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Old 01 December 2011, 11:37   #1
Mr B
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ACT Apollo 1240? Not working, worth it still?

The identification seams straightforward, but the guy who has it seams not to know for sure. I went of pictures in the Amiga Hardware Database, and it feels right.

This is sold as none working, and well, i cant imagine it should work, no clock crystal. But is there anything else that i'm to blind to see?
Seeing as it's equipped with MACH131, it should be possible to make it a 68060, (i think?) and as it's sold as broken it's not that expensive, which gives me something to practice on.
If i manage to get hold of it, i might want to try and add a second memory socket, as i see they come in both flavors, but i'd say thats after i tried to get it running. I got a bag om memory, but not that sure i got any that actually still work, which could be an issue.

I'm not even ashamed about trying to leech of other peoples knowledge, please jump in, and share yours.
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Old 01 December 2011, 12:12   #2
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I can`t help but if you work on that card, remove/replace the battery/accumulator (seems it is still the original).
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Old 01 December 2011, 12:27   #3
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I will, when it arrives. If it does.
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Old 01 December 2011, 12:37   #4
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You will need a 50mhz 14Pin DIL Crystal to run the 040 @25mhz and you should really fit a Heatsink/Fan as they run hot.

I also suggest removing that battery, you can replace with a coin type if you still want to use the clock. Have a look around the boards for more info as you'll need to do a hack to stop it trying to charge.

Now if the card does not boot, the first thing to do is remove and clean out the mach sockets/chips. Then you could check for dry solder joints. I don't think the bettery has leaked but if there is any corrosion on the jumpers/IC's near by you need to clean that off with lemon juice or distilled vinegar, rinse and clean with IPA.

Good luck.

Steve.
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Old 01 December 2011, 12:48   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fitzsteve View Post
You will need a 50mhz 14Pin DIL Crystal to run the 040 @25mhz and you should really fit a Heatsink/Fan as they run hot.
Please tell me thats a typo. Your referring to the 4 pin package left from the battery, right? Thats pretty much the only thing i already know i need, on the other hand they aren't that hard to find, or expensive.

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I also suggest removing that battery, you can replace with a coin type if you still want to use the clock. Have a look around the boards for more info as you'll need to do a hack to stop it trying to charge.
I haven't thought much about that. I was planing to add a battery"cup" holder, and leave it at that, but i should perhaps just stick a bit of cable on it, and a rechargeable unit instead. First, it has to work, and it should do that without battery. :- )

Thank you for the tip on cleaning. I've read a few of the threads on here about cards that needed a fair bit of restoration, i'm pretty sure that amount of work wont be needed, and if it is, i sure ain't the one to do it. But splashing a bit of acidic vinegar / lemon-juice on it, and rinse it of to stop the problem from getting worse, i should manage.
Thanks.
B!
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Old 01 December 2011, 13:25   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr B View Post
Please tell me thats a typo. Your referring to the 4 pin package left from the battery, right? Thats pretty much the only thing i already know i need, on the other hand they aren't that hard to find, or expensive.
No, it's not a typo - I'm not sure why the 'Full Can' package is called 14pin DIL, I'm sure someone will enlighten us but yes, it only has four legs

http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/...x.php?cPath=45

You can see some of the different crystal packages available on Amigakit's site, however not the one you need...

Steve.
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Old 01 December 2011, 13:39   #7
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No, it's not a typo - I'm not sure why the 'Full Can' package is called 14pin DIL, I'm sure someone will enlighten us
It fits in exactly the same footprint as the corners of a 14 pin DIL chip.
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Old 01 December 2011, 14:21   #8
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No wonder why people who work with electronics all day are a bit... strange.

The 28MHz one should be close enough for the 25MHz CPU, i guess, but ELFA has a 25MHz part, and it's cheaper. And i should be able to go and pick one up. I think. (It's within driving distance. But at that rate it's cheaper to buy one from AmigaKit again. Fuel isn't cheap anymore... :- ( ) I need to verify that voltages and such is right i suppose, but i think they are from glancing over it.

Anyway, this first glance thread was pretty much just to confirm that "everything else" seams to be there, and that most looks like it's in order. I'll try and get the card cheap, as "my" bargain PPC turned out to be broken, and to expensive for a broken part.

Thank you all for your input.
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Old 01 December 2011, 14:32   #9
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ok ill give you a list off whats missing/wrong from what i can see,

there is no oscillator,
the jumpers are missing,
the boot rom is in inserted in the socket incorrectly(eeprom starts at pin 1 downwards)


if you convert it to a 1260 you will need,

an 060,(xc68060rc50,mc6860rc50 etc)
the apollo 1260 eeprom,
a 3.3 volt regulator board.
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Old 01 December 2011, 14:40   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roy bates View Post
the boot rom is in inserted in the socket incorrectly(eeprom starts at pin 1 downwards)
Thats not always true, take the A1200 Kickstart ROM sockets.
The ROM's dont go in pin 1 of the socket.

