Amiga repair in UK or Ireland?

TenLeftFingers · 28 May 2015, 10:30

Hi,

My A1200 is running pretty well at the moment with the exception that I can only one of the audio channels is outputting and if I touch or jiggle the video output (the yellow one) I lose the picture until I jiggle it again.

I also want to add an ACA accellerator to it in the future which I believe will require timing fixes for a 1.D0 board. I'd like to get the machine recapped too and I've already purchased the replacement capacitors.

Does anyone in the UK or Ireland still offer this kind of service? Amigakit seem to have narrowed their offerings.

I've been in touch with two guys that used to do them. One doesn't seem to be active any more and the other (RetroGamezMods) is based in Sweden which would be a challenge posting from Ireland. Not only the cost, but I'm afraid the distance increases the risk of damage.

Thanks for any info.

Ten

DonAmiga · 28 May 2015, 10:55

Have you pm'd or emailed Amigakit to ask if they would do the work?

TenLeftFingers · 28 May 2015, 13:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonAmiga

Have you pm'd or emailed Amigakit to ask if they would do the work?

No, I just browsed their listings - good idea, I've just shot them an email. Thank you.

I did find one person in Ireland who repaired some Amigas about twenty years ago. He's quoting me EUR 50 / GBP 35.70 per hour. But given he says that it's "not really what I do" anymore, it might take him a few hours. He also seems hesitant about the capacitors on old machines and said he might have to leave the leg of a capacitor in place and solder the new one on to it, depending on what solder was used on the board. Maybe he really knows what he's talking about and just informing me but it makes me a little uncomfortable.

ajk · 28 May 2015, 13:50

Ehh, that offer does not sound good. Replacing SMD capacitors is simple and you certainly should not leave any remnants of the old ones in there.

supaduper · 28 May 2015, 14:06

Actually I will back the guy up on the leave a leg in remark as the through caps he talking about are quite notorious for their steadfastness

But what he is quoting I am sure someone will help on here for a drink

TenLeftFingers · 28 May 2015, 14:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonAmiga

Have you pm'd or emailed Amigakit to ask if they would do the work?

They've got back to me, they still do it on a regular basis and I trust them so they are top of my list at the moment.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajk

Ehh, that offer does not sound good. Replacing SMD capacitors is simple and you certainly should not leave any remnants of the old ones in there.

My gut would agree with this. I think I'll give him a wide berth. He might be brilliant, who knows - but I can't get any references for him.

Quote:

Originally Posted by supaduper

Actually I will back the guy up on the leave a leg in remark as the through caps he talking about are quite notorious for their steadfastness

But what he is quoting I am sure someone will help on here for a drink

Well, that would be even better since I haven't been working for the last few weeks and I'm not sure when I'll be back. Also a few pints with an Amiga user/fixer would also be great

I'll be in Chesterfield around August/September if anyone feels they could do this job for a small-ish amount of money (under 50?) and a few pints in the place of their choosing!

ElectroBlaster · 01 June 2015, 01:58

Jump over to Amibay and look for two guys who are based in the UK:

Bebek

roy_bates

I can confirm these two guys do 100% good work regarding re-caps.

Bebek re-capped a pair of A1200 boards and roy_bates replaced the joystick ports and sacked a leaking battery on an A500+ for me.

kipper2k · 01 June 2015, 02:14

Caps can be removed completely very easily on Amigas with flux and chipquik or other derivitive. It normally takes about 10 seconds to remove a through hole capacitor, and surface ones a little faster. If you have the tools it is very easy.

The only components that are hard to remove are the ones that have been hit with corrosion from a leaking battery, they suck!

TenLeftFingers · 01 June 2015, 16:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by ElectroBlaster

Jump over to Amibay and look for two guys who are based in the UK:

Bebek

roy_bates

I can confirm these two guys do 100% good work regarding re-caps.

Bebek re-capped a pair of A1200 boards and roy_bates replaced the joystick ports and sacked a leaking battery on an A500+ for me.

Thanks ElectroBlaster, I'll check them out. I'll be visiting family in Derbyshire this year and AmiKit are a long drive from there so hopefully one of those guys will be closer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kipper2k

Caps can be removed completely very easily on Amigas with flux and chipquik or other derivitive. It normally takes about 10 seconds to remove a through hole capacitor, and surface ones a little faster. If you have the tools it is very easy.

The only components that are hard to remove are the ones that have been hit with corrosion from a leaking battery, they suck!

kipper2k, I actually did electronics in college about twenty years ago and wasn't too bad with a soldering iron - but I have no kit and not as much confidence so I think with something this precious to me I should probably get someone to do it.

