bit. Or release it under some kind of license that would prevent things like that happening. I guess that message could be easily hex edited with blanks.

[jbenam]

Originally Posted by Solo761

If there'll ever be some flashable standalone firmware for it, something like gotek firmware I'd suggest adding splash screen on first boot with message that says if you pay more than cca $25, which is cca mean price on ebay, you've been scammed. Or else there'll be profiteering leeches same as with gotek. This message might make them think a bit. Or release it under some kind of license that would prevent things like that happening. I guess that message could be easily hex edited with blanks.

This SO much. I can't stand all the profiteering which goes on in the retro-scene at the moment. The Gotek situation is unbelievable.

Most leechers don't really have any in-depth technical knowledge (except basic one, required for the initial flashing and/or installation) and as such wouldn't be able to edit a firmware file with a splash screen in it (maybe also hide some checksum check in the code for additional points ).

[amigappc]

Well, if someone wants to investigate a bit, he will find info how to flash Gotek himself. How cam we blame people who are seling preflashed units for ridiculous prices, it there are people who are ready to pay it?

[jbenam]

Originally Posted by amigappc

Well, if someone wants to investigate a bit, he will find info how to flash Gotek himself. How cam we blame people who are seling preflashed units for ridiculous prices, it there are people who are ready to pay it?

I wouldn't normally care if it wasn't for the fact that the people who have done the real work, for free nonetheless, won't be seeing a penny of the money the seller will get.

Most people aren't just that technically skilled and would like to buy a premade solution, as they don't know the real cost of the "operation" involved nor they can understand enough of what is being done to be able to put a price on it.

Which, is perfectly fine - the problem is that they shouldn't charge more than £5-£10 as they're usually things which don't require a particular amount of skill or time to do.

If you're putting a warning on the "final item" they won't be able to charge an extortionary amount of money for such a simple operation. It's something you have to do to keep some dishonest people in check, sadly enough.

Look at the Gotek's Amiga firmware creator - he has pretty much dropped all the work on it because of all the profiteers reselling his work. I'd do the same, actually!

Anyway this is off-topic

[amigappc]

I know, and I agree. I suggested to him on numerous websites to open Paypal donation channel which would cover expenses of new firmware development. At least he has the fame, and we all know his name. Enough off-topic for me.

[Solo761]

Still a bit off topic, from what I understood problem was something about French laws that says he need to register as entrepreneur to be able to receive money via donations. Or something like that.

IMO, it's either some message that would prevent people from leeching of off it. There are gotek's for 80€ on ebay, I wouldn't be surprised if it comes to standalone firmware GBS's would probably go for 150€. I've seen this current GBS packed in plastic case and marketed as Amiga flicker fixer go for 70-80€. I guess it's far from standalone firmware, but it wouldn't hurt to this decided and implemented before any usable alpha/beta versions are released to public.
I'm not in law business , but maybe there is a some license that permits private use but prohibits selling. If it's released under this license we could report ebay sellers that would sell it.

I wouldn't even say that there are a lot of people who are buying preflashed goteks because it's easier for them. I would assume majority of them don't even know it's free to download and flash themselves. There, now I'm done with off topic .

[jbenam]

Hi guys, need some help here - I'm building the GBS cable using the supplied header.

I've wired it up like this:

GBS - AMIGA

RED -> 3
GREEN -> 4
BLUE -> 5
GREY -> NC
YELLOW -> 1kOhm -> 10
BLACK -> 16, 17, 18, 19, 20

Is that correct? (I can't try until tonight at home and I don't have a soldering iron there, so I want to get this right!)

I'm not really sure on the Grey/Yellow cable... Grey is marked "S" on the board (Sync?) while the Yellow one is marked "VS" (Vertical Sync?).

Thanks!

[Solo761]

This is how I made mine

http://i.imgur.com/bZHHHza.jpg

Plus 680 Ohm resistor that I added on sync line few days ago (grey line in the picture).

[jbenam]

Originally Posted by Solo761

This is how I made mine

http://i.imgur.com/bZHHHza.jpg

Plus 680 Ohm resistor that I added on sync line few days ago (grey line in the picture).

Awesome, thanks. Just fixed it.

I've used an 1K Ohm resistor as adviced by Ian (Stedy) in post #132, as I had only that kind around!

Now if only I had some wire laying around I could build the jumper wires for the Pi as well

[Solo761]

I had jumpers somewhere but I couldn't find them. In the end I used an old fan connector, soldered together ends of two of its wires and improvised it that way .

[jbenam]

Finally have my GBS-8200 up and running - I expected worse, truth to be told.

Can't get i2cset to work. It complains about a non-existing i2c device.