It depends on which type of chip is used.
I think you will find its actually correct.
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Old 01 December 2011, 14:49   #11
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Quote:
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Thats not always true, take the A1200 Kickstart ROM sockets.
The ROM's dont go in pin 1 of the socket.

It depends on which type of chip is used.
I think you will find its actually correct.




ooops.your right.what was i thinking?!?thanks fol,i should of known better.
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Old 01 December 2011, 15:22   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr B View Post

The 28MHz one should be close enough for the 25MHz CPU, i guess, but ELFA has a 25MHz part, and it's cheaper. And i should be able to go and pick one up. I think. (It's within driving distance. But at that rate it's cheaper to buy one from AmigaKit again. Fuel isn't cheap anymore... :- ( ) I need to verify that voltages and such is right i suppose, but i think they are from glancing over it!
In fact the Apollo clock speed for 040CPU's is halved so you will need a 50mhz Crystal to run at 25mhz, 80mhz Crystal for 40mhz, etc.
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Old 01 December 2011, 15:47   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roy bates View Post
the jumpers are missing,
These i've actually notised my self, and didn't really list, as i didn't see them as "missing stuff" i got loads of jumpers. I'll have to try and find a manual for the actual positions, which might be harder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FOL View Post
I think you will find its actually correct.
Just looking on pictures of the net, it looks like the chip is seated the right way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fitzsteve View Post
In fact the Apollo clock speed for 040CPU's is halved so you will need a 50mhz Crystal to run at 25mhz, 80mhz Crystal for 40mhz, etc.
Again, looks like your right.

Again. Thank you everyone for your input.
B!
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Old 02 December 2011, 00:41   #14
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@MrB

Apollo 1240/1260 manual scanned a while ago here:
http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/download...240_Manual.pdf

The first two pictures of the Apollo 040 on amiga-hardware.com are of my card.

Ian

Last edited by Stedy; 02 December 2011 at 00:42. Reason: typo
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Old 02 December 2011, 01:05   #15
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Neat. Manual secured.

Yours is the one with white memory sockets front and back, and fan on a loooooong cable?
Am i right when i'm going by the assumption that it's just a matter of tacking on the second memory socket, or do you need more hardware then that?
B!
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Old 02 December 2011, 10:32   #16
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the reason they dident ship with a second simm socket is they wont fit back into a 1200,
(this is a choice you have to make when towering it normaly)as the second socket is pointing away from the case.

hope that helps.
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Old 02 December 2011, 12:02   #17
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Oh, the memory stick sticks out so much it gets in the way? Might just add it anyway, and not use it. After all, my A1200 is still a desktop, and will remain that way. But who knows if it's going to be my last and only A1200, or if i'll be the last owner of the apollo...
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Old 02 December 2011, 12:39   #18
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Oh, the memory stick sticks out so much it gets in the way? Might just add it anyway, and not use it. After all, my A1200 is still a desktop, and will remain that way. But who knows if it's going to be my last and only A1200, or if i'll be the last owner of the apollo...
B!


the reason im telling you this is because even if you add the simm socket ,the socket on its own will stop the card from deing used in a desktop case(with the socket empty).


sit the simm socket in the apollo dry(no solder) you will see what i mean,to be more clear the socket points in the opposite direction.(obviosly if you solder it on there is no going back)

Last edited by roy bates; 02 December 2011 at 12:44.
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Old 02 December 2011, 13:09   #19
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The socket alone adds more height then the 68040 & cooler/fan? I guess it could be fanles only to fit in a desktop version as well, due to height restrictions. Oh well. Thanks for the heads up. I'll see what i'll end up doing.
B!
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Old 02 December 2011, 14:06   #20
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The socket alone adds more height then the 68040 & cooler/fan? I guess it could be fanles only to fit in a desktop version as well, due to height restrictions. Oh well. Thanks for the heads up. I'll see what i'll end up doing.
B!


sorry about this but you cant use this without the fan and heatsink,please let me explain.

the fan and cooler will be ok in the desktop case,as its in a spot where theres a bit of room,plus you cant really use an 040 card without it,it generates too much heat.(you will run the risk of killing the cpu).

the second simm socket on these cards is a different kettle of fish,when fitted.its at the bottom of the apex of the 1200 keyboard(pointing in towards the keyboard at 45 degrees),and as you know theres no room there as it is,if you see what i mean.
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