Daedalus · 03 June 2015, 14:26

Aww, I'd do if for you if I was still in Ireland...

TenLeftFingers · 04 June 2015, 21:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daedalus

Aww, I'd do if for you if I was still in Ireland...

Ah, that'd be deadly. Oh well, a nice sentiment none the less, thank you!

Mr.Flibble · 05 June 2015, 08:43

Bebek will hopefully doing a refurb on my A4000D and A3640 - He's in Dorset though, which would make for quite a drive for you - it's even further than Cardiff for Amigakit...

No idea where Roy is though.

TenLeftFingers · 05 June 2015, 18:15

Thanks for that Mr.Flibble, that's what I was hoping to find out! Maybe I will have to learn some packaging skills then and just send it to AmigaKit. Roy doesn't have space for more work at the moment and I haven't heard back from Bebek. Not to worry, it's running fine at the moment. I just want to be able to put an accellerator in it so I can use some more demanding productivity softawer and it's a 1D0 board which I think needs the timing fix.

TenLeftFingers · 29 September 2015, 20:20

Could I get some feedback on using this item to remove some capacitors for a timing fix? http://www.adverts.ie/other-electron...-rosin/8319809

supaduper · 29 September 2015, 20:35

yes its a cheapo kit, solder wont be the best, and because its 60 watt just don't hold it on the board for more than a few seconds otherwise you will burn stuff

But for removing the caps for the timing fix and some other pcb work it will be fine.

Just put a blob of solder over the the smd capacitor so you bridge both connections then just push it out the way .

TenLeftFingers · 30 September 2015, 08:49

Thanks supaduper. Would a lower wattage be more ideal - say 40? I could ask the seller about options like that.

Sent from Ubuntu Touch using the Forum Browser app

supaduper · 30 September 2015, 09:54

yes 40 watt will be safer but remember for most solder irons its heat and length of time you put on the components, and use plenty of flux to help remove the smd

TenLeftFingers · 30 September 2015, 13:05

Thanks again. I've just looked up flux usage on YouTube and I get the idea.

Daedalus · 02 October 2015, 10:07

That's a terrible iron. I know you're only looking for something basic, but think about getting at least a step up from that one which is really awful to use. For a little more money, have a look at an Antex iron. You'll only need an 18W iron (or a 25W with a fine point if you prefer) but even 40W will be dangerous to have near SMT components, especially with the sort of tip those cheap irons come with.

Also, for small stuff, you'd be better off with the desoldering braid - that suction pump won't do you much good for the small connections, and risks damaging the board.

This is a better place to start off for example: http://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/solder...-kits/7683570/

You have the iron, solder and stand there, and there are many different tips available to suit if you find that it's too big. It'll be much smaller than the one on the iron you linked to however. I would suggest getting some solder paste (http://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/solder-pastes/1849985/) and desoldering braid (http://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/desold...raids/2214914/) at the same time to make everything easy for you.

TenLeftFingers · 02 October 2015, 12:27

You're very good to go to such lengths and find what I need. I've already ordered the other one though. And spending any more would be almost the cost of sending it away to the guy in Ireland.

The guy called me after I ordered and said he'd throw in some other tip sizes for me so I could get back to him and ask for a lower wattage too?

28 May 2015, 10:30	#1
TenLeftFingers Registered User Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Ireland Posts: 800	Amiga repair in UK or Ireland? Hi, My A1200 is running pretty well at the moment with the exception that I can only one of the audio channels is outputting and if I touch or jiggle the video output (the yellow one) I lose the picture until I jiggle it again. I also want to add an ACA accellerator to it in the future which I believe will require timing fixes for a 1.D0 board. I'd like to get the machine recapped too and I've already purchased the replacement capacitors. Does anyone in the UK or Ireland still offer this kind of service? Amigakit seem to have narrowed their offerings. I've been in touch with two guys that used to do them. One doesn't seem to be active any more and the other (RetroGamezMods) is based in Sweden which would be a challenge posting from Ireland. Not only the cost, but I'm afraid the distance increases the risk of damage. Thanks for any info. Ten

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28 May 2015, 10:55	#2
DonAmiga Registered User Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Scotland Posts: 523	Have you pm'd or emailed Amigakit to ask if they would do the work?

28 May 2015, 13:50	#4
ajk Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Location: Helsinki, Finland Posts: 1,341	Ehh, that offer does not sound good. Replacing SMD capacitors is simple and you certainly should not leave any remnants of the old ones in there.