Got an error while installing i2c-tools, so that might explain it - sadly enough I don't have time to play with it now, so that will probably have to wait until I'm back in Italy.

[Stedy]

@jbenam

What Raspberry Pi do you have?
I have a Model B with 256 MB or RAM, which is a Rev 1. This uses I2C interface 0, not 1, hence the default scripts did not work.

1K will be fine for the Sync signal, maximum would be 1K8, minimum 560 ohms.

@Solo761, Amigappc & Jbenam

Your off-topic conversation, has made me think. I was surprised at the 2x markup on an Amiga flashed Gotek drive! I'm not averse to people making money from the Amiga scene, I do make a little bit myself. The adaptors I sell are simple and of you have the knowhow, easily replicated. I market the plug-in convenience and add 20% on my total costs for the selling price. The money made funds the next batch or two and other designs/projects, of which a few are in the pipeline.

Trying to make sure a software update is not exploited for a high gain is difficult. I estimated this project to be about 40 hours work, I'm 10 hours in so far. I do the work for free, if any money is made, it would be used to finance other projects.

I can easily create a hardware plug-in module, that allows the custom settings to be sent to the TVIA-5725, leaving the existing OSD menu but making the tweaks for Amiga modes. To be really nasty, I release it using a closed source, code locked, secured, microcontroller to stop clones. This is viable but I will release all design information and software changes I define under my usual Creative Commons license, so that others can learn from and improve upon it. A small Arduino board is my current, open, accessible, option.

For the Amiga the firmware will need to know if the source is 240/288p or 480/576i and act accordingly with the de-interlacer, 3D comb filter, motion compensation, bob and weave and the scaling functions. With the SNES/Megadrive etc they only supported 240/288p, the Amiga does interlace.

I know the basics of what to read out of the device to control this, perfecting the control block settings involves reading the manuals and some experimentation.

Once I get over my cold, I'll get back to the workshop and see how much theory I can put into practice.

Ian

[amigappc]

Author deserves to be honoured for his work. If Gonbes cost 30$ and you can make it work as real scandoubler for 10 - 15$ more, i think everyone will be willing to pay. But if it will cost 100$ with that mod, that will not be very popular.
The problem with Gotek is that author gave it all public at first, and started complaining when he realized others are making money from his work. Now he did worst thing for the community, he stopped developing firmware further and didnt release code open source. It will not stop others exploiting his work, but it will stop us, regular users from getting really good product.

[jbenam]

Originally Posted by Stedy

@jbenam

What Raspberry Pi do you have?
I have a Model B with 256 MB or RAM, which is a Rev 1. This uses I2C interface 0, not 1, hence the default scripts did not work.

1K will be fine for the Sync signal, maximum would be 1K8, minimum 560 ohms.

Model B+. I looked into /dev/, and I didn't have interface 0 either. I suppose something got really borked when installing the i2c-tools package.

I'll have some time during Xmas to play with it, I still have to try dooklink's gbs-control as well!

Originally Posted by Stedy

@Solo761, Amigappc & Jbenam

Your off-topic conversation, has made me think. I was surprised at the 2x markup on an Amiga flashed Gotek drive! I'm not averse to people making money from the Amiga scene, I do make a little bit myself. The adaptors I sell are simple and of you have the knowhow, easily replicated. I market the plug-in convenience and add 20% on my total costs for the selling price. The money made funds the next batch or two and other designs/projects, of which a few are in the pipeline.

Trying to make sure a software update is not exploited for a high gain is difficult. I estimated this project to be about 40 hours work, I'm 10 hours in so far. I do the work for free, if any money is made, it would be used to finance other projects.

I can easily create a hardware plug-in module, that allows the custom settings to be sent to the TVIA-5725, leaving the existing OSD menu but making the tweaks for Amiga modes. To be really nasty, I release it using a closed source, code locked, secured, microcontroller to stop clones. This is viable but I will release all design information and software changes I define under my usual Creative Commons license, so that others can learn from and improve upon it. A small Arduino board is my current, open, accessible, option.

Exactly, you spend a lot of time creating awesome things for the Amiga community, and if there's some money to be made from it, you should be the one to get it.

Especially if it goes back into other projects I've noticed the GBS has a splash screen with some chinese characters when you turn it on (not really sure if it also happens in other cases), maybe you can change that with a copyright screen and some disclaimer?

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by jbenam

I've noticed the GBS has a splash screen with some chinese characters when you turn it on (not really sure if it also happens in other cases), maybe you can change that with a copyright screen and some disclaimer?

Maybe that is their copyright screen you are writing over

[jbenam]

Originally Posted by kipper2k

Maybe that is their copyright screen you are writing over

...Which is unreadable by most of the world

Okay, let's just add a little bit of text under it then