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Old 17 November 2016, 08:52   #21
plasmab
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Do you have a source for the washers?


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Old 17 November 2016, 10:18   #22
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Do you have a source for the washers?


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These are a perfect fit, one or two on each mounting post is all that's needed...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-4mm-THI...ar=&hash=item0
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Old 17 November 2016, 14:39   #23
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Originally Posted by wmsteele View Post
If you have any trouble let me know... I've done a fair few.. also contrary to what has been posted 'sometimes' new lasers do need adjusting, have also found that four strategically placed rubber washers (to 'push' the cd unit a fraction higher) can work miracles, as the rubber mounts after 20+ years tend to sit ever so slightly lower. Have also recently found another unit that refused to work for no apparent reason until the connecting cable was swapped (was the last thing I tried, using the unit on another CD32), no visible damage to either end.
If you need to adjust the laser, then its never been setup in the factory correctly.
Other issues, could be spindle motor. Also spindle height.
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Old 17 November 2016, 17:08   #24
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No kit like that so I'll stick it on ebay Thanks for replying.
I would go through the process again and make sure everything is correct.
Do you have a multimeter? It's required to do this kinda stuff.

I would see that the blob of solder was removed properly without removing the solder from the two pads entirely, just the connection, I would check continuity to the ribbon and laser cables in case you damaged it somehow, I would check as FOL suggests that the laser is in fact being emitted, and then I would read wmsteele's advice and the Stedy link to try to calibrate the laser if all that failed. If after that it's still not a go, you might have gotten a dud. Did you use the links I provided to source your laser?
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Old 05 March 2017, 10:10   #25
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Let us know how it goes! Any information added to this thread with other people's experience while doing the swap is greatly appreciated.

It's been 10 days and my CD32 works just great, smooth and silent, a pleasure! I wonder where JOTD is, because I think a load of CD32Load issues with grinding were resolved with this change.
Tried this and unfortunately no joy. Its close but no cigar.
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Old 06 March 2017, 17:21   #26
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Tried this and unfortunately no joy. Its close but no cigar.
Maybe try to explain more of your issue and what is going on? Others might help and/or we might all learn something,
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Old 06 March 2017, 18:00   #27
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Maybe try to explain more of your issue and what is going on? Others might help and/or we might all learn something,

[ Show youtube player ]

And

[ Show youtube player ]

Should sum it up.



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Old 06 March 2017, 18:11   #28
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Well I wouldn't say you blew it up :P I didn't go through an hour of your video now as I don't have the time to watch it now so let me ask a few more Qs.

Was it doing the same before you replaced the part?
Did you check the CD board capacitors?
Did you originally have a KSS-201A or a KSS-210B?

I don't think you need alignment, because I didn't do it either. I only mentioned it at the end as a last resort. Alignment would be needed if you have erratic behavior, but if it doesn't work at all, it's a different problem.
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Old 06 March 2017, 18:36   #29
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I eyeballed the caps. They look fine. I'll do a follow up


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Old 06 March 2017, 18:39   #30
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It was completely dead beforehand not even spinning the disk

This is the old one


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Old 13 March 2017, 17:02   #31
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Replacement Laser Problems

Thank you for the great guide, Akira.

I was able to easily replace my laser with an identical model I purchased on Ebay.
However, my console is still having problems reading discs (audio CDs, and copied and original games).

The original laser would read audio discs without any problems, but refused to read any game discs.
I used the guide to replace the laser with the new one I bought, but the laser is acting very strangely.

It will not read any audio discs or game discs when the system is laying flat.
I've tried using the stock pot settings on the PCB as well as various small adjustments, and still get nothing.

My new laser also makes the annoying "clicking sound" which I realized is the gear slipping when the laser tries to move too far back towards the center of the assembly. My original laser did not make this noise at all.

However, I've found that with some minor adjustments to the pots and when placing the entire console on either its side or its front (standing up), the discs will read most of the time.

I've tried two replacement lasers and they both do the same thing. Clicking and no reading when the console is flat, but will read without clicking when the console is on its side.

Could this be just a laser position/height problem?

I also just found out that by adjusting the PCB pots a bit, my original laser is actually not completely dead and will read some game discs with a bit of effort (and time) while the console is laying flat. It is still not working 100%, however.

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Old 13 March 2017, 17:17   #32
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Have you played with the rubber washers on the CD assembly? Those bolts kind of control how close to the case the laser assembly is.

When my laser started to fail, it started to click.
I didn't touch the potentiometers at all, because this is a complicated task. I hope you recorded the original values using a potentiometer like I suggested, to return the console to "factory state".
Also did you get the exact same model replacement as the one you had originally?