28 May 2015, 14:06	#5
supaduper Registered User Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Krypton Posts: 1,210	Actually I will back the guy up on the leave a leg in remark as the through caps he talking about are quite notorious for their steadfastness But what he is quoting I am sure someone will help on here for a drink

01 June 2015, 01:58	#7
ElectroBlaster Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Exeter, Devon, UK Age: 49 Posts: 1,705	Jump over to Amibay and look for two guys who are based in the UK: Bebek roy_bates I can confirm these two guys do 100% good work regarding re-caps. Bebek re-capped a pair of A1200 boards and roy_bates replaced the joystick ports and sacked a leaking battery on an A500+ for me.

01 June 2015, 02:14	#8
kipper2k Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Thunder Bay, Canada Posts: 4,323	Caps can be removed completely very easily on Amigas with flux and chipquik or other derivitive. It normally takes about 10 seconds to remove a through hole capacitor, and surface ones a little faster. If you have the tools it is very easy. The only components that are hard to remove are the ones that have been hit with corrosion from a leaking battery, they suck!

03 June 2015, 14:26	#10
Daedalus Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Dublin, then Glasgow Posts: 6,334	Aww, I'd do if for you if I was still in Ireland...

05 June 2015, 08:43	#12
Mr.Flibble Registered User Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: UK Posts: 472	Bebek will hopefully doing a refurb on my A4000D and A3640 - He's in Dorset though, which would make for quite a drive for you - it's even further than Cardiff for Amigakit... No idea where Roy is though.

05 June 2015, 18:15	#13
TenLeftFingers Registered User Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Ireland Posts: 800	Thanks for that Mr.Flibble, that's what I was hoping to find out! Maybe I will have to learn some packaging skills then and just send it to AmigaKit. Roy doesn't have space for more work at the moment and I haven't heard back from Bebek. Not to worry, it's running fine at the moment. I just want to be able to put an accellerator in it so I can use some more demanding productivity softawer and it's a 1D0 board which I think needs the timing fix.

29 September 2015, 20:20	#14
TenLeftFingers Registered User Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Ireland Posts: 800	Could I get some feedback on using this item to remove some capacitors for a timing fix? http://www.adverts.ie/other-electron...-rosin/8319809

29 September 2015, 20:35	#15
supaduper Registered User Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Krypton Posts: 1,210	yes its a cheapo kit, solder wont be the best, and because its 60 watt just don't hold it on the board for more than a few seconds otherwise you will burn stuff But for removing the caps for the timing fix and some other pcb work it will be fine. Just put a blob of solder over the the smd capacitor so you bridge both connections then just push it out the way .

30 September 2015, 08:49	#16
TenLeftFingers Registered User Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Ireland Posts: 800	Thanks supaduper. Would a lower wattage be more ideal - say 40? I could ask the seller about options like that. Sent from Ubuntu Touch using the Forum Browser app

30 September 2015, 09:54	#17
supaduper Registered User Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Krypton Posts: 1,210	yes 40 watt will be safer but remember for most solder irons its heat and length of time you put on the components, and use plenty of flux to help remove the smd

30 September 2015, 13:05	#18
TenLeftFingers Registered User Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Ireland Posts: 800	Thanks again. I've just looked up flux usage on YouTube and I get the idea.

02 October 2015, 10:07	#19
Daedalus Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Dublin, then Glasgow Posts: 6,334	That's a terrible iron. I know you're only looking for something basic, but think about getting at least a step up from that one which is really awful to use. For a little more money, have a look at an Antex iron. You'll only need an 18W iron (or a 25W with a fine point if you prefer) but even 40W will be dangerous to have near SMT components, especially with the sort of tip those cheap irons come with. Also, for small stuff, you'd be better off with the desoldering braid - that suction pump won't do you much good for the small connections, and risks damaging the board. This is a better place to start off for example: http://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/solder...-kits/7683570/ You have the iron, solder and stand there, and there are many different tips available to suit if you find that it's too big. It'll be much smaller than the one on the iron you linked to however. I would suggest getting some solder paste (http://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/solder-pastes/1849985/) and desoldering braid (http://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/desold...raids/2214914/) at the same time to make everything easy for you.

02 October 2015, 12:27	#20
TenLeftFingers Registered User Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Ireland Posts: 800	You're very good to go to such lengths and find what I need. I've already ordered the other one though. And spending any more would be almost the cost of sending it away to the guy in Ireland. The guy called me after I ordered and said he'd throw in some other tip sizes for me so I could get back to him and ask for a lower wattage too?

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