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Old 01 September 2008, 22:10   #41
chiark
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good work! I did mine, and was chuffed that it worked

You did a better job of getting them off than I did - I damaged a pad using a soldering iron to try and get the caps off. A tip I found after was to just twist the caps off, as that makes it easier to clean up!
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Old 02 September 2008, 01:07   #42
essence25
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good work! I did mine, and was chuffed that it worked

You did a better job of getting them off than I did - I damaged a pad using a soldering iron to try and get the caps off. A tip I found after was to just twist the caps off, as that makes it easier to clean up!
Thanks,

Well what you do is gently twist them using a small plier then using your hand continue twisting back and forth very careful. Once they come off then drop a bit of flux over the remaining pad and pin and with desoldering braid and a temp of 200(c) you remove each remaining pin & solder which sticks to the desolder braid and leave a clean pad. Then with paper towel you wipe off the soldering flux immediately. It leaves a nice clean factory like pad. The important part is the temp (200c) and bathing of the pin in flux (that cleans and allowes the corroded solder to melt again). Also clean everything because as you squeeze the caps they will leak a bit if they are not completely dry.

If one has a proper SMD rework station the twisting part does not apply. If one uses the twist method it has to be done with super care and feel, not just blindly twist caps off. None of this should be attempted without a temp controller soldering iron. Also after further investigation I found a trace that has been corroded and disconnected C102B from the board. So even though my accelerator looks like new it can still have damage from leaking caps. I jumped the connection with a thin electrical wire so all looking good. It looked perfect but the multimeter was showing a open connection.
Always test the board vias etc..
Easy to fix since the pin ties to ground.

Its funny how I just got into the Amiga system I'm already fixing the board at component level but technically I dont know sht about the OS and its tricks. But I have you guys... ;-) for when I get to that.

Is there anything that an A4000 cannot do/run that the A1200 can?

Last edited by essence25; 02 September 2008 at 03:34.
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Old 02 September 2008, 01:12   #43
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@essence25

Looks like you're doing a good job there. That's going to be my next project as I didn't do my processor board when I did my sound repair. I was just so pleased to get back normal sound and have been too busy playing since

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Old 02 September 2008, 09:59   #44
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Er, by default the 4000 doesn't have a clock port for clock port style expansions... And I think the IDE interface is subtly different although I'm probably wrong on that.

Other than that, can't think of anything!
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Old 03 September 2008, 19:30   #45
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Good work on the A4000 boards everyone.
Looks like the UK needs an Amiga rework shop - come on Amigakit you must know someone?

I have two boards that need the rework can anyone recommend a place in the London area (I'm in the UK) or will I have to send them to Amiga Centre France?
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Old 03 September 2008, 20:01   #46
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I think you guys already have the guys, but time is a rare commodity this days.

If Z or Stedy just have enough time and want to run an UK Amiga Repair Centre...

I'm thinking in do the same on this side of the pond.
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Old 03 September 2008, 20:41   #47
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Indeed - I think a community led repair centre could work quite well, as long as it isn't open to abuse...
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Old 03 September 2008, 20:44   #48
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The problem is time - I can't speak for the others but it's one of the things I have very little to spare of

It took me a whole afternoon just to strip my 4000 down and replace 5 of the capacitors. My intention is to do the rest at sometime but I keep putting it off because it's going to take me another whole afternoon to do the rest

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Old 03 September 2008, 21:01   #49
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indeed. and that is my big problem!
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Old 04 September 2008, 13:15   #50
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Hmmm


You guys are starting ideas in my head.......

TC
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Old 04 September 2008, 14:24   #51
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Hmmm


You guys are starting ideas in my head.......

TC
Of what???

How to enjoy yourselves on a Sunday afternoon

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Old 04 October 2008, 12:46   #52
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I love the fact that you guys in the UK have the shops and we in Australia have the repair Centre and no shops

Don't these guys still repair in the UK??
www.analogic.co.uk
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Old 06 October 2008, 08:54   #53
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"the shops"?

Well, I suppose there's "the shop"...

Analogic used to do repairs - I've mailed them a couple of times about a couple of things but never got a reply.

Perhaps we should persuade Anthony Hoffman to emigrate to the UK? (Like that's an attractive proposition to anyone!)
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Old 09 October 2008, 21:14   #54
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Just thinking. We have Indivision AGA. We have FastATA. Keyboard adaptors, connectors mounted inside, over some chips, and from then the previous port which have been used can be dismissed. Is it impossible or even hard to do, to create a new audio pre-amp circuitry? If the original circuits can be deactivated (like the 68020 in the A1200 after inserting a turbo board) It would be more easier, for everyone.
Me also have no experience to replace SMD capacitors, but would like to use my board as did in the past. And okay, many users here did by themself, but I don't want to fail, and noone in the circle of 200 km can help me out....
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Old 09 October 2008, 22:42   #55
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I'm sending my A4000 to Anthony in NZ as I don't want to risk wrecking it. The price is only £50 which I think is very reasonable.
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Old 31 July 2009, 09:10   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by essence25 View Post
Thanks,

The important part is the temp (200c) and bathing of the pin in flux (that cleans and allows the corroded solder to melt again).

You sure about that ? the temp depends on the type of tip you are using, most solder melts at 180-200 deg c. If using a small pointed tip My favorite! I use around 350 deg c on the iron. Big chunky tips i use around 250 - 275 deg c. its all about heat retention in the tips. Also a good no clean flux is great, the stuff from maplins is poo and just sticks to everything, goes nice and brown,makes a nice mess on the board that takes ages to clean off. I call it treacle flux. I use a no clean flux paste that i got cheap from ebay. I was suspect at first, but its great stuff. It comes in a tub with a red top, and has ADA written on the top. Also is does not eat away the copper if you leave it on the board. Like some other plumber fluxes.
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Old 31 July 2009, 10:44   #57
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gah, solder pads are annoying. Can't seem to budge this slight bit of corrosion on the outer edge of the pad. It's smooth, just slightly discoloured... bloody leaky caps! Better than dealing with a barrel battery tho
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Old 31 July 2009, 11:57   #58
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More flux, more heat. And a gentle touch!
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Old 31 July 2009, 12:21   #59
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More flux, more heat. And a gentle touch!
to the woman or the board? whacking it back upto 350oC horroring now

edit: 2 pads still slightly marked, will go home and clean them later. all the solder is off. Whacked two other of the same caps off as well, may as well do all 5

Last edited by Paul_s; 31 July 2009 at 12:33.
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Old 06 October 2011, 15:55   #60
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Thanks for this guys! Was a bit confused at the first posts as davideo said he'd fix it but didn't say what he'd do to fix it, but it became clear later on in the thread.

I got the exact same problem description for my A1700 3 days ago... sad to get the first ever caps problem in my Amiga collection, but glad to know it's this easy to fix
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