I heard of PS2s needing to be vertical to read, but never CD32s. It might be related to the motor as well, perhaps it needs a clean and lubrication.

these are all guesses I am afraid, perhaps wmsteele can chip in and help. My process was thankfully transparent and the replacement worked right off the bat.
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Old 13 March 2017, 18:01   #33
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Thanks for the suggestions!

I was sure to mark the pots and take some photos to be able to put them back to stock setting.

I will see if I can add some washers or something else to the original rubber ones and see if it helps at all.

The two replacement lasers I have are both the same model as the original stock laser. They are all KSS-210A models.

I did lube up the gears on the laser assembly, but haven't touched anything on the motor yet. I hope it doesn't get that complicated, but we'll see. The discs seem to spin up just fine, that's about all they do well.
 
Old 13 March 2017, 18:07   #34
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Have you played with the rubber washers on the CD assembly? Those bolts kind of control how close to the case the laser assembly is.

When my laser started to fail, it started to click.
I didn't touch the potentiometers at all, because this is a complicated task. I hope you recorded the original values using a potentiometer like I suggested, to return the console to "factory state".
Also did you get the exact same model replacement as the one you had originally?

I could be wrong but the I checked and cd drive shaft is mounted on the same part of the chassis as the lens... so adding rubbers doesnt change the lens distance.. just changes the shock absorption... have a look if you don't believe me.

EDIT: or at least confirm/deny... i may have had beer when i looked.

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Old 14 March 2017, 15:12   #35
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The rubber washers are between the CD lens assembly and the case. Changing anything in that distance changes how far the lens are from the disc/top case.
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Old 14 March 2017, 15:26   #36
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I don't *think* it does. It does change the distance to the case but not the lens. Recheck this.


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Old 14 March 2017, 17:29   #37
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I am talking about distance between the lens and the case, I don't know which other distance you could be referring to. I did this and had to mess with the washers because the lens was too far outside and I had to push it down for it to stop making grinding noises.
Now the lens are leveled with the exit point at the case where they are supposed to be at instead of protruding.

Look at the photos I posted, the CD assembly is all one piece and those screws attach it to the case. Any difference there will mean the whole assembly is closer or further away from the top case. As you said, the shaft, the lens, everything, is mounted on the same p[art, and this part is connected to the case by means of these four screws and the rubber washers. If you over-screw or those washers lose volume, you can be looking at having the whole thing (lens included) being too close to the case and creating issues.

Bunta714: you said "the gear slipping when the laser tries to move too far back towards the center of the assembly". This is a problem I was getting when I decided to replace the lens.
I didn't ask before, but did you check the CD board capacitors are OK? People have had issues with those in the past too.
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Old 14 March 2017, 17:47   #38
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I am talking about distance between the lens and the case, I don't know which other distance you could be referring to. I did this and had to mess with the washers because the lens was too far outside and I had to push it down for it to stop making grinding noises.
Now the lens are leveled with the exit point at the case where they are supposed to be at instead of protruding.

Look at the photos I posted, the CD assembly is all one piece and those screws attach it to the case. Any difference there will mean the whole assembly is closer or further away from the top case. As you said, the shaft, the lens, everything, is mounted on the same p[art, and this part is connected to the case by means of these four screws and the rubber washers. If you over-screw or those washers lose volume, you can be looking at having the whole thing (lens included) being too close to the case and creating issues.

Bunta714: you said "the gear slipping when the laser tries to move too far back towards the center of the assembly". This is a problem I was getting when I decided to replace the lens.
I didn't ask before, but did you check the CD board capacitors are OK? People have had issues with those in the past too.
Yes. I agree that the the distance to the top of the case would change. My thinking (and i keep admitting I may be wrong... just want to clarify everything) is that the distance between the disc and the laser is defined by the distance between the shaft and the lens, rather than the case... because (so far as i could see) the CD was mounted on the top of the drive shaft... not the case. The CD32 case lid just grips the CD rather than moves the disk?

EDIT: Maybe it would be easier for me to demo what i'm thinking on a video.. will do later if i get time.
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Old 14 March 2017, 18:52   #39
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I think you are right about that, but you can also push/lift the platter where the CD spins and change the distance between the disc and lens. Someone in another thread had messed that up and had to play with it.

In any case, distance from lens to disc shouldn't affect reading capability, it could create mechanical issues though (like grinding/damaging disc against case)
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Old 15 March 2017, 16:14   #40
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In any case, distance from lens to disc shouldn't affect reading capability, it could create mechanical issues though (like grinding/damaging disc against case)
This is exactly why I suggested the rubber washers, It will move the laser assembly up slightly, preventing any case grinding / disc damage when the CD is spinning. It wont alter the distance between the CD and the laser, only the distance from the case.
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